seized eccentric bolt/bushing rear control arm stay 2004 XC70

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 17 May 2021, 04:57

While attempting to replace a bent rear control arm stay, and the unbent stay on the other side, on 2004 XC70 I was not able to remove the eccentric bolt from the inner fittings on either side. I tried PB Blaster, heat and impact wrench over several days with time for penetration of PB Blaster. Nothing moved. I finally cut off the nut (not the bolt head as I originally posted) using an angle grinder as in the photos. Maybe not a good idea as the bolt is still seized. I also cannot exert rotational force on the bolt shaft without stressing the bushing.

Any suggestions for removing this bolt? Smacking with a punch proved pretty useless. The suggestions I found online are all pretty drastic including reciprocating saws on the bolt/bushing and using multiple blades. Air hammer applied to the nut on the other side of the bushing might work (if I had one) but I'm not optimistic.

Seems likely that these bushings will need to be replaced no matter how this eventually comes apart.

The outer bolts on these same stays came apart very easily but these inner eccentric bolts did not.

Thanks for reading.

: inner eccentric bolt seized, outer bolt free; Slide2.jpg (76.2 KiB) Viewed 2067 times

Post by **volvolugnut** » 17 May 2021, 12:02

Try heat, beat, treat and repeat process.

Something has to give.

volvolugnut

Post by **SuperHerman** » 17 May 2021, 20:11

I have fought this battle on my old Range Rover, Audi and Subaru. So far not on a Volvo.

The list you provided is about right. I have had the most success with cutting off the bolt end and hitting the bolt end with an impact wrench to get it to spin. Then spray and spin and spray and spin then pound and pound, and repeat. You can do the bolt end if that gives you the space you need. You can hit with impact wrench to tighten as it will just spin and the head is cut off.

Next approach, when this failed, was to drill a hole and keep going up sizes, while doing above.

If you have the space, Sawzall the bolt inside the mounts (two cuts). This is a first step if you have the space.

Basically the bolt has rust welded to the bushing metal and has become one piece. Once you get the arm off you can just push out the bushing the normal way so all is not lost.

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 17 May 2021, 22:02

OK, thanks. No room for an impact wrench or Sawzall without raising/ lowering something else. Might be simplest to cut the bolt head (already cut the nut and freed the eccentric washer) allowing the stay to be removed and then replace the bushing. The thing is I've never worked with bushings. Assuming a manual press is the way to go can you recommend one for purchase, rental or loan (like Autozone)? Not much clearance for a press but something must fit. And which is the correct replacement bushing?

Post by **SuperHerman** » 18 May 2021, 01:12

Is this what you are up against? Holy Cows what a mess. Tell me this is not your future.

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 18 May 2021, 05:58

Thanks for the link. My current issue is different and easier. The seized bushing is accessible from both sides. If an "official" manual bearing press won't work then an improvised set up as used in the link you sent should be possible.

Post by **abscate** » 18 May 2021, 08:15

If it’s that jammed the tool won’t help

How urgent is the project timeline, Dave? I’ve got portable MAPP Oxy that will remove anything metal

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 18 May 2021, 09:50

Thanks for the offer. (I take it you also have a really good fire extinguisher.)

If nothing else I think I can use an angle grinder to remove at least one face of the stay to fully expose one entire surface of the bushing with the stuck bolt. From there I should be able to drill into the rubber, if not drill out the bolt itself and then SawzAll the thing into submission (without damaging the cage that holds the bushing). I'd like to try this before burning it all down (figuratively speaking, of course).

And a tool or makeshift substitute would be useful to install a new bushing, correct?

It occurs to me that all those alignments I paid for after front end suspension work (that I also paid a lot for) done in the past probably did not start by aligning the rear end as Firestone attempted on my recent visit that initiated this whole process. Otherwise I doubt that these bushings that are essential participants in rear alignment would be in such bad shape. How long would they take to get this bad?

Post by **SuperHerman** » 18 May 2021, 20:36

You can also cut the trailing arm, grind as required. If you cut off both ends of the bolt it will just pry apart at the joint. Site sponsor has the OE Volvo arm for $75. May be the easiest approach. This will allow you to get to just the bushing which you can cut out like in the video. Leaving the bolt alone as it becomes irrelevant.

Sometimes one has to be extra destructive to be constructive.

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 19 May 2021, 15:59

I think that is what I meant.

After literally hours by phone and email with the parts departments of two different local Volvo dealer I think the correct bushing replacement may be part 31277952. They aren't sure but it's a best guess. ~$65 from Volvo. ~$25 from FCP and elsewhere.

If I entirely disable these stays by cutting them or in some other way will it be safe to replace the wheels and lower the car to the ground in preparation for towing? I want to know my options if I can't put things back together.

All I wanted to do was get a front end alignment.

Thanks.