'07 S80, 3.2, 110k - P0306, P003F Diagnostic Assistance Welcomed

[IronMike]

I've had many Volvo's with the 5 cylinder and a Bertone 262 with the PRV6. The 3.2 is new to me and I've done some of the basic engine maintenance on the XC60's 3.0 and my other S80's 3.2. You may remember me from the issue I have about 1.5 years ago where the engine shut down due to the bad tensioner bearing/water pump belt which is common for these engines. That was about 10k miles ago and that repair went well, thanks to Mr. Gill . During this repair I:

- Did a compression check and all were within range
- Scoped the cylinders and all looked rather well
- Put in new plugs
- Installed new valve cover/PCV
- Cleaned throttle plate
- Replaced the coolant reservoir which seemed to be dribbling

Started it up and drove it with great anxiety, yet it ran like a dream. Drove it for much of 2020 and ran really well, extremely smooth engine. About 6 months ago, went for inspection and failed due to crumpled exhaust connector pipes between catalytics and exhaust on both sides. Ran fine otherwise, go figure, didn't even really sound loud! Replaced entire system for $1000. Oh well, was worth keeping running after that major PITA effort to replace that belt the year before

Since then the car has been running extremely well again. Actually I've grown to like these luxury models and a joy to ride on the highway. Up until last week, hence this topic.

Started it up one morning and it seemed to be idling uneven/lumpy. Not at all like it was, which was ultra smooth. I opened the hood and disconnected each coils connector in turn and each one cause detriment to the idle so seems like this isn't an ignition misfire in the traditional sense. I get the feeling that "misfire" has a more generalized definition in Sweden - as in "something didn't work which caused a delay in cam getting to correct point as predicted by ECM". This could be injector issue so I did the same with the injectors and in turn each one made the idle much worse as I removed it. Sigh, was hoping for some diagnostic gold here.

Closed the hood and as I drove it seemed to get better and smooth out. Within 2 miles the idle smooth and things seemed normal. Same thing happened the next day, ugh. Figured maybe gas, temperature (it was freezing out) or... ???? Then, on the highway I accelerate hard to merge (these cars are quick!) then settle into the lane around 65mph and suddenly feel a "hiccup" as if there's a misfire. Then the Check Engine light comes on (who doesn't hate THAT?). Car was running OK, not as smooth and bit of a hesitation from stops. But I kept going and when I got to my destination pulled out my iCarsoft scanner from the trunk, which I was oddly excited to finally use for diagnostic purposes!

Pulled code P003F (intake VVT solenoid stuck) and P0306 (Misfire cylinder 6). Cleared the codes and same ones keep coming back. Pulled the VVT Solenoid out and cleaned it and the rubber o-rings were both in bad shape, esp. the bottom gaskety one which tore while I was putting it back on. So, I ordered a new VVT solenoid since clearly this one was from 2007 and the o-rings don't seem to be available individually. Checked the wiring and all looks well. The coils look original but in good shape and I will probably replace them just due to age). Installed the new solenoid. Erased the codes and also disconnected the battery. Reconnected the battery and fired it up.

Still started with lumpy feel and then the codes still return after driving a while. Guess it wasn't just the solenoid?

I swapped coil 6 with coil 2, cleared all the codes, etc. Drove it that next day and same codes come back. So maybe not the coil itself giving P0306.

What would you do next?

[pgill]

...thanks to Mr. Gill.........

- Did a compression check and all were within range
- Scoped the cylinders and all looked rather well
- Put in new plugs
- Installed new valve cover/PCV
- Cleaned throttle plate
- Replaced the coolant reservoir which seemed to be dribbling


Pulled code P003F (intake VVT solenoid stuck) and P0306 (Misfire cylinder 6).

What would you do next?

Mike,

I appreciate your acknowledging my help and I will try to help more

Here is what I would do. (in this order)

1. Swap the VVL (Variable Valve Lift) solenoids the one on the right controls 3,5,6 and the left controls 1,2,4
--- would do this even if it means that yo are swapping the part you replaced
------ I prefer know good vs. new

2. Remove and inspect spark plug number 6 (is it covered in oil? post pictures here)
--- I assume that you are using DENSO Iridium 4704 at the stock .040" gap (if not get one and install it in #6)

3. Reset the codes and drive with the dipstick lifted to release any combustion gases into the engine bay
--- this will bypass the PCV and allow you to test the rest of the engine
----- drive the same place that set the codes before

4. Swap injectors #6 to 1,2 or 4

5. Clean the MAF

6. Replace the fuel pressure sending unit

Start there and let us know.

Take care

Mr. Gill

[pgill]

Here are the parts that I am recommending that you swap

VVL.jpg (310.44 KiB) Viewed 4131 times

And these parts should look like this

VVL_2.jpg (15.11 KiB) Viewed 4131 times

If you removed the Variable Valve Timing instead of the Variable Valve lift then it will look like this

VVT.jpg (44.69 KiB) Viewed 4131 times

If this is the part that you removed and you need O-rings then get the Land Rover O-rings (they should work fine)

LR003093 for the bottom O-ring

I don't have a part number for the other O-ring

Take care

Paul

[IronMike]

Hey Paul,

The full code was ECM-P003F00 Intake (A) Camshaft Profile Control Stuck On (Bank 2). I replaced the single long VVT, which I believe is the correct one?

[IronMike]

Dude, I replaced the wrong one didn't I.

[IronMike]

Mike,

I appreciate your acknowledging my help and I will try to help more

THANK YOU! I've come to really like driving this old graceful model

Here is what I would do. (in this order)

1. Swap the VVL (Variable Valve Lift) solenoids the one on the right controls 3,5,6 and the left controls 1,2,4
--- would do this even if it means that yo are swapping the part you replaced
------ I prefer know good vs. new

Will do!

2. Remove and inspect spark plug number 6 (is it covered in oil? post pictures here)
--- I assume that you are using DENSO Iridium 4704 at the stock .040" gap (if not get one and install it in #6)

Bought new pack of plugs, will replace them anyway even though they only have 10k on them. You never know and not a big investment and going to pull them anyway. I got those exact plugs and will careful check gap before installing. Interesting to note that when I bought the car with 100k on it, I replaced the plugs and filters to get a baseline. The old plugs were the wrong ones! They were the ones for the previous years which had multiple grounding electrodes for each plug.

3. Reset the codes and drive with the dipstick lifted to release any combustion gases into the engine bay
--- this will bypass the PCV and allow you to test the rest of the engine
----- drive the same place that set the codes before

Great advice, thanks.

4. Swap injectors #6 to 1,2 or 4

Sounds non-trivial on this old car. Should I buy new seals if I'm going to pull the rail?

5. Clean the MAF

Done!

6. Replace the fuel pressure sending unit

Will do!

Start there and let us know.

Will do!

Take care

Mr. Gill

THANK YOU!

[IronMike]

Confirmed I replaced the wrong one. Was led astray by another poster in another thread/site along with the Carsoft code referencing the "Intake" so I focused on that other intake solenoid. Just removed the smaller one next to it and was total crap

[pgill]

Mike,

You are on the Path.

Just keep us informed of your progress.

Take Care

Paul

[IronMike]

Purchased two of the Doorman versions and replaced them and car runs great again. Thanks!