I see a lot of expensive NKG out there at my local shops...and iridium, nickel or platinum. Is one metal better then others...longevity?
A lot of options.
3.2L: What non-OEM plugs do you like or have success with?
3.2L: What non-OEM plugs do you like or have success with?
Shawn F.
2001 V70 T5
2003 XC70
1996 Vw Passat Tdi
1999 Porsche Boxster
2004 Chevy Suburban LT 5.3L
2013 & 2015 S60 T5
2008 Vw Touareg T2 V6
1989 Sea Ray 340 Sundander
2007 Sea Doo Challenger 180 SE
2001 V70 T5
2003 XC70
1996 Vw Passat Tdi
1999 Porsche Boxster
2004 Chevy Suburban LT 5.3L
2013 & 2015 S60 T5
2008 Vw Touareg T2 V6
1989 Sea Ray 340 Sundander
2007 Sea Doo Challenger 180 SE
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jimmy57
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Iridiums seem to be the longevity champs. Double platinums next. Both of these will go 100K easily in non turbo and probably 75K in turbo use. I am not sure which brand is best. I'm not sure there is a clear winner. I never use Champions as they are the ones I have the most damaged threads from. I like Denso, NGK, and Bosch. If Beru were more widely available they would be on the list. Beru have been OE from Volvo but I do not know who is supplying the factory plugs now.
Thanks. I figured iridium was the way. I see autolites for half the price of others and reviews seem fine. Unless anyone can confirm they are garbage I’ll have my buddy give them a shot.
Shawn F.
2001 V70 T5
2003 XC70
1996 Vw Passat Tdi
1999 Porsche Boxster
2004 Chevy Suburban LT 5.3L
2013 & 2015 S60 T5
2008 Vw Touareg T2 V6
1989 Sea Ray 340 Sundander
2007 Sea Doo Challenger 180 SE
2001 V70 T5
2003 XC70
1996 Vw Passat Tdi
1999 Porsche Boxster
2004 Chevy Suburban LT 5.3L
2013 & 2015 S60 T5
2008 Vw Touareg T2 V6
1989 Sea Ray 340 Sundander
2007 Sea Doo Challenger 180 SE
- GenericVolvoDriver
- Posts: 4
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- Year and Model: '13 XC90 & '12 XC60
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https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... QR10-plugs
I used the IKH20TT's. Work perfect. Supercede the FK20HQR10 plugs as per:
http://denso.elcome.co.uk/ecat/Search/FK20HQR10
I used the IKH20TT's. Work perfect. Supercede the FK20HQR10 plugs as per:
http://denso.elcome.co.uk/ecat/Search/FK20HQR10
2013 Volvo XC90 AWD Platinum (Climate package, walnut inlays + wheel, BLIS, active bi-xenon headlights) 131k km
2012 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD Platinum (Technology package, climate package) 17k km
2003 Acura TL Type S A-Spec (2007 Accord V6 trans swap, Tein SS, all available engine bolt ons, Apexi AFC, etc.) 108k km
1988 Nissan 300ZX Turbo (2+2, T-top, Aztec Red, collector plates) 80k km
2012 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD Platinum (Technology package, climate package) 17k km
2003 Acura TL Type S A-Spec (2007 Accord V6 trans swap, Tein SS, all available engine bolt ons, Apexi AFC, etc.) 108k km
1988 Nissan 300ZX Turbo (2+2, T-top, Aztec Red, collector plates) 80k km
Thanks but Denso are all but impossible to find local in my areas. Often our local store products get negative comments from euro car owners often with no good data to back them. We are going with autolite iridium this AM. Will post back.
Shawn F.
2001 V70 T5
2003 XC70
1996 Vw Passat Tdi
1999 Porsche Boxster
2004 Chevy Suburban LT 5.3L
2013 & 2015 S60 T5
2008 Vw Touareg T2 V6
1989 Sea Ray 340 Sundander
2007 Sea Doo Challenger 180 SE
2001 V70 T5
2003 XC70
1996 Vw Passat Tdi
1999 Porsche Boxster
2004 Chevy Suburban LT 5.3L
2013 & 2015 S60 T5
2008 Vw Touareg T2 V6
1989 Sea Ray 340 Sundander
2007 Sea Doo Challenger 180 SE
- pgill
- Posts: 798
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Excellent informationGenericVolvoDriver wrote: ↑04 Sep 2018, 23:42 https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... QR10-plugs
I used the IKH20TT's. Work perfect. Supercede the FK20HQR10 plugs as per:
http://denso.elcome.co.uk/ecat/Search/FK20HQR10
Thanks for sharing the links
I have been using the IKH20 in my 2008 LR2 and 2010 S80
I am changing the plugs every 50,000 miles
For my next change I will be upgrading to the TT's (IKH20TT)
I've recommended the IKH20TT to several MVS readers and they have had excellent results.
The only missing piece of information is the Gap.
