FDPP #2

[gnalan]

The LSM Pete sent me has the little light on all the time, even with the switch in the off position. In the off position, the DRL are on, front parking lights, and I can push the button and turn the rear fog lights on. According to the owner's manual, unless I read it wrong, the rear fog lights (one on each side, even though the manual says there's only on on the driver's side rear) shouldn't work in the off position. Is the used LSM he sent me going bad, or is this all normal? Just trying to make sure this LSM isn't going bad on me. The LSM that was in the car when I bought it did nothing, but it did have DRL on all the time.

[bmdubya1198]

You don't have to worry about breaking down with that hose disconnected, it's simply an air duct. If anything, it will improve performance until you fix the air box thermostat.

[gnalan]

Made it to my appt and back, and the car ran ok but still not the greatest.

While idling it doesn't stay in one spot, and drops to 600rpm, maybe lower, stumbles like it's going to die, and then goes back up to around 900rpm before dropping back to around 750rpm and starting the cycle over again. Is my ETM going bad? Is it possible to swap in a normal cable operated throttle body and pedal from a different Volvo, or other manufacturer?

I didn't hear/feel any misfiring today, and the gas leak is hopefully fixed now. Can anyone confirm if a half of a tank of gas is enough to submerge the sending unit, and where the seal is, or would I need to add more gas? I didn't want to fill it all the way up if it's still leaking, but I do want to fill it enough to see if it's going to leak again without wasting gas.

I'm hoping to get the strut swapped out soon, but this week is pretty much booked up until Sunday.

[bmdubya1198]

Half a tank is plenty for the fuel pump to suck up.

I would recommend reading codes with VIDA and running an ETM test. It's possible that it's failing, but you'll want to check for any other issues before jumping to the ETM (vacuum leaks, MAF, etc.)

[gnalan]

I ran the ETM test twice before when I first noticed the problem, and it tested ok. I'll test it again, when it's really struggling to stay idling to see if it still passes.

I unplugged the MAF and it didn't change anything.

I'll throw the DiCE on it when I get a chance to see if it shows anything, and to test the ETM. Is there a MAF test in VIDA, or anyway of checking it besides unplugging it?

[gnalan]

Half a tank is plenty for the fuel pump to suck up.

Yes, but maybe I didn't ask my question the way I meant it. I was trying to ask if half of a tank is enough gas to be at a level above the driver's side sending unit to make sure the seal isn't still leaking, or if I need to add more fuel to get it above where the seal is to check if that seal is still leaking.

[bmdubya1198]

Ah I get what you're saying. I believe you'd need just about a full tank for it to splash out of the o-ring around the sending unit.

[gnalan]

I would recommend reading codes with VIDA and running an ETM test. It's possible that it's failing, but you'll want to check for any other issues before jumping to the ETM (vacuum leaks, MAF, etc.)

When I first started the car this morning to leave, it stumbled on me and died before I even got away from the curb. Did the same thing every time I had to stop, and when I tried to accelerate from any stop it stumbled, hesitated, and barely wanted to move. This is why I thought I had bad gas in the tank. I had to shift it myself to keep the rpms up around 2500rpm and higher to keep it from wanting to die on me.

When I got back I hooked up my DiCE to check for any codes, but didn't have anything related to the way the car was running. The only codes it shows is for the left rear door lock being too high, the siren not working, and the SIPS in the driver's seat (which the wires that should run to it look like they've been cut underneath the seat). No codes stored in the ECM anywhere, not even intermittent codes, which seems odd with the way the car was/is running.

I did put both the desired ETM value and the actual ETM value on the graph, and watch the desired stay right around 4.9% idling and the actual value jump up and down from 19% into negative numbers (how is that even possible?). The readings didn't start matching up until I got above 3000rpm, and I checked it up to 4500rpm with it reading the same value for both parameters. I didn't want to rev it any higher than that. Shouldn't they both match up through the entire rpm range, from idle to redline? Is this why the car ran better while I was driving it at higher rpms?

I also checked the idle rpm, and it varied from 901rpm down to 490rpm, and just kept bouncing up and down the entire time. I'm going to assume this is because the ETM was trying to match the two values and couldn't.

Is there a way to get mine working like it should myself, with the actual and desired values being equal all the way from idle to redline, or is my ETM junk and I need to find a replacement? If it does need replaced, does anyone have a good one lying around they can help me out with that will work for my car? It has the naturally aspirated B5244S in it, if that makes any difference.

I'm sorry if I'm asking for too much. This is a great program, and I don't want to take away from anyone else that's in need of help.

[cn90]

If your car ran fine before filling with the Sunoco gasoline, then...

- Get a proper container and jump the fuel pump to pump fuel out.
- Inspect the container for any water, which will settle at the bottom.
- Don't run the pump dry, once you see bubbles, stop.

[bmdubya1198]

It sounds like the ETM may be a problem. You may want to start with cn90's recommendation of draining the gas, or even getting the fuel level as low as possible and filling it with some good quality fuel.