Hy Buddies,
A question, to change. I enjoyed tearing my hair out on the clutch so much that I want to take the plunge on a new subject.
When I drive my beautiful Volvo 850 in town, when I pass over small holes, or speed bumps, at a cool speed, I have the impression to feel some littles kicks in the steering wheel (road default), as if there was no "mounts" to absorb these littles kicks.
On a diagram taken from Volvo Webstore parts, I've seen that there are no mounts,if I have well seen.
So, what should I control :
- steering liquid ?
- steering rack ?
- tie rod ends ?
- tie rod steering axles ?
- suspensions ?
- springs caps ?
- suspension strut Support Bearing Front axle ?
- drive shafts ?
Thanks to those that will advice me...
Manov.
850 Steering column question
-
scot850
- Posts: 14870
- Joined: 5 April 2010
- Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
- Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
- Has thanked: 1836 times
- Been thanked: 1709 times
When you have worked on your car, have you replaced any of the engine mounts with poly bushes? They transmit more vibration into the steering but make things feel more stiff.
If you are feeling clunks then maybe there are worn components either in the steering, suspension or front sub-frame mounts. Worn rear suspension components can also affect the car but I would not expect to feel that through the steering wheel.
I would start by looking at the steering system. Check the track-rod end ball-joint for play. Also check there is no movement in the inner track rods.
Then it is a case of checking the lover control arm bushes for wear and the lower suspension ball joints.
Lastly look at the sub-frame bushes. If they are worn, the sub-frame can move slightly and potentially make the steering wheel jump a little.
What tire size are you using? The larger the tire diameter, the smaller the tire side-wall. That would make the steering sensitive to bumps also.
Neil.
If you are feeling clunks then maybe there are worn components either in the steering, suspension or front sub-frame mounts. Worn rear suspension components can also affect the car but I would not expect to feel that through the steering wheel.
I would start by looking at the steering system. Check the track-rod end ball-joint for play. Also check there is no movement in the inner track rods.
Then it is a case of checking the lover control arm bushes for wear and the lower suspension ball joints.
Lastly look at the sub-frame bushes. If they are worn, the sub-frame can move slightly and potentially make the steering wheel jump a little.
What tire size are you using? The larger the tire diameter, the smaller the tire side-wall. That would make the steering sensitive to bumps also.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
- Cookeh
- Posts: 522
- Joined: 14 January 2019
- Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850 T5
- Location: Ceredigion, Cymru
- Has thanked: 77 times
- Been thanked: 59 times
Bump steer (which is what I think you're describing) can be caused by a number of things. Most commonly its a bad wheel alignment, or worn suspension components linked to toe-in and toe-out geometry. This is stuff like your control arms and track rod ends, as covered by Neil.
Tyre size, yes and no in opinion. Sometimes larger sidewalls are inherently softer and so can compress and deflect over bumps. This deflection can lead to something that feels like bump steer. I do agree that smaller sidewalls are generally more bump sensitive though.
Tyre size, yes and no in opinion. Sometimes larger sidewalls are inherently softer and so can compress and deflect over bumps. This deflection can lead to something that feels like bump steer. I do agree that smaller sidewalls are generally more bump sensitive though.
- manovlov
- Posts: 1180
- Joined: 6 July 2011
- Year and Model: 1995 850 GLT 2.5 170
- Location: Grenoble, France
- Has thanked: 620 times
- Been thanked: 143 times
Hy BoYzs !
Thanks for reply. Control arms are new, as the sway bar link front axle. All the rest seems to me to be originals OEM. I have to replace every parts.
I suppose that to replace the parts below, I need a press, no ?
Thanks .
Manov
Thanks for reply. Control arms are new, as the sway bar link front axle. All the rest seems to me to be originals OEM. I have to replace every parts.
I suppose that to replace the parts below, I need a press, no ?
Thanks .
Manov
1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56
- Cookeh
- Posts: 522
- Joined: 14 January 2019
- Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850 T5
- Location: Ceredigion, Cymru
- Has thanked: 77 times
- Been thanked: 59 times
Did you get an alignment done after changing the suspension components? Its still worth checking the inner and outer tie rods for play, too.
You don't need a press for the subframe bearings. There are some good guides on here for their removal and installation in-situ.
You don't need a press for the subframe bearings. There are some good guides on here for their removal and installation in-situ.
-
scot850
- Posts: 14870
- Joined: 5 April 2010
- Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
- Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
- Has thanked: 1836 times
- Been thanked: 1709 times
I agree with Cookeh that you need to check the steering linkages first and let us know if you had an alignment done on the whole suspension after the front end work. Rear suspension can also cause strange issues so a 4 wheel alignment should have been done,
Like Cookeh says there are several posts on sub-frame bush replacements. Volvo has a tool to pull and fit the bushes. My big caution on this is make sure the engine is supported. Volvo did not do this and it fractured the top pipe on my radiator outlet which takes a lot of strain at the best of times.
Neil.
Like Cookeh says there are several posts on sub-frame bush replacements. Volvo has a tool to pull and fit the bushes. My big caution on this is make sure the engine is supported. Volvo did not do this and it fractured the top pipe on my radiator outlet which takes a lot of strain at the best of times.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
- manovlov
- Posts: 1180
- Joined: 6 July 2011
- Year and Model: 1995 850 GLT 2.5 170
- Location: Grenoble, France
- Has thanked: 620 times
- Been thanked: 143 times
Yo !
At first, what has been already done :
- Front :
- Rear :
- Alignment : not yet.
No, it really has matter to the state of the road.
Manov.
At first, what has been already done :
- Front :
- Sway bar link Front axle
- Control arms
- Rear :
- Suspensions springs
- Spring cap Rear axle
- Shock absorber Rear axle
- Mounting plate, Shock absorber
- Suspension strut Support Bearing Rear axle
- Alignment : not yet.
No, it really has matter to the state of the road.
Manov.
1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56
- manovlov
- Posts: 1180
- Joined: 6 July 2011
- Year and Model: 1995 850 GLT 2.5 170
- Location: Grenoble, France
- Has thanked: 620 times
- Been thanked: 143 times
My question is not so much how to extract them, bur more how the reassemble them. My English is not so good so, I have to say that it takes me a bit time to read posts selected by the engine search on words la sub frame - bushes.. But not impossible.Cookeh wrote: ↑11 Sep 2020, 01:27 Did you get an alignment done after changing the suspension components? Its still worth checking the inner and outer tie rods for play, too.
You don't need a press for the subframe bearings. There are some good guides on here for their removal and installation in-situ.
Manov
1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56
- Cookeh
- Posts: 522
- Joined: 14 January 2019
- Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850 T5
- Location: Ceredigion, Cymru
- Has thanked: 77 times
- Been thanked: 59 times
Check tie rods first, if thats okay then get an alignment. If you still have the issues after that then its time to consider subftame bushes. I wouldn't worry about them until you've rules out tie rods and alignment.
That should give you time to research the bushing reassembly, if you need to do it.
That should give you time to research the bushing reassembly, if you need to do it.
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 2 Replies
- 629 Views
-
Last post by Nick777
-
- 2 Replies
- 743 Views
-
Last post by dmikes1st1






