Where exactly is the catalytic converter

[BeeVolvo]

I find this thread gives me some hope. I have had my CEL coming on and off for awhile and every time it was the cats, P0240 and P0230. Then the CEL started staying on. Last year in March, my shop gave me a verbal estimate of $8,000 to fix it, and kinda hinted that perhaps I needed to look elsewhere to fix it. So now another year has gone by because COVID came and the State of MD cut me a break on getting my emissions test done but now the State is insisting that my 2011 Volvo XC90 get tested! Sigh! At 170K on the mileage, I certainly don’t want to spend the money to buy new CATs, so in reading this thread, I am thinking to do a big tune up by replacing the plugs with the recommended ones, replace the thermostat, PCV value, and intake gaskets. I am also thinking to replace the four O2 sensors too since I am already having to muck with the exhaust system to replace those darn gaskets! Also getting a code for a miss in cylinder 6, missed start, electrical control unit, etc, all a year old now. The car burns a quart of oil every oil change of 7000 miles. Any ideas on my hope to avoid spending big bucks plan to pass the emissions test? Car runs fine with the CEL on, but can’t pass test with it lit up.

[pgill]

P0240 and P0230.
2011 Volvo XC90 170K
I certainly don’t want to spend the money to buy new CATs
- replacing the plugs with the recommended ones
- replace the thermostat,
- PCV value,
- and intake gaskets.
Also getting a code for a miss in cylinder 6
The car burns a quart of oil every oil change of 7000 miles.
Any ideas?

You are getting catalyst efficiency codes for both banks

I recommend that you do the things that I quoted from your post.

If the PCV is broken it can easily set a misfire code on cylinder 6 (the PCV channel gets to cylinder 6 first) and a broken PCV can also result in a lot of oil burning.

I am assuming that you have the 3.2 and not the 3.0T, if that is the case then you can use the LR2 Land Rover parts if they are cheaper. (some parts are common to 3.2 and 3.0T but not the PCV)

Let me know if you want the part numbers and I can look them up for you.

While you are in there you should change the O-ring on the oil fill cap and clean the MAF.

Then you will need to drive it

Good luck

Paul

[RickHaleParker]

Any ideas on my hope to avoid spending big bucks plan to pass the emissions test?

P0230 & P0240 is the wiring to the injectors or the injectors on cylinder #3 & #4.
Misfire on # 6. Any of these three can certainly keep it from passing emissions.

I would start with cleaning the electrical connectors to all six injectors and inspect/test the wiring to all six for shorts and opens. Change the plugs. Then see where things are at.

At 170K a set of remanufactured OEM injectors is a good idea. Same for the O2 sensors. Use the correct Bosch O2 sensors.

[pgill]

MVS Readers,

If you are having the catalyst efficiency problem you will want to make sure that you 3.2 or 3.0T is running properly before you replace something expensive (i.e. the converter)

Start with the Spark plugs and PCV valve

If sparkplug #6 (the one closest to the AC compressor) is black and Spark Plug 1 isn't then the PCV is the likely culprit.

Also a misfire on #6 is likely due to a failed PCV

Note: if the sparkplug that is significantly different is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and its the only one then the root cause is likely not the PCV

From the TJ If Engine Control Module (ECM) DTC P030000 and/or ECM P030600 are
present and if spark plug # 6 and in some cases also # 5 show significantly more
deposits and have more soot than the other cylinders, it is very likely that the engine, at
some point, has been overfilled with oil or is consuming oil via the Positive Crankcase
Ventilation (PCV) system. The DTCs indicate that oil has been consumed in the engine
causing misfires (above mentioned DTCs).

These sparkplugs look normal

Broken PCV

If the PCV is broken then oil may be present in the location shown

Oil_PCV_trap_2.jpg (257.96 KiB) Viewed 1593 times

When I replaced my PCV it looked more like this
Note: I replaced mine as part of my preventative maintenance plan.

Oil_PCV_trap.jpg (54.15 KiB) Viewed 1593 times

Post pictures (sparkplugs numbered 1 to 6 and the PCV oil trap) here and then I can make more suggestions about what to fix


Take care

Paul

[SuperHerman]

Pgill gives excellent advice. Pay attention to the condition of the spark plugs you remove. Also look down the spark plug well with a flash light and look at the piston tops. If you have an oil burn condition you will see oil fouled plugs and oily piston tops.

This can be due to the rings being worn, your mileage is not that terrible and your oil loss not that great, so it is a possibility. A compression test and leak down test would be helpful. This is the overall health of your engine.

As mentioned the PCV system could also be the cause of the oil and needs investigation.

Regardless your cats could be oil fouled and this is causing them to code. I have not had luck with cat cleaner solvents. With a mirror or camera, with the O2 sensor removed you can get a small look at your cats - you should be able to see if the center portion is caked with oil.

Above is what to look for if the other solutions do not provide relief. You can investigate the same while doing the other maintenance.

One other item - short trips are not nice to the cats. You need to get them up to temperature so they can burn off contaminants.

[toolpusher]

Hello, I am buying the parts to do the thermostat. Do you recommend genuine Volvo or can I go with Mahle or Rein aftermarket?

[pgill]

For my $$$ and time I went with original parts only for the Thermostat

Note: the 3.2 was built at the FORD factory and the thermostat is the same for VOLVO and LAND ROVER

The parts supplier that I use for my Land Rover parts charges about $98 for the Thermostat and they ship for free if you buy over $99. If you want to go this route let me know and I will suggest something inexpensive that you can get to go over the $99 limit. Note: when checking out you have to be careful to select the free shipping. (Tampa Land Rover Parts)

LR006071 Is the Land Rover part number (this is what I installed on my 2010 S80 and my 2008 LR2)

31355151 Is the Volvo part number, if it’s cheaper I would get the part in a Volvo box


Good luck

Paul

[toolpusher]

Finally found the time to start working on. Replace the spark plugs. Pretty shocked to see how they turned out, considering they were replaced with the coils approximately 1 1/2 years ago, when first one coil failed and then shortly after another one.

The photos show also the shaft of cylinder number one. The other shafts don’t look that bad.

Also, what I forgot to mention. The engine consumes quite a bit of oil, 0.5 to 1 quart per 1000 miles. The engine has done that for the last couple of years.

[pgill]

Toolpusher,

I replied about the PCV on your other thread.

I did notice one difference between these sparkplugs and the other ones.

At the interface of of ceramic to the metal you have evidence of arcing on cylinder #1 #2

To prevent this I use dielectric grease on the top of the ceramic to improve insulation. (the coil boot will push the grease down during installation)

The grease is more protective than air for preventing arcing.


I have a sparkplug socket without an insert and a spring loaded magnet that allows me to hold the sparkplug by the top electrode so that I can coat the ceramic with the grease and install the plug and then install the coil. Its very effective. Most people don't go to this level of detail. I will admit that I can be a bit paranoid. But "ONLY THE PARANOID SURVIVE"

To make it work I need a small spacer as well

One of these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CM ... UTF8&psc=1

Plus one of these (and a small spacer)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K ... UTF8&psc=1

and some of this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A ... UTF8&psc=1

Note:

A 1 mm air gap will with stand about 3,000 volts

A 1 mm thickness of dielectri9c grease will with stand about 40,000 volts

Good luck

Paul

[toolpusher]

With Cata clean, I bought myself another year. But now the code is coming back. I saw a lot of videos about fuel trim and the voltage measured on the second sensors. I am trying to make sense of the live data that I captured in the video below, but I can’t. For me both sensors jump up and down. But I only get error code P0420, so bank 1.



Any ideas?