Replacing the timing belt

jasonbarrish70 · Post by **jasonbarrish70** » 11 May 2020, 11:21

I've got the car fully disassembled for the task. I am replacing the water pump, timing belt, tensioner and the idler. I got the kit form FCP Euro. I also decided to replace the camshaft position sensors and the cam adjust solenoids. I found out that the tensioner had come apart and was barely supporting the belt. The belt having slipped down was ruining the belt covers and making a mess. Upon aligning the cams I got down to the crank and it wasn't even close. I aligned the crank with the timing mark but the cams are both off. Is it possible to align the cams independently of the crank? I figured I would need the alignment tool so that is my next purchase. I've spent nearly a grand on this project so far including the various tools that I acquired. Any assistance is appreciated.

jasonbarrish70 · Post by **jasonbarrish70** » 12 May 2020, 15:14

I mean, come on! I know the tensioner is broken, but it BARELY resembles the new part. Really?! And why is it that I can't find any detailed videos or anything related to my specific car? I can find LOADS of stuff pre-2009 and the odd 2012 but not one 2009. I'm being very whiny and annoyed.

jasonbarrish70 · Post by **jasonbarrish70** » 12 May 2020, 15:18

My other issue is this. The end of the camshaft doesn't resemble any of the other videos and images that I have seen. I'm lost now because the crank is at TDC but the camshaft are both off by at least 15°. I need to realign the camshaft but I'm fearful of jacking it up worse than it is.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 13 May 2020, 00:36

jasonbarrish70 wrote: ↑11 May 2020, 11:21 I've got the car fully disassembled for the task. I am replacing the water pump, timing belt, tensioner and the idler. I got the kit form FCP Euro. I also decided to replace the camshaft position sensors and the cam adjust solenoids. I found out that the tensioner had come apart and was barely supporting the belt. The belt having slipped down was ruining the belt covers and making a mess. Upon aligning the cams I got down to the crank and it wasn't even close. I aligned the crank with the timing mark but the cams are both off. Is it possible to align the cams independently of the crank? I figured I would need the alignment tool so that is my next purchase. I've spent nearly a grand on this project so far including the various tools that I acquired. Any assistance is appreciated.

The link has quite a few minor and major RR for the C30. Not sure if the timing belt replacement will be of help?
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Pelican Parts, LLC
Volvo C30 (2007-2013) Technical Articles
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticl ... 0_Tech.htm
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jasonbarrish70 · Post by **jasonbarrish70** » 13 May 2020, 02:46

Wasn't anything new except the photo of the end of the cam matches mine but the response from Nick was less than useless. What was worse is that one pic of the end of the cam is the only other shot that I've seen and IT was useless too. Thanks for the extra article though. I had not seen that one.

jasonbarrish70 · Post by **jasonbarrish70** » 16 May 2020, 17:18

Well, if you're working on the P1 platform Volvo or Ford, I finally found a really detailed and thorough video that covers this engine. Thank you Angel Car Care, most appreciated.

Stephane · Post by **Stephane** » 16 May 2020, 18:45

So happy I found this post. I am also in the process of doing the timing belt on my 2009 S40. The video is great. Now, I just need a good explanation on how to time the VVT gear, because I need to change the seal behind it...

jasonbarrish70 · Post by **jasonbarrish70** » 17 May 2020, 12:13

The worst part so far is getting the water pump out of the engine bay. With that stupid plastic shroud it's a bloody nightmare. As for the cams, once you remove the belt, the cams can be rotated 360 clockwise so it becomes a nonissue. Ensure the crank is at TDC and set your cams. I do recommend the cam lock just to keep them stable on the belt install. I spent more on tools than I did parts but I've got another 09 C30 and I plan to buy a few more so.....

jasonbarrish70 · Post by **jasonbarrish70** » 17 May 2020, 12:55

The ONLY way to get the water pump out of the engine bay is to lower the engine to 11.25" from the garage floor. That measurement was taken from the pass side of the oil pan. The engine really looks odd dropped that far but it works and nothing breaks. I raised it back up a quarter inch to clean the block and I'll drop it back down to install the new pump.

Stephane · Post by **Stephane** » 17 May 2020, 19:47

Just can't believe how tight it is in there. I had problem pulling the tensioner because the bolt was hitting the fender..

When you say the engine is 11.25" from the floor, I assume that your car is not on jacks stands??

Any place that explains how to time the gear on a 2.4L? Mine has absolutely no play in it. (It doesn't have a raised center hub, it is simply a straight plate (with a blue dot).