1993 volvo 240 no spark

[PinkFloyd]

I recently got a 1993 volvo 240 that the previous owner couldn't find the problem of no start so I dove in. I have replaced the ignition coil, ignition coil, ignition control module, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and cps. After all that I finally got a spark but not when turning the car over but rather I got spark with the key on and connecting and4 disconnecting the blue+ wire from the coil.

Plz help

[volvolugnut]

Does this ignition have a Hall effect sensor or other type trigger for the spark position? Do you have a spare distributor you could try? It sounds like the ignition is not getting a signal to fire. Does the distributor turn as you crank? Could be a sheared distributor drive pin.
Keep all you removed parts - you probably have some good spares now.
Volvolugnut

[jimmy57]

The connectors for the Ignition control module (the transistor amplifier is the thing on the side of the inner apron adjacent to battery) connection on the firewall inside on passenger side is prone to issues. Especially if the car ever had water leaks or plugged up a/c drain. Unplug it and spray it with contact cleaner and then plug and unplug 3-4 times. Last time before you plug it back in put some dielectric grease or at least Vaseline for test purposes and then see if it has spark and runs. The fuel injection module is prone to the same issues and it is under the passenger side kick panel and can use the same connection "cleaning" process. I have seen the one spark at on or off with this issue. It is also worth the time to check crank sensor connector on firewall. The best way is to get a regular size paper clip and take it to a vise and tap it with a hammer until it just barely has flattened it. That makes it about the same width as the pins on the crank sensor side. If you have a wiring harness to robber a male pin from that is better. The paper clip or pin is used to check female terminal friction. The femal terminals through early 90s didn't have a back spring to assure good connection and corrosion and male pin fretting (wear spot that thins the pin) cause lots of no start, stalls, and random intermittent fault codes. Have you checked fault codes? It has been a long time since I did it manually but I recall #2 is fuel and #6 is ignition. The cable stored on that underhood diag socket is placed in the socket, 2 or 6, and depressed for over one sec but less than 3 sec and then released and the led will blink the three digit codes in a sequence of: 1st digit flash count, pause for a second, 2nd digit flashes, pause, 3rd digit. Codes are listed here if you search repair database.

[Dindleh]

I’m having a very similar/exact same problem. I have replaced
Batt
Distribution cap and rotor
Wires, plugs
Ignition coil ( reads in specs, wires are good too)
Power stage
ICU/ecu
Radio suppression and wires
CPS (it’s good we tested it a couple different ways)
Ignition switch
Tested to make sure there is fuel, there is.

We get spark now, but only when I turn the ignition off after cranking.

Did you get your Volvo up, what was the cause