What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[5rivers]

Using a small jack, I raised the sway bar link to put pressure on the tapered part of the link, as you recommended abscate, and with an impact driver and a 16mm socket, the nut came off after some prodding!

Also, with the jack I raised the tie rod end where it connects to the knuckle, and after a minute or so of heat, more PB blaster, and some pounding with a sledge hammer, the tie rod end finally came free!!! Thank you, abscate, for your recommendations on getting these unbolted!!

I was not having any luck with getting good access to the rear/lower motor mount, so I removed the bolts to the sway bar on the driver's side. That was a good exercise in being patient - not much room there to wiggle a ratchet and socket. But finally got those two bolts out with a deep well 14mm socket and from underneath the car, an open end 14mm wrench. This gave me a bit more room to access the bolt to the mount.

I went back underneath the car to try to break free the 14mm bolt to the bottom of the rear mount. The socket did spin to no avail; the top of the bolt is now rounded Now to try to remove the "beaver tail" covering the motor mount. The bolt holding that onto the motor is really rusted so I sprayed more PB blaster on that bolt head. After about 15 minutes, I put a 14mm socket on the bolt head, and the socket turned but not the bolt. Another rounded bolt head. I'm really being challenged here! Raised the motor a bit more and was able to pull out most of the old motor mount from underneath the car. I say "most" because the bottom part of the mount is still attached to the bottom bolt. I am hoping more PB blaster on what is left of the mount will help in the removal process. Tomorrow I will see what kind of room I have to drill out the bottom part of the mount and extract the bolt.

I did manage to tap (hammer is more like it) a 13mm open end wrench onto the beaver tail bolt head and with a cheater bar was able to break the bolt free. But now the wrench is stuck on the bolt head Another challenge to tackle tomorrow!

Tonight, I'll cut the power steering lines using some bolt/wire cutters so they will drain overnight. Then in the morning I can cut back the lines to give me a bit more room to tackle the mount. I am determined!! Stay tuned!!:))

[June]

Took her into Volvo for a realignment and to have her battery checked. It turned out the battery was in the beginning stages of death. I wonder how long the factory alternator and starter will last? 205K and counting! So new battery and alignment has her completely sorted. Last week they put a new driver side axle and the week before that new Michelin Primacy Touring A/S tires and a oil change.

The Primacy Touring A/S is the new Primacy series all season tire to replace the Primacy MXM4 all season. By far the tread is the quietest i have ever experienced. So far the grip is excellent, ride is firm, and handling is nice. I really wanted the new Primacy 4 Summer tire, but Michelin had none available in the new Primacy 4 or the old Primacy 3. They really have dropped the ball this year! June

[abscate]

Using a small jack, I raised the sway bar link to put pressure on the tapered part of the link, as you recommended abscate, and with an impact driver and a 16mm socket, the nut came off after some prodding!

Also, with the jack I raised the tie rod end where it connects to the knuckle, and after a minute or so of heat, more PB blaster, and some pounding with a sledge hammer, the tie rod end finally came free!!! Thank you, abscate, for your recommendations on getting these unbolted!!

I was not having any luck with getting good access to the rear/lower motor mount, so I removed the bolts to the sway bar on the driver's side. That was a good exercise in being patient - not much room there to wiggle a ratchet and socket. But finally got those two bolts out with a deep well 14mm socket and from underneath the car, an open end 14mm wrench. This gave me a bit more room to access the bolt to the mount.

I went back underneath the car to try to break free the 14mm bolt to the bottom of the rear mount. The socket did spin to no avail; the top of the bolt is now rounded Now to try to remove the "beaver tail" covering the motor mount. The bolt holding that onto the motor is really rusted so I sprayed more PB blaster on that bolt head. After about 15 minutes, I put a 14mm socket on the bolt head, and the socket turned but not the bolt. Another rounded bolt head. I'm really being challenged here! Raised the motor a bit more and was able to pull out most of the old motor mount from underneath the car. I say "most" because the bottom part of the mount is still attached to the bottom bolt. I am hoping more PB blaster on what is left of the mount will help in the removal process. Tomorrow I will see what kind of room I have to drill out the bottom part of the mount and extract the bolt.

