2005 V8 XC90 burning oil leak

[GreenMagicMan]

We have a significant oil leak. So much so that it burns and smokes in about 5 minutes of driving in hot weather. It appears whatever is leaking it's getting worse too.
Car has a flexpipe failure that a mechanic did short term patch on it. Flex pipe has hole in it again and this car ROARS! (lol, so help me I love it - I call this one 'hot rod').
But it is loud.
Originally I thought the powerful smell was carbon monoxide in the exhaust stream coming in to the cabin but now I think it's simply oil probably hitting the exhaust / cat somewhere and burning.
Car does not overheat, just a smoking smelly mess.

Common leak points? I can see at least it's not the rear main seal area.
Maybe front main? I read here those are uncommon on Volvos.
Timing belt cover? Valve cover gaskets? PCV valve?

I know Carbon Monoxide is serious and deadly. So I've been essentially benching this car and it's been mostly parked for last 6 weeks except for essential short trips with all the windows down.

[wanderdüne]

Usually the V8 leaks at the valve covers, and that's not a trivial job.

[GreenMagicMan]

Ok, thanks for sharing that. I will try to look around that.
I repaired the front bank on a '07 Kia Sedona V6 I had and that was easy if not a tad fiddly.
I have also done my 1995 Acura Integra I4 engine and that was easy (I was doing the Timing Belt and valve adjustment while there). The valve cover alone in 4 cyl would be quite easy (although breaking off that son of a B crank bolt was THE HARDEST job I've ever done as it would not release no matter what and stranded that car for 6 weeks...)
I assume this is a much more involved matter then? Like lots of 'stuff' needs to be removed to get to them, especially the rear bank?

[oragex]

Hehe, the Honda from that time were really easy to work on - except for the stuck bolts indeed. Great cars in every single aspect, always in my heart. Still Jap cars use axle nuts while Volvo has simply a 14mm bolt so easy to remove. As for working on, Volvo engines are a different world, especially for head and valve cover design (also pretty fiddly with the VVT hubs set up)

[GreenMagicMan]

Yeah I had read that the Honda (Acura Integra) Crank pulley bolt was factory torqued at 660 ft / lbs or more even. Near impossible to break out. Johnny homeowner impact gun - nothing. Mechanic grade air impact gun - nothing. Cherry hot red heat - nothing. Huge cheat bars - nothing. I know it was never out because I bought the car brand new and finally got the courage to change the T Belt at 120K (double Honda's recommendation of 60K - and you know what? The timing belt looked completely fine).
That was a really big battle.

[ggleavitt]

Back bank gets hotter than the front, valve cover gasket leaks mostly start there. Seeping at first, can see photos from my engine for reference https://goo.gl/photos/tcLSKkYEp6KqkbaR9

It's a pretty easy job, just takes time and patience. Feel free to review this post if it's something you need to do and try not to make the mistakes that I did (like breaking the injector plastics)- https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... eplacement .

There's also a video from an S80 V8 for reference-

I created a parts list in the swedespeed thread, since then FCP has put together a kit with a mix of OE and aftermarket parts https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?keywords=KIT-516322 . Good opportunity to install some other components while you're in there, I did the PCV valve and the fuel pressure sensor (Bosch 0261230238 is alternative PN I believe).

Give the model year, when was the aux belt with all the rollers replaced?

[GreenMagicMan]

In case anyone is following my 3 car Volvo XC90 drama here is sep. post for "RED CAR":

223K miles 2005 V8 AWD. Bought at auction 2 years ago. Unknown service history.

Car starts right up every time. Quick adjustment from fast idle to normal idle. Engine temp gauge always 1/2 normal. Big power from engine always.

It's got a big enough oil leak that it is smoking in summertime and smells of (externally) burning oil. Must be dropping onto the exhaust system somewhere. People here have suggested the rear valve cover gasket as a common issue.

I also don't know what all these fuel codes below could be coming from - haven't looked them all up yet. Not sure if they could all be tied to one problem.

Currently the MIL codes are:
P2407 Evap emissions sys leak detected, pump sensor circuit inter
P0435 eval erratic reference on face low flow
P0171 Sys too rich Bank 1
P0175 sys too rich on Bank 2
P0089 Fuel pressure regulator one performance
P0193 Fuel rail pressure sensor A circuit high

Flex pipe leak was 'patched' by garage and is back leaking and loud (although I love the sound).