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850 Hydraulic clutch Issue

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Chuck W
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Re: 850 Hydraulic clutch Issue

Post by Chuck W »

The clutch fork does have some side-to-side play by default. Not a lot, but some. Your car is pretty low on km, so it's hard to imagine that being worn. Especially worn enough to cause problems. The (used) parts in my car have more than double that, without issue.

Phone a friend. Grab a stranger. You need an extra set of eyes or feet to better investigate this issue, as really you're just guessing at it, without actually seeing what happens.
Take a video of how much the clutch forks moves (without the slave cylinder installed), that could also be of useful reference to those of us not there with you. You could probably set up a cell phone camera to record a video while you press the pedal as well.

Air wouldn't cause the piston to pop out. It's going to compress more than the fluid, and result in reduced clutch actuation, not more, or add side-to-side movement.
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
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manovlov
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Post by manovlov »

Chuck W wrote: 11 Nov 2020, 07:26 The clutch fork does have some side-to-side play by default. Not a lot, but some.
Okay. Let's consider that the fork is okay, also its internal clip and pin.
Chuck W wrote: 11 Nov 2020, 07:26 Air wouldn't cause the piston to pop out. It's going to compress more than the fluid, and result in reduced clutch actuation, not more, or add side-to-side movement.
Okay : so the last possibility is a hose which in bad plugged.
Capture d’écran 2020-11-11 à 16.03.06.png
Capture d’écran 2020-11-11 à 16.03.06.png (101.72 KiB) Viewed 874 times
My Volvo dealer says :
N°1 come from the pedal. In fact, if the clutch fails, the brakes circuit stays full, which sounds correct to me.

Shall i reverse N°2 & N° 3 ?
1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56

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Chuck W
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Post by Chuck W »

There should be no connection at the reservoir to the clutch slave. The clutch slave is only connected to the master. The master is connected to the reservoir and fed via gravity.

The slave should only have the port for the connection to the clutch master and the bleeder screw. How are you connecting an additional hose to it?
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.

The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6

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Post by manovlov »

I thank you to follow my history...

When I press the slave cylinder via its piston using the clutch fork, the pressure sends fluide to the reservoir. Otherwise, how could I make air bubble get out ?
1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56

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Chuck W
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Post by Chuck W »

manovlov wrote: 11 Nov 2020, 08:39 I thank you to follow my history...

When I press the slave cylinder via its piston using the clutch fork, the pressure sends fluide to the reservoir. Otherwise, how could I make air bubble get out ?
Those air bubbles travel back through the line to the clutch master cylinder (at the pedal) and from there travel up to the reservoir.
There is no direct connection from clutch slave to the reservoir. The clutch system has only 1 connection to the reservoir, and that is at the clutch master. If you have 2 connections at the reservoir, there is something wrong.

Also, pushing on the clutch slave isn't the way to bleed the system (at least not well). The reverse bleed method I posted earlier in your thread (using a syringe and NOT the pushing on the slave cylinder piston) forces all of the air in the slave back out through the master and out into the reservoir.
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.

The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6

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manovlov
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Post by manovlov »

Chuck W wrote: 11 Nov 2020, 09:27 [If you have 2 connections at the reservoir, there is something wrong.
Does it help to understand the circuit ?
Circuit Dot.png
Circuit Dot.png (45.79 KiB) Viewed 853 times
Reservoir Dot.png
Reservoir Dot.png (164.69 KiB) Viewed 853 times
1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56

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Chuck W
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Post by Chuck W »

Yes, I understand how the circuit is supposed to work, and that diagram isn't it.

How are you attaching 2 hoses to that slave cylinder? It's no different than any of the others, and it has a connection from the clutch master (at the pedal) and a bleeder nipple. That's it. Where are you connecting that other hose from the reservoir?
Here is the clutch slave in my car. The only connection is from the clutch master.
Image

It works like any other hydraulic pressure circuit, like your brakes. There is a fixed "column" of fluid between the master and the slave. When the piston in the master is pushed/released, it moves the column of fluid and moves the slave piston in/out.
The diagram you show doesn't make any sense, as the slave cylinder doesn't need a reservoir connected to it. That would just cause problems.
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.

The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6

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Post by volvolugnut »

How about setting up a camera or phone to record the clutch action on video? Use tape to hold in proper position. Then you do not need a helper to observe.
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Post by abscate »

manovlov wrote: 24 Aug 2020, 01:13
Azik09 wrote: 23 Aug 2020, 12:42
manovlov wrote: 22 Aug 2020, 03:47 Is there a hydraulic pump excepting the steering wheel one, to put the clutch lines under pressure ? Do I have to make the engine run to test properly this installation ?
No for both questions.
Try to bleed it "from below". Take a medical syringe of 20 ccm or greater and a hose which can be fitted to syringe and nipple on the slave cylinder. Then:
Slacken nipple and tight it back slightly
Open fluid reservoire cap.
Connect syringe (filled with fluid) to the nipple, slacken it and push fluid SLOWLY to the cylinder.
Close nipple.
Repeat this until you see fluid raising in reservoire without air bubbles. Remove an excess fluid from reservoir using a syringe. After this your clitch should operate correct, if there is no other defects.
Hy,

Thanks for the advice. I've found that which may correspond to your explanation right ?



Thanks again.

Manov
Bumping this as Grunhilde’s clutch won’t bleed with traditional method, will move to this video approsch
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Post by abscate »

Well, here is a tasty tidbit.

Three failed attempts to bleed the clutch, getting some action but then losing it.

Finally I set it up to gravity bleed to try and get the air out. I noticed that the fluid level dropped very little, like 1.5-2 cm

A flash of inspiration. The clutch pickup tune extends well up into the reservoir so the brake master cylinder reservoir has to be full to overflowing to bleed the clutch. I was basically pushing fluid through until the tube sucked air, then destroying my bleed process.
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