Replacing AWD fuel pump.

[foggydogg]

Then I used the 20 ga. pump to fix the other part of the problem.

That’s a bit of overkill, isn’t it? Was there anything left to clean up?

Actually used the 10/22 on a couple, but couldn't get to it in a timely fashion for one or 2. Left the cadavers for the foxes. Plus, it seems to send a message to the survivors to move on.
The 20 ga. is mostly for the ongoing beaver war.

[Jamvo]

Don't mind my butcher job... It was a beater and Im not planning to get rid of it except parts so! but the three lines above the arrow. One broke and sprayed something.. hoping it's something I can manage.

If you can see exactly where the break is, Dorman/Help line has a hard-line repair kit with barbed "unions", I used them to fix squirrel damage to the pressure line under my T5.
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-16446-800-012.aspx
Heat shrink covered the gap, Oetiker clamps for belt-and-suspender comfort.
Then I used the 20 ga. pump to fix the other part of the problem.

I think it’s the best bet, the line switches between the non-metal and these. So may be able to replace the section.. I’m also worried about rusty stuff getting into the injectors if I do.. Since I believe this is the to the engine line. But I suppose I can bleed the line where it meets the rail. Thanks

[Jamvo]

In the picture, The right line runs over the front of the tank to the other side of the 'saddle tank' to the ejector 'pump'. Not really a pump but more of a pressure balancer that helps transfer fuel to the pump side. Black thing in the center is the fuel pump wires and middle green pipe is the return feed from the engine if I recall. Left pipe is the fuel pipe to the fuel filter. Missing is the fuel pipe to the engine which is removed further up on the tank with the silver pressure regulator.

Be aware many fuel pipe for AWD are now NLA so some creative manufacture may be required and also much cheaper then OE if you can find them.

Neil.

[abscate]

You can bleed really well if you use a forcep or thin pliers and crank out the valve on the Schrader fuel rail fitting - then you can flow any big chunkies up and out. 100 ml or so should flush the hard lines adequately.

[Jamvo]

You can bleed really well if you use a forcep or thin pliers and crank out the valve on the Schrader fuel rail fitting - then you can flow any big chunkies up and out. 100 ml or so should flush the hard lines adequately.

Thanks I think I’ll be going with the splice option, Cars currently in my apartment parking lot and I don’t think they’d approve of working on it out there so been avoiding putting it on Jack, but as far as I can tell rust is only really bad in the one spot that broke.

I’ll update on this endeavor when I can. Supposed to get a snow storm now tomorrow so might be this weekend at the earliest. Was almost all dry around the car finally too.