1993 850 Rear Shock Install Nightmare

pcady · Post by **pcady** » 12 Jan 2008, 14:26

While installing new rear shocks on my 93 850, the driver's side lower shock mounting stud sheared off (much to my surprise). Its Saturday and the only mechanics around want nothing to do with attempting a repair. Anyone ever have to do this before?

It is even possible? It doesn't seem to be a part that is easily replaced as it appears to be a special tapered bolt welded into the frame. Even if I get someone to cut it out, what then?

Two of the four total upper mounting bolts sheared as well due no doubt to the low grade bolts I encountered there (probably from the previous monroe/midas/meineke installation). At least the soft metal was easy to drill out and re-tap.

Thanks for any advice!
-pc

pcady · Post by **pcady** » 14 Jan 2008, 15:20

Dealer says its a "rear control arm" at $520, $849 installed!
I'm gonna go cry in my beer....

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Jan 2008, 16:08

The same thing came up over on VSP and I think replacing the delta link was the ultimate resolution there as well. In that case the nut snapped the end of the mounting stud off right at the edge of the shock.

A local junk yard would be a good thing here, push comes to shove you can also get them through erievovo.com. They are made of aluminum and they don't weigh as much as they look like they would. They are bulky when shipped which jacks up the freight cost.

If I read your original post correctly it sounds like the stud sheared off of the mount on the delta link. If that is the case I would just go buy a grade 8 bolt that is the same size and bolt that sucker on through the hole that the original left.

If you do wind up changing the delta link you will need to get a 4 wheel alignment.

...Lee

pcady · Post by **pcady** » 15 Jan 2008, 11:35

Thanks for the advice. I originally thought the bolt method would work but the stud is this weird tapered thing and it became clear that I wasn't going to be able to simply drill it out. Even if I cut it out I couldn't find anything that would replicate the tapered fit so I'd have to save as much of the taper as possible and drill through it so the new bolt/recycled taper combination would replicate the original mount.

What with winter back, no garage and this being our primary transportation, I'm letting the dealer do this one. After all its only money. Lots and lots of only money.

nctlspider · Post by **nctlspider** » 28 Jan 2008, 18:38

pcady,

Can you post pics, that way maybe the collective mind can devise a future plan for others. Did you get it fixed?

pcady · Post by **pcady** » 28 Jan 2008, 19:19

Sure. I'll put something together, hopefully tomorrow.

pcady · Post by **pcady** » 11 Feb 2008, 11:58

Below shows a pic of the installed part (obviously the shiny part attached to the wheel) and the Figure from the manual showing the entire transverse arm (or control arm as the dealer called it) and how it fits into the rear suspension.

The tapered shock mounting stud would be very difficult to replace by cutting and welding. In my case, the bolt was crossthreaded on the stud by some previous repair and rusted in place such that a 70psi air wrench tore it right off.

Replacing the arm isn't a job I would try unless I had a fully equipped garage.

Expensive moral to the story: Soak those suspension bolts for a day before attempting the remove them even if they look ok.

nctlspider · Post by **nctlspider** » 12 Feb 2008, 15:16

Thanks pcady,

Sorry that was such a painful repair. It took me a minute to find what the part was but now i get it. You actually had the white drawing replaced, its just backwards and not showing the detail of the colored one. I am stumped as to a better fix, so at least i feel aware not to put an air tool on mine and soak it in penetrating oil!

Thanks for the follow up!

Cory

julesr_23 · Post by **julesr_23** » 13 Feb 2008, 15:19

Hey guys, When i went through a similar event involving a tapered bolt's head snapping off, (of course after saying all the 4 letter words in the dictionary) I got a drill bit i use for drilling the wire holes in steel framing studs. since the bit is also tapered (from 1/4'' to 1 1/4'') it seemed like it would be perfect. sure enough it worked like a charm (with allot of lube), followed by a smaller bit to finish the job. so for next time go and pick one up (~6$) and just be careful not to go to deep.
Cheers