Rear engine mount - sway bar in the way
Rear engine mount - sway bar in the way
I replaced the front one of the two large engine mounts. That went without problems. But I can´t get the bottom bolt of the rear mount out. The sway bar is in the way and I can´t even get the socket up to the bolt. What´s the trick?
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You need a real thin walled socket, then it will fit with a short u-joint immediately after the socket and a 8 inch extension. You might as well also disconnect the torque bar across the engine on the top and the right passenger side engine mount because you will need to jack the engine up a little ( 2 inches) to get it out once the bolt is out.
There was a good video online of someone doing this on an S-60 which is essentially the same. it's real easy once you've got some more room in there to work. Good Luck, report back.
There was a good video online of someone doing this on an S-60 which is essentially the same. it's real easy once you've got some more room in there to work. Good Luck, report back.
2003 XC 70, 2007 Duramax LBZ.
- SuperHerman
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The way I managed it on my XC90, which has the same space restriction from the sound of it, was to use a 3/8 inch extension and socket. Put socket above bar and onto bolt/nut, and then run the extension up. On the XC90 it was a straight shot, but if it is not you could do the same with a wobble extension. You will need both hands - one to hold the socket and the other the extender.
- chris11211
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You need another person with a decent pry bar in order to flex the sway bar out of the way just enough to get to the bolt with a 13mm or whatever
swivel socket. The same swivel socket thats on the FCP video; though i don't think you'd want to buy the snap on variat for the absurd price.
What we also did was to remove the aluminum piece that is sitting on top of the acorn mount and is attached to the transmission. This requires a lot of maneuvering with the floor jack. This is just a different method than to just get at it from the side and possibly damage the nut on top.
swivel socket. The same swivel socket thats on the FCP video; though i don't think you'd want to buy the snap on variat for the absurd price.
What we also did was to remove the aluminum piece that is sitting on top of the acorn mount and is attached to the transmission. This requires a lot of maneuvering with the floor jack. This is just a different method than to just get at it from the side and possibly damage the nut on top.
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There's a pretty good video on YouTube by SiRobb that shows how to do it. You're just going to have to get a bit creative to get the socket between the sway bar and up to the bolt, I used a standard 3/8 Craftsman 13mm socket and u-joint and extension, it fits......but just barely. I'm wondering if you loosen the rear subframe mounts a bit that you might gain just enough clearance? that would be worth a try and easy to do. Remember, you will have to lift the motor up to get the old one out and the new one in. Good luck.
2003 XC 70, 2007 Duramax LBZ.
- chris11211
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If the top nut of the acorn mount is too difficult or damaged then you need to remove the associated aluminum piece that sits on it and is being held by 3 or 4 screws.
Listen you don't have to loosen anything with the sway bar, that's just extra work. And the problem with loosening the subframe is that the sway bar is still in the way an it's just more work than you need.
You do have the easier FWD right? If you do then find a volunteer with a pry bar and have them bend the sway bar out of the way - it is flexible. This is how you get to it without doing even more dangerous work.
And if you are going to loosen the subframe bolt then you'll have to buy the replacement.
I understand. Just need a tiny bit of of more space. I will try to carefully bend the sway bar to get that. Top nut is already out (and back on) so all that is left is that lower bolt. This weekends task! Thank you all! Will be back with the results
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