I did manage to tap (hammer is more like it) a 13mm open end wrench onto the beaver tail bolt head and with a cheater bar was able to break the bolt free. But now the wrench is stuck on the bolt head Another challenge to tackle tomorrow!

Tonight, I'll cut the power steering lines using some bolt/wire cutters so they will drain overnight. Then in the morning I can cut back the lines to give me a bit more room to tackle the mount. I am determined!! Stay tuned!!:))

Nice! I think wisechatmgr invented this technique to give full credit.

I just got a set of rounded nut tools to try on Ms Abscate Bavarian Money Waster, will let you know how they go.

[abscate]

Swapped my clutch sensor today, and of course it STILL spikes the revs on shifts if I'm heavy on the throttle. Really odd... is this normal?

If you had the battery disconnected it will take a while for the adaptive to relearn on ME7, in my experience

If your CBV diaphragm is weak, or if the vacuum hose is leaky, that will also delay pulloff from lifting - not good for turbo either

If you hear the PHUT PHIT PHUT when you lift that’s the CBV ( not) working

[bmdubya1198]

If you had the battery disconnected it will take a while for the adaptive to relearn on ME7, in my experience

If your CBV diaphragm is weak, or if the vacuum hose is leaky, that will also delay pulloff from lifting - not good for turbo either

If you hear the PHUT PHIT PHUT when you lift that’s the CBV ( not) working

CBV is all good, it's electronic. If I unplug the clutch sensor, it doesn't do it. It's REALLY annoying on hard acceleration.

Have you ever looked at the clutch sensor position on VIDA? Just curious what others' cars read. With the clutch fully released, it shows around 70%. The sensor goes from engaged to disengaged around 60%, then fully depressed it reads around 21%. Seems normal given the amount of travel the sensor has, but I just want to make sure the nub didn't get messed up when I had to reattach it.

[brunocerous]

A very good friend of mine has a habit of buying parts for a job and then finding out he bought them earlier. I have found sticking with a single vendor reduces the Factor Chance Probability.

I'm glad I'm not the only one!

[duke1]

Please use stops on sentences and paragraphs on topics per Forum rules.

Oxford commas show class, verve, and elan; truly properties we covet.

hi guessing this aimed at me?i have ocd and tend to write as i think and honestly is it legible?my computer is like me old and worn has many keys missing and im not great at remembering where they are,the letters are there all bar the w. anyhow sorry if my grammar offends.
no rain so still dont know if cleaning the scuttles stopped the water from coming in,but sure enough to rain soon

[abscate]

The rules apply to everyone, so it is aimed at everyone. Part of maintaining the expertise here is avoiding ‘text talk’ and the prattle on Facebook.

A short sentence fragment in reply to someone is fine, we don’t need Queens English, but run-ons will get a polite cease-and desist.

[scot850]

Picked up a set of 850R Volan rims from another 'old' guy in town with good M & S tries on them. I had found that the rims I am running on the 00 V70R are actually too wide (8J/8"). I believe the Thor rims were from a S80 and not an S60 as I was told when buying them. 7.5" is the safest widest rim to use with the 225/45/17 tires. Winters are softer sidewalls so with the wider rim allowed them to rub on the rubber collars around the rear brake pipes!!

The Volans have same tire width which is the maximum safe width on a 7J/7" rim. Rims have some curbing damage but good enough for winter rims for now.

Annoyingly I had the Thor rims re-finished(powder coated) and they are still excellent but will have to sell on at a loss.

The older gentleman I got the rims from used to change his Volvos every 2 years due to mileage he traveled. He stopped buying Volvos other than the S70 he has had for many years around 2000. He says they are too expensive, to complex and too un-reliable. He used to work as a shuttle driver for the local Volvo dealer but got fed up listening to all the owners complaining about the number and cost of repairs.

He offered me a pile of old Volvo brochures from the 80's and 90's in perfect condition including accessory brochures. I am passing these to Matt so they can go to a good home!

Neil.

[brunocerous]

Went back in to try to figure out the no-crank situation with the ’98 T5, checking all the fuses and relays, cleaning the starter wire, and removing the battery to look for loose cables. I tried to crank it after each step, and it was reinstalling the battery that finally did it. Possibly a loose ground somewhere, I guess. Then I went to pick up pizza for the family (without turning off the V70).