2004 Volvo XC90 2.5t No Oil Pressure

Paulz · Post by **Paulz** » 09 Sep 2020, 18:47

I know this has been covered 100 times but none of the posts I see seem to relate to mine I feel anyways. Here’s my issue:

I had an extensive oil leak which cause me to start getting no oil pressure signals. I rode that out for a long time putting off fixing it and ended up blowing my turbo and needed new CVVT and VVT hubs. After getting all of that fixed and running engine flush twice I am still getting a no oil pressure signal. I let the car run at idle for 30 minutes no light or warning. When I drive the car it’s fine for about 10 minutes and then the light will flash on and off and so will the warning. Then eventually it stays on. If I shut the car off and start it again it’ll stay off for a few minutes and then soon as I start driving it comes back on. The dip stick at both idle and off has oil on it. After driving and the light comes on if I check the dip stick it’s dry. There are no leaks and the car has 5.5quarts if oil in it so I know it isn’t super low or empty. Could this be an issue where my oil pan screen is gunked up and isn’t allowing enough oil to hit the pan for the pick up to suck it up?

Post by **cn90** » 09 Sep 2020, 19:17

You are correct, this has been covered 100 times before.
Search forum for "oil pan O-rings".

Paulz · Post by **Paulz** » 09 Sep 2020, 20:14

@cn90 thanks I’ll check it out then.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 09 Sep 2020, 21:17

Agree with cn90 - most likely your oil pan o-rings are failing. Overtime and usage they become brittle and deform - hence they do not seal under pressure. What you describe is consistent with failing/failed o-rings.

This is an urgent problem and you should drop the pan and replace the o-rings ASAP!!! Parts kit at a site sponsor is under $30 last I checked. Read the write ups, there are plenty of them, and do not use RTV sealant! You need anaerobic sealant, Permatex makes a suitable product which is under $15 - buy a $1 foam roller and you are good to go.

Paulz · Post by **Paulz** » 10 Sep 2020, 09:52

Super Herman thanks! I called a shop he quoted $500 to 800 does this sound reasonable or should I just do it myself

Post by **cn90** » 10 Sep 2020, 15:25

This DIY is written ecbsykes for his 2000 XC70, which is very very similar to your 2004 XC90 2.5T.

Idk much about the kit that FCP sells (Victor-Reinz):
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 83#fitment

However, if in doubt, then buy Volvo O-rings, which cost a bit more but in the big scheme of things, they maybe better than Victor-Reinz.

viewtopic.php?t=31236

Post by **SuperHerman** » 10 Sep 2020, 16:41

Paulz - that price seem pretty high, but it depends on your local shop rates. You need to do some research to see if the pan just drops down or if you have to fiddle with lifting the engine or removing the engine cradle.

If the pan just drops down and you have the tools it is not a bad job. Should be in and out for under $100 including oil change.

Read the write ups, do a dry run without the sealant on so you understand the movements to get the pan back on, maybe have a helper hold it while you install the first 4 bolts and make sure the engine walls leading to the pan are clean. I like to spray them a few times and wipe them down and let it sit off for a few hours. The oil on the engine block will continue to slow drip - so you need to limit this to keep a clean seal. If you remove the pan, clean the walls, spray the walls, and then clean the pan that time frame seems to work. Leaving it off overnight would also help.

FCP kit has worked for me on three Volvos.

Post by **oragex** » 10 Sep 2020, 17:24

Also you don't mention the PCV. Was it replaced ? It has a drain channel inside the oil pan, worth inspecting while there

Paulz · Post by **Paulz** » 11 Sep 2020, 11:44

oragex wrote: ↑10 Sep 2020, 17:24 Also you don't mention the PCV. Was it replaced ? It has a drain channel inside the oil pan, worth inspecting while there

I didn’t get it replaced I’ll look into that for sure