Starting replacement of control arms and ball joints on 2005 XC90 2.5t this weekend

[ggleavitt]

I think it's great if you can get the ball joint out of the arm, I have never had much luck with anything other than this tool (my mechanic suggested many years ago)- Baum V7062

I've heated and pounded and impact wrenched on 3 pairs of control arms and this tool is the only way I consistently get the ball joints separated from the arms without a bunch of swearing and carrying on. Must be just me but I'm surprised when folks suggest that they can get them off even sort of easily without. Even with the tool, you crank down hard enough that it makes you wonder if something's gonna break, then there's big POP! and ball joint separates.

I'm NOT a fan of aftermarket ball joints although I'm sure some folks are quite happy with them. See my experience with Meyle HD- https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... bservation

I'm sure that you can take the control arm and ball joint off as one unit and put them back together as two pieces. Might be a consideration for those who cannot get them separated. When the ball joint comes out of the knuckle, the strut/knuckle assembly is going to kick outward, be ready for that when it happens.

I always use new mounting hardware, LCA is torque to yield (as is the axle bolt).

Good luck with your repair.

[xHeart]

Starting this job this weekend. I've read write-ups and watch some videos. One video in particular literally only removed the control arm and ball joint, and then later replaced the sway bar link. So my first question is this: If the control arm and ball joint are both being replaced, is there a reason to separate them for removal? As I watch the video I have to ask if after removing the three bolts holding the control arm is it possible to use the air chisel and remove the ball joint while still attached to the control arm?

I haven't seen this style of LCA come in the package fully assembled with the ball joint. The reason being the ball joint needs to get pressed into the spindle first, you can't do this properly if it's already attached to the lower control arm. I hope that answers your question.

A must read thread from the MVS maestro viewtopic.php?t=91985

[shiloh51933]

A must read thread from the MVS maestro viewtopic.php?t=91985
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Yes fcp does make excellent videos for Volvo products. FCPEURO.COM has been my go to for years...FCPGROTON.com . We found them back when we had our 1996 Volvo 850 GLT . I literally just replaced the entire front end of my wife's 2004 XC90 T6. We purchased all of our parts from FCP. Thanks for posting that link.

[amblerman]

-There are no steering stops on the XC90.

OH! Good to note. I will edit my post to remove the incorrect info. I kinda forgot this was on an XC90.

[Batty251]

I've done this job on my old ford falcon XR6 but to be basic the reason people replace the control arm is because its alot less work. removing a ball joint requires a special tool to push on the outside rim of the ball joint and it requires alot of pressure as its a very tight area. I used my anger to get some of the ball joints out because they were annoying me with the clearances. Best advise i got when i was half way done was to remove the control arms and then use the tool to push them out and put new ones back in. I did them while the control arms were still on the car and yeah massive headaches and hair pulling moments. It's cheaper to just do the new ball joints as well as the special tool. Unless your made of money then yeah go and buy a new control arm that is $500 per arm.

[volvooh]

Great info here. After reading all your posts I will definitely separate the ball joint from the control arm prior to removal. Looks like taking the extra steps instead of a short cut will save time and most importantly, frustration. I also have watched the Leek Auto repair which simply removed the control arm and ball joint vs. the FCB which involves a lot more disassembly. Again, after watching both while the FCB has more steps (but very straight forward) I think the extra steps wills end-up taking less time, less frustration. Sometimes shortcuts end up taking you the long way around.

[oragex]

I did remove the ball joint once the wheel hub was on the floor. Just punch between the ball joint and the hub with a cold chisel, alternating near where the bolts sit - better not punch in the center because it may chip the hub metal. Clean nicely the hole and rub some grease before tapping the new bj - some ball joints get in very hard, Lemforder is genuine and works better. The hard part is to install the new hub on a new control arm, I prefer disconnecting the lower strut bolts www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxC9Ek9HhGI

[chitownV]

If you are removing both the control arm and ball joints, I would recommend not to separate the two old ones. The ball joint can be a bear to remove on the old control arm due to how the metal meets the control arm. Difficult to describe, but it has a ring/flat top to it so tools get caught in it, rather than between the balljoint and arm. There is no need to remove the entire hub either.

It is easier to take a chisel and hammer to work the old ball joint out while it is still connected to the arm.

For installation, do the ball joint first using the ball joint DIY tool mentioned here. Before installing the control arm, you unbolt the 2 strut bolts to give flexibility in movement. Then either let the spindle rest on a jack while you put the control arm into the subframe (without bolts). A second pair of hands help here. With the control arm loose in the subframe, you can maneuver the hub/spindle so the balljoint meets the control arm end.

Then bolt the new control arm bolts and the nut to the ball joint. Then bolt the strut.

[volvooh]

Well, I got the passenger side done this weekend. A couple of lessons learned. First, if you are following the FCP video, here to tell you that plan on lots of PB Blaster and bring your muscle to crack all of those nuts! If you are going to completely remove the hub/knuckle, my recommendation will be to remove the caliper from the bracket then hang it. The caliper is big and heavy enough on its own without the bracket, which was always in the way.

That being said, on the driver side I might use a version of the Oragex and Chitown method and not completely remove the hub. Stay tuned.

[wanderdüne]

That being said, on the driver side I might use a version of the Oragex and Chitown method and not completely remove the hub. Stay tuned.
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That's how I did it. If I remember right, I cracked loose the strut lower bolts, then screwed in a lug bolt at the top of the hub and secured a bungee cord from the lug bolt around the strut and back to the lug bolt. I backed out the axle screw to get the necessary movement in and out. Disconnected the strut bolts and bungee when it was time to mate the arm to the ball joint.