Intermittent Starting Issue with Excessive Cranking During Cold Weather Topic is solved

[abscate]

Svieks!

Have you replaced the coolant temperature sensor (ETC) with a Volvo one? Do not use aftermarket parts here, for the ETC

[jonesg]

Hello everyone,

I have the same problem on my 2005 XC90 T5 engine for a couple of years now, engine cranks and strutters in low temperature, but no start. So far I have replaced starter, checked ETM, MAF, fuel pressure, fuel pump, installed new battery, new crankcase ventilation, tried 95 and 98 octane fuel, starter fluid, brake fluid (you name it) and checked with OBD scan tool (daily), Launch diagnostics and Vida Dice all the parameters that I could think of. Now what I have done to bypass this problem, is that I have put 1kohm resistor between the wires at the coolant temperature sensor (sensor unplugged and 1kohm resistor in the socket), this tells the car that the engine is about 30 degrees C. That starts the car, which is still a rough start, but better than car not starting at all. After starting I usually plug the engine temp sensor back in and everything goes to normal (have to delete codes from brain). Another solution is to heat the coolant up to 16 degrees C with the webasto system and then the car starts like a charm.
However all this seems very temperature related, before the starter change the temperature was exactly 6 degrees C, now this year it has gone down to -6C. Also this happens only during "Open loop" starting scenario. When car is using O2 sensor for starting in closed loop everything is fine.
I have found some posts to say that this is due to turbo leakage, however I personally can't find any leakage myself.

If somebody has a solution (have been googling that problem for well over a year now and there seems to be a lot of problems but no solution) I would be more than welcome to try it. It is no fun to have a no starting car in winter when there is almost no sun.

Have you tested the 02 sensor?

[VTs70T5M]

This issue is a literal nightmare...
Mine had the jumpy tach with cpk code.
Went the route most did first and replaced sensor.
Did nothing...
Then read fault trace in vida which explains the interference check.
Rerouted starter wire away from sensor harness.
Checked all grounds including trans to chassis, checked all bellhousing bolts.
Finally replaced starter cleaned etm while manifold was off might as well, and all was well for about 2 weeks.
Then it returned but no jumpy tach and no cpk code.
Now it takes 4 cranks avg cold and sometimes 2 or 3 tries of 6 or 7 cranks when warm ambient or engine temp.
Fuel pressure 55psi at rail at key on.
New fuel filter new plugs new coils.
Warms normally 5-10 min to full temp gauge goes to 12 oclock fan kicks on gauge never moves above or below.
No codes on vida except occasional immobilizer which is read anytime a bad start occurs.
Sometimes finally starts with reduced engine performance message which always goes away after about a min of running.
Had found my fuel rail was loose on passenger side injector looked a little wet around the O ring.
Tightened it up shut it down and restarted perfect yaaa.
But noooo next restart same issue.
So far new starter new coils new plugs new intake gasket and charge pipe for original lean idle which is now gone. New purge valve for low flow code which is now gone. New crank sensor new crank sensor bracket. Added ground to trans cleaned all other grounds evem used guitar emi tape around sensor harness.
Also new/used maf even though no codes!!!
Idk what else to try..
Either starter windings were short lived or etm cleaning temp resolved.
But the jumpy tach is no longer present just the hard start.
Once running doesn't skip a beat runs awesome drives awesome gets 25mpg highway and shifts beautiful and its an 04 xc90 t6!! With 203k!! Lol.. Has none of problems it should and the only one I can't figure out.
I love my 98 s70 t5 manual... Ive dumped almost 12k into the p80. Rn swap, r manifold, hybrid turbo, meth injection, snabb pipe, rip kit, wideband, injectors, dw pump, full stainless turbo back, ported intake, ported 7cm angled housing, vast tuned to 23psi etc etc. That car has never left me stranded other then a single instance with a cam sensor which was easy and been flawless since. And eats most modern cars alive..
I was a volvo lover who's beginning to hate anything newer then 98 lol..

[E Showell]

Have you changed the engine coolant temperature sensor? That has been a source of hard starts for me.

[oragex]

No codes on vida except occasional immobilizer which is read anytime a bad start occurs.

The antenna ring sensor may have a bad green connector, try pushing it in or wiggle when it doesn't start

[nucci480]

Did we come up with a solution to this problem? I am having the same issues.

[multinectar]

One way I found to bypass this issue is to put 1kohm resistor instead of the coolant temp sensor.
However this issue is still relevant for me (...T2 engine. Have replaced coolant sensor, crankshaft sensor, tried maf sensors and lots more, still no fix..

[jonesg]

One way I found to bypass this issue is to put 1kohm resistor instead of the coolant temp sensor.
However this issue is still relevant for me (...T2 engine. Have replaced coolant sensor, crankshaft sensor, tried maf sensors and lots more, still no fix..

I would try pulling and monitoring the plugs during balky cranking.
If they're sparking ok backprobe the injector connectors and watch for pulse or use a noid light.

[abscate]

There are six different hard start problems in this thread with different symptoms.

That why we start a new thread for each problem with title format:

Model year : Model : Problem

Rather than adding to an old topic

[suwit]

Hello everyone.
Sorry, English is my 3rd language.
S70 2000. Hard to start with tach jump. If no tach jump, starting was very easy.

Fuel pressure is OK

Shield the CKP sensor wire. Did not help.

Added ground wire from Battery to transmission. This was improved the speed of the starter but did not help the long start with Tach jump. Adding this wire decrease voltage at starter connectors about 0.7 volt

Change the CKP sensor . Did not help.

Lifted the CKP sensor from the hole. while start the engine, the tach was not jump This is the High Light

Swap ECU from good car. While cranking the tach still jump.

Take video into the CKP sensor hole, while cranking the flywheel is flapping .

Take out flywheel. Attach with good one. It was bent about 2mm.

Change flywheel. The hard to start and tach jump is gone.