DIY: Oil Pan/Sump O-Ring Replacement 2000 XC

Post by **xHeart** » 24 Apr 2020, 05:41

smacknab wrote: ↑23 Apr 2020, 13:44 Anyone know if the process is the same for a m56 transmission? The mating of the oil pan and transmission makes me worry a bit that I don't have the right seals etc

The oil pan and transmission DO NOT exchange fluids therefore no sealant is used or needed between the two. But follow the steps of bolt tightening, including the 2 between transmission and oil pan, for a leak proof assembly.

Post by **smacknab** » 24 Apr 2020, 07:30

xHeart wrote: ↑24 Apr 2020, 05:41
smacknab wrote: ↑23 Apr 2020, 13:44 Anyone know if the process is the same for a m56 transmission? The mating of the oil pan and transmission makes me worry a bit that I don't have the right seals etc
The oil pan and transmission DO NOT exchange fluids therefore no sealant is used or needed between the two. But follow the steps of bolt tightening, including the 2 between transmission and oil pan, for a leak proof assembly.

I didn't see notes for the bolt tightening and my Haynes manual doesn't list the oil pan, should I go inside out like on the same seal cover? Or star pattern like for wheels?

Post by **xHeart** » 24 Apr 2020, 08:20

smacknab wrote: ↑24 Apr 2020, 07:30
xHeart wrote: ↑24 Apr 2020, 05:41
smacknab wrote: ↑23 Apr 2020, 13:44 Anyone know if the process is the same for a m56 transmission? The mating of the oil pan and transmission makes me worry a bit that I don't have the right seals etc
The oil pan and transmission DO NOT exchange fluids therefore no sealant is used or needed between the two. But follow the steps of bolt tightening, including the 2 between transmission and oil pan, for a leak proof assembly.
I didn't see notes for the bolt tightening and my Haynes manual doesn't list the oil pan, should I go inside out like on the same seal cover? Or star pattern like for wheels?

Check on pan alignment every step - till torqued. NO NEED TO RUSH
- Install the four corner bolts at the pan first, finger tight.
- Then the side bolts transmission to oil pan, check alignment and toque these 25Nm.
- Now install all pan bolts, finger tight first, then snug tight to 3Nm.
- TORQUE transmission to oil pan bolt 48Nm (check spec)
- Work pan bolts in pairs starting from the transmission edge - DO NOT TORQUE
- Initial torque pan bolts in pairs to 10Nm starting from transmission edge
- TORQUE pan bolts in pairs to 17Nm (check spec) starting from transmission edge
Hairline alignment shift is OK, you should see some sealant around the pan's mating edge.

If you are reusing the bolts, then, thoroughly clean the threads before installing bolts.

Post by **abscate** » 24 Apr 2020, 10:19

smacknab wrote: ↑24 Apr 2020, 07:30
xHeart wrote: ↑24 Apr 2020, 05:41
smacknab wrote: ↑23 Apr 2020, 13:44 Anyone know if the process is the same for a m56 transmission? The mating of the oil pan and transmission makes me worry a bit that I don't have the right seals etc
The oil pan and transmission DO NOT exchange fluids therefore no sealant is used or needed between the two. But follow the steps of bolt tightening, including the 2 between transmission and oil pan, for a leak proof assembly.
I didn't see notes for the bolt tightening and my Haynes manual doesn't list the oil pan, should I go inside out like on the same seal cover? Or star pattern like for wheels?

Post by **smacknab** » 24 Apr 2020, 11:26

Thanks for the tips guys, just got the pan out. The bolt pattern tips are super helpful.

Do people normally clean the bottom of the block while it's open?

This is my pan, working on cleaning this now

Post by **abscate** » 24 Apr 2020, 18:41

Soak in Simple green and hot water.

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 25 Apr 2020, 15:16

Second the simple green. I soaked mine like that for a couple hours, then scrubbed the crap out of it til it was as clean as I could get it. Looks like that car has used some conventional oil under severe or longer intervals.

Post by **smacknab** » 25 Apr 2020, 21:00

Just finished this job. i did not enjoy it. i took no pleasure from completing it and i'm glad its over.

dsilv006 · Post by **dsilv006** » 07 May 2020, 16:06

I just did this on my 00 XC70, basically the same car. I had to replace the Turbo and the PCV as well and decided to do the pan o rings as i had a oil light on. She starts up perfectly, no leaks but once it's warmed up after about 7 or so minutes the oil pressure light comes on. The dip stick reads full. I suspect maybe the oil pickup is clogged but I'm unsure as I cleaned it thoroughly. I also deep cleaned and even pressure washed the pan so there was very little sludge left. I only get the light once it's warmed up

Any thoughts on what it could be?

Richard99 · Post by **Richard99** » 08 May 2020, 19:41

Would anyone that has done this recommend taking the engine/transmission out if other tasks are needed. Was considering doing a pan reseal, timing belt job, and head gasket/valve stem seals all in one go.

DIY: Oil Pan/Sump O-Ring Replacement 2000 XC

Re: DIY: Oil Pan/Sump O-Ring Replacement 2000 XC