Engine oil cooler line replacement DIY guide

[mecheng]

...but it wouldn't seat properly despite tightening the bracket and yes I did flip the bracket...

Did you gently bend the bracket before installing it? This should stop the leak.

I put in in a vise and closed the vise, it straightened it but not perfectly, so I flipped it around figuring the shape will help it hold the line.

Should I make it perfectly flat or just buy a new one?

Did you install the 0-ring on the line or inside the thermostat. I used new o-rings, they are quite tight.

[cn90]

- New Green O-rings from dealer installed on the line side.
- The bracket, bend it so it is a bit concave, then fit it. I posted photos in another thread, can't remember where these photos are.

[mecheng]

- New Green O-rings from dealer installed on the line side.
- The bracket, bend it so it is a bit concave, then fit it. I posted photos in another thread, can't remember where these photos are.

I did both, I think this time I will bend it perfectly flat.

[cn90]

Flat will make it worse.
On a curve plate, the concave part faces away from the oil thermostat housing, for obvious reasons.
Make sure you have proper orientation when fitting the curved plate.

Option I just thought about now: find a copper washer with the same I.D. as the O-ring. Fit the copper washer between the pipe and the O-ring.
This will ensure the O-ring is squeezed better.

[mecheng]

Update: I removed the oil lines and both green o-rings were torn and they were brand new! I noticed the 'lead-in' for the o-rings was rough due to some corrosion, i filed it smooth. I think the issue is when the o-rings are getting pushed in, they got torn.

Questions: has anybody inserted the green o ring into the thermostat and then pushed the lines into the thermostat. I tried but I couldn't do it! This would avoid any rubber o ring failure?

For those who insert the o-ring onto the oil line, does the bracket and screw fully seat the o-ring, or are you able to do it just by hand.

Did anybody notice any corrosion and sharp edges on the thermostat like I did?

This stupid thing is making me mad. I also ordered a new bracket 3528200 because it wasn't allowing me to insert the lines with it installed, when I removed it I got the lines in. I'm hoping a new one will cure this, I don't want to waste any more time on this, I think the Volvo gods are trying to punish me for the curse words last night

[mecheng]

To help others and update this thread.

I sanded the lead-in area for the o-rings to prevent them from getting damaged. The thermostat is aluminum I believe so it doesn't take much force and make sure you use a fine file or sandpaper. It appears to have worked, there is no leak. Because it sits low and is exposed to moisture, a rough surface develops not only on the lead-in for o rings but also the mating surface for the bracket, I also sanded it smooth.
I think that is why others have complained, the o-rings get damaged upon installation or they have a leak after installation. You can't see the damage to the o ring unless you remove it and look close.

I also purchased a new bracket which I highly recommend as they start to bend and weaken after repeated use, it was only $5. The bracket sits nice and flat and has no bend to it.

Take head, as I'm sure this would help you. I wish I knew this in advance.

[Gerd]

Just did my lines. Got a lot of great info here and only have one question. I finished the job and no leaks but could NOT get that *&^%*^% 10mm bolt back in the engine. I only hope someday to be sitting in Sweden and having a casual conversation with some guy who tells me he used to be a engine design engineer for Volvo in the 90s. I will end up in jail for sure. Anyway, do I really need that bolt in there?

[Gerd]

And like mecheng (post above mine) says, the thermostat cleaning took me a solid 2 hours. Brake clean - nope. Baking soda/vinegar - nope. Easy off - nope. Gunk grease remover - nope. WetandDry sandpaper (2000 grit) - nope. Finally gave in and got out the emery cloth and even then it took me an hour to smooth out the entry to the thermostat for the O Rings.
Like I said though - no leaks so hopefully same way in a week, and a month, and a year etc.

[Gerd]

I gotta tell you jreed, that you are either the luckiest volvo mechanic in the world or you have the smallest hands of anyone I have ever met. I have spent hours and hours and hours try8ing trying to figure out a way to get that 10mm bolt back in and no joy. Seriously, if I thought the design engineer who created that monstrosity would be reading this I would tell him he should be shot with a ball of his own S^%t. I would tell him/her they are dumber than dogs*&t except that is probably insulting to dogs**t.
As a layman, I can easily think of a half dozen ways to attach those lines that wold be workable. I am still not convinced that all they need isn't just a spacer. A rubber spacer between them.
I can see the bolt trying to turn into the block. I even pulled the lines out of the way and couldn't get it started. I used to love Volvo. This is my 3rd. MY LAST!

[abscate]

If you read up thread someone eased out one of the AC compressor bolts to make access to that M6 easier

It sounds like

M6 1/4 inch drive
Tight accesss sockets
Wobbles
Flexible extensions after cracking

Are all in order