98 V70 GLT cam cover install advice?

NoisyBard · Post by **NoisyBard** » 01 Feb 2021, 11:33

I finally get around to tackling my valve stem seal problem. The project appears to be cursed to some degree. Snapping a head bolt is never a good omen. That issue is resolved, head came back from machine shop, and torquing it down went smoothly

When I went to torque down the cam cover, I followed the instructions, working inside out in a pattern, making each bolt finger tight then 1/4 of a turn. It went down easily with no creaks or pops or odd sounds, but because of the cam lobe positions, the cylinder 4/5 end was propped up by the valves a bit longer while the cylinder 1 end settled almost immediately. I used feather light pressure on a tiny 6" ratchet so I hope I didn't mess anything up. It evened out and went down straight afterwards.

But the cams felt completely locked up once I finished. I swear I could turn them a bit by hand back when I disassembled the engine. Any tips on getting the cover to settle down more evenly against the pressure of the valve springs? Any idea why they could have locked up? Crank and cam timing marks are all correct. I used assembly lube on bearings and lobes, and rolled the anaerobic sealant on correctly. I already pulled the cover back off and see nothing obviously wrong.

Any advice would be appreciated. The most involved repair I've done before this was a PCV and vacuum hose replacement. This job has been kicking my butt in ways I didn't expect that none of the many guides and videos I've consulted have warned about.

Post by **abscate** » 01 Feb 2021, 12:44

They will still feel tight as you turn them but you should be able to turn them a bit m perhaps with a screwdriver in the hub screws as a lever. It’s pretty hard to put them in incorrectly as the bearings have to go in the right place

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 02 Feb 2021, 06:19

If they have the cam locking tool on them, you won't be able to turn them. They must be in the right position during reinstallation or you'll regret it nearly instantly.

Post by **abscate** » 02 Feb 2021, 18:01

Of course, they have To go in with the sprockets showing the correct position at the rear, are you doing that ?

NoisyBard · Post by **NoisyBard** » 03 Feb 2021, 12:24

Thanks for the replies!

I did not use a cam locking tool, as I don't have VVT and kept reading it was not needed.

Both cams were in the correct orientation based on the sprocket marks lining up with the timing belt cover marks and the slots are the rear parallel to the seam of the cam cover. The exhaust cam rolled a few degrees as I torqued down, but I've also heard that was normal.

It seems that I was simply not applying enough torque to the cams to get them to move. I was simply gripping the sprockets by hand and trying to wiggle them. Perhaps they had settled slightly when I took the belt off during initial disassembly, so that gave the illusion they could turn a few degrees by hand.

Given what's at stake and how this project flip flops between items needing WAY more force than I expect, or seeming way too fragile, I've lost a lot of confidence in whether I can judge if I'm being too rough or too nice to any given part.

Work has been so busy I haven't gotten back to trying again. I'll update when I do.

Post by **abscate** » 03 Feb 2021, 12:54

I’m not gorilla strong but turning cams against the valves via hand on pulley is possible but tough for me.

I use a screwdriver as a lever against two installed bolts in the hub. Gently, just a bit of rotation.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 03 Feb 2021, 22:08

You could also grab on the sprockets with a strap wrench if needed...

NoisyBard · Post by **NoisyBard** » 06 Feb 2021, 15:23

Update!

Cam cover round two was a success! Both cams turn smoothly with the larger lever of a strap wrench. Now I can set timing and continue with the assembly. Thank you all for your words of wisdom!