IKH20 1.1 mm (.044")
IKH20TT 1.0 mm (.040")
FK20HQR10 1.0 mm (.040")
FK20HQR8 0.8 mm (.032")
The original plugs that I removed from my 2010 S80 were 1.1 mm and I believe the LR2 also came with 1.1 mm gap.
Both of these are non turbo
For the Turbo (Polestar) applications I believe that Volvo went to the 0.8 mm gap
If you are running stock boost the 1.0 mm gap should be fine
One last thought I change plugs every 5 or 6 years and I wait for a sale and buy the plugs ahead of time
Thanks
Paul
Last edited by pgill on 23 Jul 2020, 17:25, edited 1 time in total.
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chitownV
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I cannot comment directly about the plugs pgill recommended because I don't have personal experience with them.
However, the goal for a spark plugs is to give the most area of the hottest spark. That means run the widest gap it is supposed to have so more of the spark is exposed to the air/fuel mixture. Running a smaller gap can mask weakening coils. With good coils, a factory wide gap plus a hot spark will give the best ignition. For this reason, I like to know the health of my engine and like to run the stock gap sizes with the original Volvo plugs because if I am compensting for a weaker spark with a smaller gap, that might mask the fact that a coil could be on its way out. However, if you have new coils and the engine is running very well, doesn't hurt to try the plugs pgill recommended. If it works, hooray. If it doesn't run well, then you know for sure it is the plugs and swap back the old ones.
I remember building performance engines, we used to mark the spark plug (insulator/ceramic side) with a sharpie so we knew where the ground electrode was covering the ignition point. Then we would tighten the spark plug so the open area of the center electrode faced the center of the cylinder. I wouldn't suggest this for long-term at home because if the plug isn't tightened properly, it could loosen over time. For a race, it worked very well and we would remove the plugs to check the condition after each race.
The lesson, we want both the hottest spark and the most area of the spark exposed. Covering that up with multi-tip plugs might lower performance and setting a smaller gap could mask coils that should be replaced. While the 3.2 isn't turbo'd, it does like to rev in the mid to upper revs a lot, so it still needs good spark. That extra mid to upper rpms wear could also attribute why the 3.2 coils should be replaced as early as 150k miles.
However, the goal for a spark plugs is to give the most area of the hottest spark. That means run the widest gap it is supposed to have so more of the spark is exposed to the air/fuel mixture. Running a smaller gap can mask weakening coils. With good coils, a factory wide gap plus a hot spark will give the best ignition. For this reason, I like to know the health of my engine and like to run the stock gap sizes with the original Volvo plugs because if I am compensting for a weaker spark with a smaller gap, that might mask the fact that a coil could be on its way out. However, if you have new coils and the engine is running very well, doesn't hurt to try the plugs pgill recommended. If it works, hooray. If it doesn't run well, then you know for sure it is the plugs and swap back the old ones.
I remember building performance engines, we used to mark the spark plug (insulator/ceramic side) with a sharpie so we knew where the ground electrode was covering the ignition point. Then we would tighten the spark plug so the open area of the center electrode faced the center of the cylinder. I wouldn't suggest this for long-term at home because if the plug isn't tightened properly, it could loosen over time. For a race, it worked very well and we would remove the plugs to check the condition after each race.
The lesson, we want both the hottest spark and the most area of the spark exposed. Covering that up with multi-tip plugs might lower performance and setting a smaller gap could mask coils that should be replaced. While the 3.2 isn't turbo'd, it does like to rev in the mid to upper revs a lot, so it still needs good spark. That extra mid to upper rpms wear could also attribute why the 3.2 coils should be replaced as early as 150k miles.
2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 169k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Continental CrossContact LX25 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot
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chitownV
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Just also saw that FCP is posting the Denso IKH20TT is for XC90 3.2 from chassis # 568001. So, not to be used for the earlier 3.2 engines.
2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 169k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Continental CrossContact LX25 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot
- pgill
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Volvo changed the sparkplugs for the 3.2
If you do a part number search from Volvo I think you will find 31286359 is the latest part number
Note: My 2010 S80 and my 2008 LR2 did not come with these plugs originally
Looking at the picture
Upper Arrow - 31286359 (for MY 11 and after)
Green Arrow - This is a TT style plug
Lower red arrow - 10 (This is a Denso part number with a 1.0 mm gap)
I plan to run the TT's bough directly from Denso and to eliminate Volvo's markup
However if Volvo is cheaper then buy from them
If you do a part number search from Volvo I think you will find 31286359 is the latest part number
Note: My 2010 S80 and my 2008 LR2 did not come with these plugs originally
Looking at the picture
Upper Arrow - 31286359 (for MY 11 and after)
Green Arrow - This is a TT style plug
Lower red arrow - 10 (This is a Denso part number with a 1.0 mm gap)
I plan to run the TT's bough directly from Denso and to eliminate Volvo's markup
However if Volvo is cheaper then buy from them
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