Just make sure the solenoid clicks on applying 12 volts.
The nominal ohm spec is 3.7 volts Ohms but it’s an AC device (250 hz) so the DC ohm reading can range up to 10-12 Ohms and it will work fine
If the oil has been kept clean they last a long time
How to tell if Timing Belt Service had ever been done ? Topic is solved
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Re: How to tell if Timing Belt Service had ever been done ?
Empty Nester
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Ohms is a measurement of Resitance
Volts is a measurement of Voltage obviously
Hz is a measurement of frequency
Not sure what's going on here abscate but, anyone with basic electronics/electrical knowledge knows this ? Perhaps you made some typos ?
Last edited by hmsky83 on 09 May 2020, 01:17, edited 1 time in total.
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I reinstalled the solenoid and ran the motor without the timing belt cover on. I noticed two important things hopefully your input will help...
1) Pay attention in the video to the tensioner as it vibrates and moves slightly back and forth ? Is that normal or does that mean the tensioner is bad ?
I'm thinking this car is to be parked until I can get this timing belt either replaced my self or make an appointment. Just gotta make up my mind, I think I'm capable but just need the confidence to do this job, also dont want to regret starting it in the middle of things go wrong. Wish I could find someone and just pay $250 for labor and be done with it.
2) Turns out it's a Contitech belt. Now is that the original belt that came with car or does that mean the car has had the TB changed at least once ?
1) Pay attention in the video to the tensioner as it vibrates and moves slightly back and forth ? Is that normal or does that mean the tensioner is bad ?
I'm thinking this car is to be parked until I can get this timing belt either replaced my self or make an appointment. Just gotta make up my mind, I think I'm capable but just need the confidence to do this job, also dont want to regret starting it in the middle of things go wrong. Wish I could find someone and just pay $250 for labor and be done with it.
2) Turns out it's a Contitech belt. Now is that the original belt that came with car or does that mean the car has had the TB changed at least once ?
Last edited by hmsky83 on 09 May 2020, 08:13, edited 4 times in total.
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Perfectly normal motion on the tensioner, better than most. Better than all three of my cars
I believe that the original belt Is not Conti, so I think it’s confident to say you have had a belt change
Something Is really close to that VVT hub though .
Fixed resistance mistake above, resistance is futile.
I believe that the original belt Is not Conti, so I think it’s confident to say you have had a belt change
Something Is really close to that VVT hub though .
Fixed resistance mistake above, resistance is futile.
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The belt has already been replaced, the original one doesn't have 'Continental' on it (but has similar white areas on it).
I hear a small intermittend friction noise, and the belt seems to be wobbling over the tensioner pulley - the needle also shakes a little but less important. Can you take a picture more from the left to see how the needle sits, with a cold engine it should be centered, in the video 'seems' to be to the left. Normally, the Continental kits are good, but I would like to test that tensioner because of the way its pulley wobbles and because of the small chirping. it is possible a garage did overtighten its bolt, because these bolts only have 15lb-ft torque. You also notice the belt is sitting on the cam gears on the right side, this is also from the tensioner. Not necessarily a problem, but I would like to check the tensioner.
I hear a small intermittend friction noise, and the belt seems to be wobbling over the tensioner pulley - the needle also shakes a little but less important. Can you take a picture more from the left to see how the needle sits, with a cold engine it should be centered, in the video 'seems' to be to the left. Normally, the Continental kits are good, but I would like to test that tensioner because of the way its pulley wobbles and because of the small chirping. it is possible a garage did overtighten its bolt, because these bolts only have 15lb-ft torque. You also notice the belt is sitting on the cam gears on the right side, this is also from the tensioner. Not necessarily a problem, but I would like to check the tensioner.
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Thank you so much !!! I really appreciate you're help. That's such a relief knowing at least the TB service has been done once in the cars lifetime. They should have marked it on the motor or put a sticker SMH.oragex wrote: ↑09 May 2020, 10:15 The belt has already been replaced, the original one doesn't have 'Continental' on it (but has similar white areas on it).
I hear a small intermittend friction noise, and the belt seems to be wobbling over the tensioner pulley - the needle also shakes a little but less important. Can you take a picture more from the left to see how the needle sits, with a cold engine it should be centered, in the video 'seems' to be to the left. Normally, the Continental kits are good, but I would like to test that tensioner because of the way its pulley wobbles and because of the small chirping. it is possible a garage did overtighten its bolt, because these bolts only have 15lb-ft torque. You also notice the belt is sitting on the cam gears on the right side, this is also from the tensioner. Not necessarily a problem, but I would like to check the tensioner.
I took some more photos. Yeah I also noticed that the TB tensioner is wobbling and like you said the belt sits to the right edge of the cam gears instead of being centered ?
Also I've been hearing that chirping sound and figured I would try changing the serpentine belt and tensioner ?
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The needle is fine - assuming the engine is cold
The belt is indeed quite riding on the right side, it may be touching somewhere causing that squeak. Try with the left hand to keep the tensioner needle to the right, and spin with fingers the tensioner pulley putting some pressure on it - it will not spin freely because it's still touching the belt, try feeling if the pulley spins dry. I would also ask a place to undo and tighten again the bolt correctly but they will have to set the tensioner needle
The belt is indeed quite riding on the right side, it may be touching somewhere causing that squeak. Try with the left hand to keep the tensioner needle to the right, and spin with fingers the tensioner pulley putting some pressure on it - it will not spin freely because it's still touching the belt, try feeling if the pulley spins dry. I would also ask a place to undo and tighten again the bolt correctly but they will have to set the tensioner needle
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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I did what you said and yes the tensioner pulley turns. Not easily but not too hard either. I think I know what you mean by "dry", it does turn, it doesn't turn easily or feel loose but it doesn't feel seized or too hard either. Does that mean that the tensioner is in good condition ?oragex wrote: ↑09 May 2020, 14:50 The needle is fine - assuming the engine is cold
The belt is indeed quite riding on the right side, it may be touching somewhere causing that squeak. Try with the left hand to keep the tensioner needle to the right, and spin with fingers the tensioner pulley putting some pressure on it - it will not spin freely because it's still touching the belt, try feeling if the pulley spins dry. I would also ask a place to undo and tighten again the bolt correctly but they will have to set the tensioner needle
Also I compared the pictures as best as I can and it appears I have an INA tensioner. Is that the tensioner the car came with or do they originally come with a Volvo tensioners ? My picture shows a date of
08 - 03 - 07.
Last edited by hmsky83 on 10 May 2020, 07:00, edited 3 times in total.
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Those sure are dates and from the looks of them they are quite new
2019 would be excellent. I’ll check mine for date stamps to confirm
The pulleys and tensioners run stiffly, butsmoothly, best I can describe them
2019 would be excellent. I’ll check mine for date stamps to confirm
The pulleys and tensioners run stiffly, butsmoothly, best I can describe them
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The date on the tensioner is stamped behind the needle, in a circle, the last 2 digits of the year. I see the water pump is Hepu (not original), but it looks really wet and dirty, try see if it's also wet above the pump, otherwise it might be leaking from the small hole. Hepu are sometimes good, sometimes not. Aisin are genuine
.
.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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