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Looking to purchase my first Volvo : XC70

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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westu37
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Re: Looking to purchase my first Volvo : XC70

Post by westu37 »

Thank you all for the input! I know I've been leaning more towards the 05-07 models. I like the styling a little better. I'm also keeping an eye out to try to get a 3 row seat one. I DO have to drive the 09+ one to compare to the P2. Even though the P3 is faster, like you guys are saying, I feel from what i've learned so far, the p2 will give me more miles/years taken care of vs. the p3 with the same love.

I know comparing a stock XC70 and my modified Outback XT is apples to oranges, but I think with less than what I spent on the Outback, I can do the same with the Xc70. I figure my goal of 300hp would be about the same as my Outback. (I never dynoed it, but with custom tune/wrx turbo, i'd say it was about 275hp/275tq) The torque curve on these 5 cyl engines is what appeals to me. Like the 390 Country sedan, its the torque that gets the heaver cars moving (BTW the Subie accel is so good because the diff ratio in the Outbacks/Foresters is 4.44:1 vs Volvo 2.65:1 is great for highway economy but sucks for acceleration)

So with your help on this forum and others, I think I'll concentrate on 05-07 XC70 and modify to my taste. Now to find a cared for wagon with less than 150K miles in my area, preferably in blue....

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Post by abscate »

Stick shift 2007 R in Ckassifieds in CAN for 12k CDN
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westu37
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Post by westu37 »

I checked out the 2009 XC70 T6 that was near me. ($6400 with 134k miles) It looks like it was in an accident and not yet repaired. the Right rear wheel is pushed in about an inch, the body is wrinckled in the area between the rear side window and the liftgate. So that one is not worth the buy-in for me.

The search now continues; I'm concentrating on 05-07 XC70.

And BTW; I conducted an experiment on Gran Turismo using the XC70 specs on the S60 in the game, and comparing it to the Outback XT as a Legacy GT wagon in the game. My lap times were only 1 second slower on average for the Volvo, so that is a win in my book, especially when 208 hp/240tq and 250lbs heavier than the Subaru's 275hp/270tq in the game. The stock S60 T5 power level in the game was having me me beat the Subie by about .500-.800 seconds on my laps.

I know, not the same as the real thing, but it is a close enough spec for me to know that even the Polestar specs on the 06-07 models should feel close to my old Subaru.

Wes

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Post by BlackBart »

'07 "Lava Sand Metallic" with genuine Pacific NW pedigree. 84k miles. Tidy.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2007-volvo-xc70/
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty

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Post by reverend »

I whipped up a little buyer's guide here;
https://www.robdiesel.com/wordpress/201 ... ers-guide/

Basically, I'd aim for a 2007 XC70 - but test drive it first. If you think you can live with how it drives, you'll like it more and more with a proper tune (I put the Polestar tune on mine, the transmission programming was the best part).
They're FWD-until-it-slips, so if you're used to the symmetrical AWD or RWD, they'll be a little disappointing.

ARound 100K miles it'll need a suspension overhaul, PCV and I think the timing belt/water pump and related items are around 120K. It'll cost a little, but then you're back to a great car. The headlamps are plastic and will need replacement when they fade.
Aftermarket is shit (and the OEM ones aren't amazing either), so get OEM replacements and if you drive in the dark a lot, get a QPax bar and a couple of driving lights.


They're cheap to buy, cheap to insure, cheap parts and easy to work on. Not much to dislike, really. I had a fuel pressure sensor go bad (replaced with a junkyard part, took 5 min) and a CV boot tore and I replaced the axle.

