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Timing belt tensioner jumping S60 base 2.4

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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algopyguy
Posts: 30
Joined: 3 October 2020
Year and Model: 2002 S60 2.4 Base
Location: Maine

Timing belt tensioner jumping S60 base 2.4

Post by algopyguy »

As you can see from the video my tensioner is kinda all over the place.. That doesn't seem normal or is it? See video

Its a new tensioner and no bent prongs..

https://gofile.io/d/KjmLMd

Thanks for the assistant
Last edited by algopyguy on 26 Oct 2020, 16:21, edited 1 time in total.

algopyguy
Posts: 30
Joined: 3 October 2020
Year and Model: 2002 S60 2.4 Base
Location: Maine

Post by algopyguy »

Here's a pic of the tensioner
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20201026_140651_HDR.jpg
Last edited by algopyguy on 26 Oct 2020, 16:21, edited 1 time in total.

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

This is not the idler, it's the tensioner. That is not good at all. Was the engine warm of cold ? I would not drive the car anymore. It may be a faulty tensioner, but may also be another item - such as the water pump, that may be just about to seize, and that will damage the engine. If the belt and pulleys were recently replaced and a good brand was used - such as Contitech or Gates, you may try aligning the timing marks, removing the belt, and turning all pulleys by hand including the water pump. Use only Aisin water pump. Again, to me this looks urgent.

algopyguy
Posts: 30
Joined: 3 October 2020
Year and Model: 2002 S60 2.4 Base
Location: Maine

Post by algopyguy »

oragex wrote: 26 Oct 2020, 16:18 This is not the idler, it's the tensioner. That is not good at all. Was the engine warm of cold ? I would not drive the car anymore. It may be a faulty tensioner, but may also be another item - such as the water pump, that may be just about to seize, and that will damage the engine. If the belt and pulleys were recently replaced and a good brand was used - such as Contitech or Gates, you may try aligning the timing marks, removing the belt, and turning all pulleys by hand including the water pump. Use only Aisin water pump. Again, to me this looks urgent.
I just did a belt, tensioner replacement.. Tensioner is brand new, just wondering if I didn't set the tension properly?

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

Look like it is doing what it suppose to do, maintaining constant tension in an environment that is inconsistent.

Did you take the indicator past the set mark then come back to the set mark and torque the bolt?
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
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algopyguy
Posts: 30
Joined: 3 October 2020
Year and Model: 2002 S60 2.4 Base
Location: Maine

Post by algopyguy »

RickHaleParker wrote: 26 Oct 2020, 16:53 Look like it is doing what it suppose to do, maintaining constant tension in an environment that is inconsistent.

Did you take the indicator past the set mark then come back to the set mark and torque the bolt?
I used alen key and went counter clockwise until then back clockwise to the position i needed to set it to.. my issue is how far counterclockwise do i need to go until i go back clockwise? Also I installed the tensioner (which was room temp 68-70deg) on a cold engine that was 45-50degs in a cold garage all night.. So maybe that is the issue?

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

algopyguy wrote: 26 Oct 2020, 18:02 I used alen key and went counter clockwise until then back clockwise to the position i needed to set it to.. my issue is how far counterclockwise do i need to go until i go back clockwise? Also I installed the tensioner (which was room temp 68-70deg) on a cold engine that was 45-50degs in a cold garage all night.. So maybe that is the issue?
Turn the allen past the 50°C mark then come back.

I would of put the tensioner on the engine and let it reach the same temperature as the engine. That way there is no ΔT between the engine and tensioner. With no ΔT there no energy transfer to change the temperature of the tensioner.

Start the engine. Watch the temperature until it reaches 50°C (120°F). Shut the engine off and look at the indicator is. It should be at or near the 50°C mark. If so leave it alone. A no contact Infrared Thermometer on the tensioner would be a good way to measure the temperature.
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

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darrylrobert
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Post by darrylrobert »

mine did that (not as bad) when i got the car, change the belt first and only use genuine volvo parts. I think mine was the belt or VVT cam pulley not sure because i changed them at same time.
1981 260 GLE converted to 240 M46 after auto box failure
1987 740t auto converted to M47
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darrylrobert
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Post by darrylrobert »

oh and my belt was walking around badly to which was alot more worrying than the tensioner moving. all fixed now and running smooth as.again only use volvo parts
1981 260 GLE converted to 240 M46 after auto box failure
1987 740t auto converted to M47
1997 V70t5 auto converted to M56
1998 V70 factory M56 (parts car)
2001 XC70 factory M58
2002 XC70 auto (parts car)

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Post by abscate »

If the engine is missing the tensioner will move like that. I think Rick is right, the tensioner is ok, it’s seeing some change in tension from the drivetrain
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