I'm still tackling some of the easy Volvo S80 repairs and have replaced the Upper Right Torque Rod Engine mount and Right Eng Mount. I didn't have a lot of vibration and noise except that dealer told me I needed new wheel bearing and I thought I'd eliminate any other potential noise makers before tackling that.
On inspection my Upper Right Torque Rod Mount had a significant crack in the rubber bushing and the Engine mount below it was considerably compressed. As I believed these were both original I went ahead and replaced them. I'm sharing some observations and pictures.
The Right Engine Mount was considerably compressed and once removed the rubber membrane at it's bottom was intact but made a "squishy" sound when manipulated by my fingers. I also could hear air escaping when pushing it however there was no sign of oil leakage except for a few drops when I squeezed it firmly.
Install was straight forward. And the pictures follow. Of course they are out of order...sorry.
One tip: I had to jack engine up more than I thought I'd have too in order for the top engine mount bolt hole to align with the top mounting plate above.
Volvo S80 3.2 Right Eng Mounts Replaced 125k
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Volvo S80 3.2 Right Engine Mounts Replaced 125k
- Skymongrel
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- Year and Model: 2023 XC90, S80 2007
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Carboy
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- Year and Model: 2007 s80
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Hi
I am looking to change the engine mounts on my 2007 S80 3.2.
The rubber in the upper torque strut elastomer was completely separated and changing that out was a relatively simple task.
Did not improve the ungodly rattle at idle and under load.
I’m pretty sure all mounts need to be changed but I thought I would start with the easiest one first.
Could you direct me too a remove and replace procedure for the front hydromount?
(When one torque reaction mount separates it adds more torque load to the other mounts)
Thx
Dave
I am looking to change the engine mounts on my 2007 S80 3.2.
The rubber in the upper torque strut elastomer was completely separated and changing that out was a relatively simple task.
Did not improve the ungodly rattle at idle and under load.
I’m pretty sure all mounts need to be changed but I thought I would start with the easiest one first.
Could you direct me too a remove and replace procedure for the front hydromount?
(When one torque reaction mount separates it adds more torque load to the other mounts)
Thx
Dave
- pgill
- Posts: 798
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- Year and Model: 2010 S80, 2008 LR2
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The XC90 is similar but not identical to my S80 3.2 and LR2 3.2
The differences are minor
This link shows what I did for my P3s
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32979.html
Good luck
Paul
The differences are minor
This link shows what I did for my P3s
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32979.html
Good luck
Paul
- Skymongrel
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Dave, sorry I haven't changed the other mounts. Let us know if you change them and how the noise improves! Probably have to do this soon myself.
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Carboy
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Thx Paul
Link was informative.
My only other question is;
In order to lift the powertrain up high enough to install the new taller mount (un-collapsed mount ) was it necessary to pull the thru-bolt out of the lower torque reaction mount (small mount located below the upper torque strut that is attached to the cradle)?
Link was informative.
My only other question is;
In order to lift the powertrain up high enough to install the new taller mount (un-collapsed mount ) was it necessary to pull the thru-bolt out of the lower torque reaction mount (small mount located below the upper torque strut that is attached to the cradle)?
- pgill
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I think you are asking.
Can the Dog bone be replaced without lifting the engine?
(For my S80 and LR2 yes)

The XC90 is slightly different than the S80 or LR2
So I can't answer for the XC90
I've only done this on my LR2 and S80
Let me know if I misunderstood your question.
Thanks
Paul
Can the Dog bone be replaced without lifting the engine?
(For my S80 and LR2 yes)
The XC90 is slightly different than the S80 or LR2
So I can't answer for the XC90
I've only done this on my LR2 and S80
Let me know if I misunderstood your question.
Thanks
Paul
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Carboy
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No the mount I am referring to is almost directly below the large end of the torque strut.
It is a non-hydraulic torque reaction mount.
I wonder if I have to remove this attachment in order to lift the engine up high enough since it is located between the cradle and the engine and could stop the engine from being jacked up high enough away from the car body.
I assume since you are unclear that you did not have to remove the attachment on this lower mount in order to replace the passenger side hydraulic mount. (See red arrow for aforementioned mount)
It is a non-hydraulic torque reaction mount.
I wonder if I have to remove this attachment in order to lift the engine up high enough since it is located between the cradle and the engine and could stop the engine from being jacked up high enough away from the car body.
I assume since you are unclear that you did not have to remove the attachment on this lower mount in order to replace the passenger side hydraulic mount. (See red arrow for aforementioned mount)
- pgill
- Posts: 798
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I just lifted mine without removing or loosing that mount.
Note: you don't have to lift it high only about 12.5 mm (if those are useful units) or half an inch (in units that are more familiar to me).
Good luck
Paul
Note: you don't have to lift it high only about 12.5 mm (if those are useful units) or half an inch (in units that are more familiar to me).
Good luck
Paul
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Carboy
- Posts: 7
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I replaced the right hand side hydromount.
What a difference this makes!!
The engine mount was so badly damaged that the engine side bracket and the body side mount metals were touching all the time.
The rubber element was unable to support the engine mass.
The result of this failure made it continuously sound like a diesel engine without mufflers under all operating conditions. The upper torque strut had failed prior to this Hydromount change This makes sense the Hydromount was not designed to react engine torque only vertical loads but since the torque strut failed the hydromount ended up reacting the engine torque on the top side of the engine which probably exacerbated it’s demise.
Very pleased with the results
Following figures show the old Hydromount next to the new Hydromount and The witness marks of where the engine side bracket contacted the body side Hydromount metal which eliminates any hope of power train isolation.
What a difference this makes!!
The engine mount was so badly damaged that the engine side bracket and the body side mount metals were touching all the time.
The rubber element was unable to support the engine mass.
The result of this failure made it continuously sound like a diesel engine without mufflers under all operating conditions. The upper torque strut had failed prior to this Hydromount change This makes sense the Hydromount was not designed to react engine torque only vertical loads but since the torque strut failed the hydromount ended up reacting the engine torque on the top side of the engine which probably exacerbated it’s demise.
Very pleased with the results
Following figures show the old Hydromount next to the new Hydromount and The witness marks of where the engine side bracket contacted the body side Hydromount metal which eliminates any hope of power train isolation.
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