Oh, and a coil went bad on me. That's it for unexpected non-maintenance items. Not too shabby for 175K miles.

westu37
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Post by westu37 »

BlackBart wrote: 16 Sep 2020, 16:02 '07 "Lava Sand Metallic" with genuine Pacific NW pedigree. 84k miles. Tidy.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2007-volvo-xc70/
Nice XC, but I'm in the Northeast US. I'm in the tri-state area, so I figure my search will take me to CT, VT, NH for a longer trip, but I'm looking in NJ, NY, PA for now.

westu37
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Post by westu37 »

reverend wrote: 16 Sep 2020, 21:47 I whipped up a little buyer's guide here;
https://www.robdiesel.com/wordpress/201 ... ers-guide/

Basically, I'd aim for a 2007 XC70 - but test drive it first. If you think you can live with how it drives, you'll like it more and more with a proper tune (I put the Polestar tune on mine, the transmission programming was the best part).
They're FWD-until-it-slips, so if you're used to the symmetrical AWD or RWD, they'll be a little disappointing.

ARound 100K miles it'll need a suspension overhaul, PCV and I think the timing belt/water pump and related items are around 120K. It'll cost a little, but then you're back to a great car. The headlamps are plastic and will need replacement when they fade.
Aftermarket is shit (and the OEM ones aren't amazing either), so get OEM replacements and if you drive in the dark a lot, get a QPax bar and a couple of driving lights.


They're cheap to buy, cheap to insure, cheap parts and easy to work on. Not much to dislike, really. I had a fuel pressure sensor go bad (replaced with a junkyard part, took 5 min) and a CV boot tore and I replaced the axle.

Oh, and a coil went bad on me. That's it for unexpected non-maintenance items. Not too shabby for 175K miles.
Like I said, I did some laps in Gran Turismo with my target vehicles. In the game the Volvo had some understeer/dive in the initial turns, but the throttle out has some good push. I was able to push the subaru in the game, and it felt better, but the Volvo gave me better lap times with the power level around 300hp.

My personal feel without driving the XC70 yet, and just using the specs on paper, I think the Polestar tune will make me satisfied with the vehicle for the short term. So I will stage 0 and other maintenance. Then sway bars (with input the R model front sway, HD links front and rear and IPD rear) and some dedicated sport/summer tires and a set of winter wheels/snow tires.

My Subaru experience has me vigilant for well cared for vehicles as the ones to buy. The neglected ones always lead to more problems (Subaru ej25 engines are notourious for head gaskets with neglected cooing system service, piston ringland failures with turbo models and poor oil maintenance/crappy fuel) I went through the ringland failure on my wife's 2010 Forester XT (it now has a new longblock)

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Post by - Pete - »

I would keep your options open for tunes & spend plenty of time reading up on the various tuners websites. Even submit questions to them if anything is unclear. After trying a few different tunes myself, I feel Polestar is a bit overpriced for what you end up with (compared to other tuners software). I’m not saying it’s bad in any way, simply stating that you can get more and spend less.

On an LPT 2.5T I feel the least expensive, biggest bang for your buck (after achieving stage 0) is a catted downpipe, resonator delete, and a stage 1 or 2 tune. I say “stage 1 or 2 tune...” because some tuners “stage 2” tune is comparable to other tuners “stage 1” tune. Another nice addition would be a retired S60R/V70R catback deleted exhaust. You still likely won’t outrun an unmodified/untuned R, but you’ll be impressed with the oomph the little LPT can offer.

Honestly, I don’t think numbers matter so much as if you like the way the car feels and that you like the way it delivers power. 300 at the wheels is quite a bit. Not unachievable but if you are using most of that regularly you will wear stuff out at an accelerated rate. Keep a good spare bevel gear and new collar sleeve on hand. :)

I would respectfully stick with a P2 simply because I’ve had pleasant experiences repairing them and haven’t run into much that was horrific (other than needing to replace a flywheel). There are many unpleasant tasks that you will encounter but there is support here for those times when your car makes you want to hang yourself!

