1998 Volvo S70 T5 - Cruise Control Brake Switch

[Gerd]

So tried a few times to get the rear of the housing to stay locked into the front of the housing. No go. The overall piece stays locked into the aluminum bracket but both the plunger and rear of housing moved back. So zip tied the rear of the housing to the font of the housing so it is just the plunger moving. Still wouldn't work without the brake pedal being pulled up. It looks like the contact on the plunger isn't connecting unless it is on there with force.
So I think I need a new part. Unless I am missing something...

[RickHaleParker]

I would change the part. If it where mine. I would pick one from a junk yard and hopefully be done with it today.

[Gerd]

I’ll have a look and see how many vehicles that part is in.

Good idea thanks.

[RickHaleParker]

I’ll have a look and see how many vehicles that part is in.

On a manual it is on the clutch pedal.

Volvo 850 1993 - 1997.

Volvo S40 2000 - 2004.
Volvo V40 2000 - 2004.

Volvo S70 1999 - 2000.
Volvo V70 1998 - 2000.
Volvo C70 1998 - 2004.

If you find a C70 get this from under the car and install it on your S70.
It will stiffed up the S70 and it will handle much better.
You will need to get two new of the larger bolts for a C70. They are stretch to yield and longer then the S70 bolts.

[Gerd]

I have seem those bars. Good idea. After you mentioned the junkyard, I made a list of things I could use if I came across them. I'll put this on the list.

I am 'off' for at least a few days as apparently I need the covid test. So will get at this asap but in due time.

Thanks again Rick

[Gerd]

So an update - finally. Things have been happening with my poor old car. Detailed it inside and out and was very happy with outcome ... until I noticed the rad leaking a bit. So ordered one from FCP. I should have planned ahead and gotten oil cooler lines while I was at it. My error.
Putting rad in, one the the pre-pressed 'nuts' that hold the rad in place was a spinner. So had to go buy a mini pair of vise grips as it isn't a nut but looks like a thick threaded washer.
Got that done and ... one of my engine oil cooler lines started leaking. Ugh. Tough job if you see the other forums on it. Mostly over 1 bolt on the engine. I did it today and no leaks but still didn't get that bolt back in.
Anyway, back to this forum. I had something weird happen to my hood as the little arm that holds the middle release fell off. I had to monkey around with that for a bit but after I got it open, I thought I may as well change that cruise control switch while I was waiting for parts. But I was still a little wound up over the hood I think because as I took Brake pedal switch off I broke it on way out. Off to the wreckers. Got one for $5.50 so not a big deal. But when I went back under, I tried adjusting Cruise Control plunger out. Went for a test drive today and - Bingo - Cruise Control works now.
So I still need to get that 10mm bolt back on the engine. Then do a little soldering on ECU for that irritating P0410 code. And then it is just tracking down a (P0455) vacuum hose leak that I think will be on the Fuel Pump as that is the most ignorant spot it can be.

[scot850]

Sounds like some positive progress finally! On a 98 the most likely sot is the charcoal canister which should be up in front of the LHF wheel tucked up between the bumper and the inner fender plastic liner. If it it not there then it is a later model and under the passenger side rear foot well. tucked up and is in a swine of a place to get to. There are 2 pipe that split. The 'J' hose and then there is another just forward of that from a 't" that runs to the back of the car.

Neil.

[Gerd]

Yeah, I seem to recall the 2nd one you mentioned. All those hoses have to be changed sooner rather than later anyway. Ill have a look but temps are getting a bit beyond working outside now so it might turn into a job in the Spring.
Thanks for the heads up.