What else while replacing front struts?

SkyVolvo · Post by **SkyVolvo** » 04 Jul 2021, 12:39

So I'm looking at replacing the front struts on my 2004 S60 2.5T. It's got about 177k on what I assume to be the originals, and it's a pretty rough go over any bumps in the road.

I don't have as much time to work on the car as I used to so I'm planning on getting the Sachs quick struts from IPD - either plain Sachs or the IPD kit ones. I've read what I can on the forums and I think I feel fine about getting these.

I know that technically I could do a lot of other things at the same time, but practically, are there other things I definitely SHOULD do at the same time? Sway bar end links seem like something that would be pretty cheap and quick to tackle at the same time although they're not giving me any trouble right now. Do I need to do anything with the rear suspension at all, or should I just let it be until I have an issue?

Thanks!

Post by **jonesg** » 04 Jul 2021, 15:06

I would check the ball joint whilst in there , tie rod end, inspect control arm bushing, if you can see metal through the rubber its going out. Brake pads too. Check end links. Use a pry bar to look for loosygoosy..
Make a list for future fitting.
End links can be a pain to remove, don't believe the videos, they're staged to sell parts.
My end links have allen rx in the threaded stud end.
I found the nut impossible wo loosen, geometry can be unsuitable for leverage.
Git it loose by using impact on the threaded stud, allen socket 3/8th drive whilst holding the nut.
https://www.amazon.com/LEXIVON-Socket-P ... =hi&sr=1-5

Post by **br0dy519** » 05 Jul 2021, 11:33

I would grab a couple of ABS tone rings to replace if yours haven't been replaced.

chris11211 · Post by **chris11211** » 05 Jul 2021, 13:50

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... s60-982870

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... nut-985660

Hardware sucks when it rusts. You also have to angle the two big bolts per strut so they would be stretched out anyways. It's also a case by case basis too, so if it's not rusted shut then the bolt could live with going another round.

All of the other parts are as needed since even a beginner could do the job, so if none of the rubber seals are broken then you can still ride them out until then, and the hardest part to work on is the ball joints because you'd need a proprietary tool due to the silly design, so if one's broken then definitely tackle them both.

Post by **jonesg** » 05 Jul 2021, 15:55

chris11211 wrote: ↑05 Jul 2021, 13:50 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... s60-982870

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... nut-985660

Hardware sucks when it rusts. You also have to angle the two big bolts per strut so they would be stretched out anyways. It's also a case by case basis too, so if it's not rusted shut then the bolt could live with going another round.

All of the other parts are as needed since even a beginner could do the job, so if none of the rubber seals are broken then you can still ride them out until then, and the hardest part to work on is the ball joints because you'd need a proprietary tool due to the silly design, so if one's broken then definitely tackle them both.

a small length of correct size pipe can drive the ball joint home, I did mine twice without any custom tool or pipe.
Knocked it out with a hammer and long chisel from the top, blasted new one in with the air hammer. I removed the knuckle to get better access.

Post by **erikv11** » 08 Jul 2021, 00:13

br0dy519 wrote: ↑05 Jul 2021, 11:33 I would grab a couple of ABS tone rings to replace if yours haven't been replaced.

How do you replace these, do you need to pop the axle out of the hub?

Post by **abscate** » 08 Jul 2021, 04:56

You don’t want quickstruts if you have long term, 100k mile plans for the car

Go with oe volvo for the rubber and mount parts or else they will be knocking in 20-25k. That’s where the cheap stuff fails.

Quick struts are sexy , quick low labor replacement but the marriage will end in a harsh divorce shortly