I don’t see why you couldn’t put XC70 struts into an R. Aside from spoofing the active chassis modules you would need the longer XC fitment control arms and possibly CV axles, sway bar end links, tie rod ends and longer brake hoses. I believe it would need to be an 04-05 VR with the AW trans. The 06-07 auto R’s have the Volvo 6-speed transmission and it has different CV axles than the ones used in the 04-05 XC’s.
2001 V70XC 200k
2004 V70 AWD 174k
2004 V70R M66 147k
2004 XC70 361k
1995 F250 7.3PSD 262k
2014 Ram 3500 DRW 116k

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Post by abscate »

westu37 wrote: 17 Sep 2020, 05:28
BlackBart wrote: 16 Sep 2020, 16:02 '07 "Lava Sand Metallic" with genuine Pacific NW pedigree. 84k miles. Tidy.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2007-volvo-xc70/
Nice XC, but I'm in the Northeast US. I'm in the tri-state area, so I figure my search will take me to CT, VT, NH for a longer trip, but I'm looking in NJ, NY, PA for now.
You can buy Dirks V70 in CT for a small piece of budget, get into the Volvo mindset until you find the right T5 or R for go-power.

Trouble is, you can get hooked on those silky smooth P2s NAs and their ridiculous gas mileage.
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westu37
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Post by westu37 »

- Pete - wrote: 17 Sep 2020, 12:10 I would keep your options open for tunes & spend plenty of time reading up on the various tuners websites. Even submit questions to them if anything is unclear. After trying a few different tunes myself, I feel Polestar is a bit overpriced for what you end up with (compared to other tuners software). I’m not saying it’s bad in any way, simply stating that you can get more and spend less.

On an LPT 2.5T I feel the least expensive, biggest bang for your buck (after achieving stage 0) is a catted downpipe, resonator delete, and a stage 1 or 2 tune. I say “stage 1 or 2 tune...” because some tuners “stage 2” tune is comparable to other tuners “stage 1” tune. Another nice addition would be a retired S60R/V70R catback deleted exhaust. You still likely won’t outrun an unmodified/untuned R, but you’ll be impressed with the oomph the little LPT can offer.

Honestly, I don’t think numbers matter so much as if you like the way the car feels and that you like the way it delivers power. 300 at the wheels is quite a bit. Not unachievable but if you are using most of that regularly you will wear stuff out at an accelerated rate. Keep a good spare bevel gear and new collar sleeve on hand. :)

I would respectfully stick with a P2 simply because I’ve had pleasant experiences repairing them and haven’t run into much that was horrific (other than needing to replace a flywheel). There are many unpleasant tasks that you will encounter but there is support here for those times when your car makes you want to hang yourself!

I don’t see why you couldn’t put XC70 struts into an R. Aside from spoofing the active chassis modules you would need the longer XC fitment control arms and possibly CV axles, sway bar end links, tie rod ends and longer brake hoses. I believe it would need to be an 04-05 VR with the AW trans. The 06-07 auto R’s have the Volvo 6-speed transmission and it has different CV axles than the ones used in the 04-05 XC’s.

So let me clarify; when I'm talking about power numbers I refer to the crank ratings not wheel HP. So when I say R level 300HP I mean at the crank. I think the low pressure turbo is fine for the short term for me anyway. I was considering a Toyota Matrix, Volvo XC70 or older Subaru Outback XT. I must be getting older because I'm getting more comfortable with comfort vs performance. I just want to have some passing power on the highway, especially while in mountainous/ hilly areas (nothing feels better than sleight throttle pulls up-hill passing people like they're standing still)

The "spoofing' of the electronic suspension was an idea, and I'm still not opposed to a v70R, but they are out of the budget I want to spend. I want to keep the vehicle purchase price under $6k and under 150k miles; the R models I've seen at that price level have 200k+ miles. This vehicle is planned to be at least a 5-10 year vehicle for me, while I continue to restore/modify my 1967 Ford Country Sedan.

It just seems like for the price I can get the XC70 a little cheaper than the Outback XT, and with just a tune, get the same power level. (the Subaru's will always feel quicker because of the 4.44:1 final gear ratio vs the Volvo 2.65:1?)

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