breather box insights ( Banjo bolt type) (lengthy)

[volvomadness]

This is the 3rd breather box I've done on the s60/v70 2005-2009.
The youtube video from FCP makes it look easy,,, its not. The s70's were so much easier.

First of all you don't need to replace the aluminum pipe, it's expensive and unlike the plastic on the s70 it doesn't break.

You also don't have to remove the rail. The reason I think people do remove the rail is to get to the manifold bolt next to the fuel line. You can remove and inset the bolt with the fuel line there. Just work from the bottom up. I take my trusty magnet and worked from the bottom of the manifold hole. If you try to go direct you are blocked by the fuel line. But if you tilt the screw facing the screw portion up to the sky you can get it in.

Now for the banjo bolt. I have done this two different ways..The banjo bolt is by far the hardest part of the job. Bavarian engineering feat.

First method. After I removed everything holding the manifold lift the manifold up and use the 17 in wrench to undo the banjo. Doesn't take much to loosen it. Make sure you buy a few spare washers. They are copper so the trusty magnet won't pick them up. Also with this method you will probably break the thin plastic pipe from the banjo to the breather and have to buy the part the fcp youtube guy indicates.
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People say to use a 17 in stubby. You still have to lift the intake somewhat and the plastic will break anyway.

With the first method I would suggest you purchase a set of crow feed wrenches, you only need a the 10mm but chances are you can't just buy it separate. This is to loosen the lower manifold bolt hidden next to the thermostat housing (another Bavarian engineering feat). The lower bolt can also be loosen if you have a really thin 1/4in 10mm socket and long extensions. But I thing its harder. What I do is loosing the bolt with the crow and then us the 1/4 to finish. Of course you have to snake your extensions.

Second method, which as I reflect is a better method. A little more upfront work but makes the two most difficult part of the job (banjo and lower bolt) a lot easier.

With the second method you move the power steering pump out of the way. Of course you need to loosen the serpentine belt. With the pump moved you have access to the lower bolt and improved access to the banjo. You still have to loosen the manifold but you have greater access to the banjo. With this method, I didn't break the plastic hose. I just cleaned and reused.(all depends on the condition).

Another benefit I found with respect to the the 2009 s60 (might also be earlier years after 2005) is you have access to the thermostat housing. On my 2005 the thermostat housing slipped right in without moving anything major however on the 2009 you have to move the power steering pump to get the housing out (doesn't have any clearance), Another engineering feat. For around a hundred and change might want to replace the housing at this point. Its like the water pump -- timing belt thing..

The youtube video is good in the middle part of the job so I'll talk about putting it back together again. Only have two items to highlight.

First, don't connect any hoses to the breather box and the hose to the thermostat housing. Put clamps on the ends but don't connect. This makes it easier to maneuver the banjo bolt and everything else to get the angle to screw the bolt into the manifold. I draw a line with a marker to indicate the angle of the bolt. Once the job is finished snake your arm under the manifold to connect the hose to the banjo
and then snake the top of engine hose down and connect.

Second, make sure you connect the throttle body connector, put the clamp on the throttle body hose and line it up to the throttle body before you start securing the manifold.

Know its pretty long but hope it helps someone.
Madness

[volvomadness]

Meant connect the hoses to the breather not banjo at the end.

[jamadams11]

I remove the P/S pump, Alternator and the banjo is easily removed. I don't remove the intake.

[abscate]

I secure the banjo bolt and two crush washers onto the pipe by using an old oring to hold it on


Do this before you install the PCV pipe


Once the threads have started, I pull the oring with a pick and cut it off

[chrism]

If I still own my 03 with 2.4 N.A. the next time it needs a PCV service I am going to consider replacing the manifold bolts with torx heads in order to make that one lower bolt easier to tighten. For some reason I have always been able to loosen it just fine with a crows foot and 1/4” drive socket but when I go to reassemble I’m never confident that I am getting it adequately snugged down.

[abscate]

If I still own my 03 with 2.4 N.A. the next time it needs a PCV service I am going to consider replacing the manifold bolts with torx heads in order to make that one lower bolt easier to tighten. For some reason I have always been able to loosen it just fine with a crows foot and 1/4” drive socket but when I go to reassemble I’m never confident that I am getting it adequately snugged down.

Standby for measurement of thread depth on head on an RN and R engine

Maybe the Torx on the thermostat would work?

[volvolugnut]

I secure the banjo bolt and two crush washers onto the pipe by using an old oring to hold it on


Do this before you install the PCV pipe


Once the threads have started, I pull the oring with a pick and cut it off

This is a great idea! I wish I had done this in May when I did the PCV on mine. Related idea inspired by your oring trick - use a light gauge wire with one twist. After getting the banjo bolt started, reverse the twist and remove the wire.
volvolugnut

[abscate]

These tricks work on PCV , turbo, and rear cylinder head banjos, or any fitting with crush washers