Please help liberate this tie rod

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 25 Apr 2021, 17:06

The %#^$&#@^$%^$ nut/screw in the photo is the only thing preventing a rebuilt front suspension on my 2004 XC70. The nut/screw spin freely as a single unit with manual wrenching and an impact wrench on the nut has no effect except spinning faster. After two days of PB Blaster and more patience than I actually possess the fitting is much cleaner but seems no closer to allowing me to separate the nut from the screw and liberate the tie rod.

I know I will eventually win (as I did on the other side) but there must be a better way. I've been using a simple wrench on the end-flats of the inner threaded screw and an 18mm fairly long wrench on the nut. The problem is lack of a truly secure grip/hold on the flats of the threaded piece. Vice-Grips are no better.

Is there a better way to grip the screw? None of my impact or standard sockets fit the flats.

Cut it off with an angle grinder or something else?

Heat? I'd rather not set the vehicle ablaze.

Thanks for your wrenching wisdom.

Dave

: left front outer tie rod to steering knuckle; 2021-04-25 16.17.13_crop.jpg (304.35 KiB) Viewed 1152 times

Post by **MoVolvos** » 25 Apr 2021, 17:20

enotslim wrote: ↑25 Apr 2021, 17:06
Cut it off with an angle grinder or something else?

2021-04-25 16.17.13_crop.jpg

Cut one side or two sides of the nut or directly across the flat surface with a hacksaw or use a sander / grinder which ever can get into the space (Dremel).

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Post by **vtl** » 25 Apr 2021, 19:02

A blow torch? A few cycles of heat-cool contractions and it will give up.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 25 Apr 2021, 19:22

vtl wrote: ↑25 Apr 2021, 19:02 A blow torch? A few cycles of heat-cool contractions and it will give up.

Lots of heat to swells the stem of the tie rod also, so it does not spin in the knuckle or a quality vise grip for the tip of the tie rod thread to hold against the wrench on the nut after heating.

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Post by **abscate** » 26 Apr 2021, 01:45

Three separate heat cycles with propane on the nut, one minute each, with a few minutes cooling in between after three last cool, hit it with PB blaster or your favourite elixir......39 minute wait , and it will come off like magic. Dremel Is the backup plan. Those reinforced wheels will cut the bolt in about 3-5 minutes.

Post by **jonesg** » 26 Apr 2021, 02:24

off with its head.

Post by **oragex** » 26 Apr 2021, 07:55

Forget trying to remove the bolt, you will have the same issue with the lower end link bolt and maybe even with the upper one
This is a classic grinder moment but be sure to loosen the adjusting nut first at the inner tie rod , unless you are also replacing the inner one
IMPORTANT: careful how you grind it, not sure which way is best but do not damage the surface on the spindle side, because it will cause more problems - such as water infiltration at the threads and the future nut may even break loose while driving

Post by **vtl** » 26 Apr 2021, 08:01

I once made a mistake and installed new tie rod ends without any grease. In a year they froze dead, but heating them up with a blow torch, until the boot started to smoke and the rod itself glowing red they finally gave up. I replaced both tie rods and rod ends, this time using a lot of sticky marine grease.

Post by **jonesg** » 26 Apr 2021, 23:03

Seems like a candidate to try a nut splitter.

Post by **erikv11** » 27 Apr 2021, 08:51

Nut splitter! I have used it a few different suspension nuts, they work great. Cheap to buy, fast and effective to use.