is this the end

[dollydumptruck]

hi all/
i think my mate is dying, my mate being my 2004 volvo v70 bi-fuel. i bought the car back in 2011, it has been by far the best car i ever owned. i really dont want to lose this car, but it has been diagnosed with rms leak, im getting around a saucer size stain on my drive every morning.
it is not worth the 1k repair bill to fix. my question is -- could i still run the car if i keep an eye on the oil levels, or is there a way to fix without engine and transmission removal. any thoughts most welcome.

[abscate]

You can try a bottle of the leak stop like ATP or Lucas, but that size leak is too big for seal swelling to help.

I would spend 1k to restore a well running car in a heartbeat. It’s false to say you buy the same car for 1k, you buy a lot of unknowns.

You can run it meantime by watching oil level closely and putting a pan on the driveway.

[darrylrobert]

1000 pounds sterling? thats alot.

[RickHaleParker]

1000 pounds sterling? thats alot.

Depends on if he taking money or currency.

[Blacklab467]

I feel the same way about my '03 XC. I bought it as a winter beater but came to love it and over a few years fixed everything wrong with it and put about $3000 in parts, not to mention labour. I really enjoy driving it and would easily say it's the best car I've owned. I continually shop the classifieds for a lower mileage one or one in better shape but know all the parts I'd have to change to make it as good as the one I have.
I think you should repair your car. Maybe investigate doing the job yourself or source out a cheaper quote. There's something to be said for staying with a car you know and trust, even if it costs you a few bucks. You could find another XC 70 but you never know what skeletons it might have hiding in the closet. From what I understand, It's not an unreasonable job to pull the engine in these cars.

[abscate]

You could fix by lowering the engine and transmission and separating under that car with about an engine brace ( $75) and about 12 hours labor

Or use of those neat DIY rental places for about 200 quid

I’m exactly in the same place with the head job and steering rack for my 1999 T5. It’s not an economical repair vs a replacement, but replacing a HPT T5M isn’t easy

[cn90]

- It depends on the mileage.

- If you have 100K-120K (my 1998 S70 GLT leaked at that point). Repair bill was 8h of labor charge.
Make sure you use ONLY Volvo seals bc this is a big job. Replace also the Trans seals.

- If you have > 300K, the car is close to the end of useful life, then up to you what to do (repair vs junk it).

- For me $1K repair for an otherwise good car is worth it bc it is still better than new car payment. Plus you keep the mechanic busy (he has to feed his family too) during the pandemic, a lot of ppl are looking for work at this pandemic time...

[dollydumptruck]

hi all/
and thanks for your replies, the volvo has 240k miles on the clock, i have tried the lucas stop leak, no joy. i would be looking at around £1000 sterling give or take to do the rms leak (if thats what it is ) it was diagnosed by a good volvo mechanic (only by sight, and not on a lift) it will be a very sad day if and when she dies on me, but the repairs keep mounting up, only today over £100 for new battery. i have engine warning light and abs light on which cost money to remove and also will no longer pass an mot. but i know the engine will just keep going and going, because of the lpg being a clean fuel, i could prob get another 200k out of her. i now understand how people become attached to cars.

[jonesg]

hi all/
and thanks for your replies, the volvo has 240k miles on the clock, i have tried the lucas stop leak, no joy. i would be looking at around £1000 sterling give or take to do the rms leak (if thats what it is ) it was diagnosed by a good volvo mechanic (only by sight, and not on a lift) it will be a very sad day if and when she dies on me, but the repairs keep mounting up, only today over £100 for new battery. i have engine warning light and abs light on which cost money to remove and also will no longer pass an mot. but i know the engine will just keep going and going, because of the lpg being a clean fuel, i could prob get another 200k out of her. i now understand how people become attached to cars.

if the eventual plan is to junk it what do you have to lose trying it yourself.
If you fail its junk, if you don't try its still junk.
Its not as complicated as you think. No need to yank the motor, tranny should drop out the bottom.
Watch this,

[- Pete -]

It really is a tough call, especially if this is your first experience in looking at a repair on your P2 that involves a substantial amount of labor. If not providing that labor yourself or sharing it amongst a couple friends, the cost goes through the roof to pay a shop to do it. $1,300-$1,400 USD is a totally fair price for this job. I would do it for far less if I were to charge a fellow Volvo owner for the repair, but that is absolutely what you would expect to pay a decent shop for the job.

What would drive me nuts is that a $30 USD oil seal is determining the fate of your beloved car, which would certainly cough up at least another 100k miles or more of good, safe, reliable & comfortable service. This is all based on me assuming you have minded your P’s & Q’s of its maintenance over the years. If it’s been neglected, however, it may not be worthwhile to pursue.

If you decide to undertake the repair, you will certainly want to have the RMS seal installing tool. I purchased one a while ago hoping that if I had one on hand I’d never need to use it. I don’t recall where I got it or how much it was, but I do recall VTL posted one recently that looked very nice and was rather inexpensive.

Bottom line is the transmission will need to come out to replace the seal. To drop the transmission you’ll need to drop the subframe. None of it is very daunting once you are in the thick of it, especially if you are used to working on things. It is a lengthy job & you will need to plan on taking plenty of sanity breaks. I did mine (trans removal & flywheel replacement) over the course of 2 days with help from one other guy, a transmission jack (which I borrowed) and my next door neighbors lift.

You can absolutely do it without a lift, but it will be a lot of up/down’s & creeper time. The engine will need to be suspended. Engine bridges are pretty inexpensive & you’d likely be able to resell it for what you bought it for. I think mine was $60 USD or so.

I’d certainly expect to get much more than 300k out of a dual fuel P2.