Login Register

850 Crankshaft pulley question Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

Post Reply
User avatar
Clemens
Posts: 1932
Joined: 3 September 2015
Year and Model: 96 855 R + 94 855 T5
Location: Austria
Has thanked: 473 times
Been thanked: 219 times

Re: 850 Crankshaft pulley question

Post by Clemens »

And remember, to get that 30mm nut off, you basically need an impact gun. It might be possible without one, but I wouldn't wanna try
Summer: 1996 855 R
Winter: 1994 855 T5M
Donor: 1995 854 10V

User avatar
volvolugnut
Posts: 6233
Joined: 19 January 2014
Year and Model: 2001 V70
Location: Oklahoma USA
Has thanked: 927 times
Been thanked: 1000 times

Post by volvolugnut »

To properly torque the 30mm nut back onto the crank you will need a means to hold the crank from turning. There are tools available to buy or you could make your own. Details available if you need more information.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

User avatar
manovlov
Posts: 1180
Joined: 6 July 2011
Year and Model: 1995 850 GLT 2.5 170
Location: Grenoble, France
Has thanked: 620 times
Been thanked: 143 times

Post by manovlov »

Salut Volvolugnut

If you have some plan of o tool to build DIY, i'm interested ...

I spend as much money for tools than for parts, at the end.

:D
1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56

User avatar
abscate
MVS Moderator
Posts: 35294
Joined: 17 February 2013
Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
Has thanked: 1504 times
Been thanked: 3817 times

Post by abscate »

Manov, you can put two long M6 bolts into the harmonic balancer holes and then counter hold with a stick or a long breaker bar
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread

Azik09
Posts: 133
Joined: 11 September 2014
Year and Model: S70 T5, 1997
Location: Russia, Caucasus
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 31 times

Post by Azik09 »

My way to hold any pulley in any direction using an old belt
Free end of a belt should be placed at any strong part of engine
Attachments
pulley1.jpg
pulley1.jpg (144.69 KiB) Viewed 610 times
pulley2.jpg
pulley2.jpg (337.67 KiB) Viewed 610 times
If my English is bad, please correct me :oops:

User avatar
manovlov
Posts: 1180
Joined: 6 July 2011
Year and Model: 1995 850 GLT 2.5 170
Location: Grenoble, France
Has thanked: 620 times
Been thanked: 143 times

Post by manovlov »

Azik09 wrote: 22 Jul 2021, 11:45 My way to hold any pulley in any direction using an old belt
Free end of a belt should be placed at any strong part of engine
Your english is perfect : Vodka !

Manov
1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56

cn90
Posts: 8257
Joined: 31 March 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
Location: Omaha NE
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 471 times

Post by cn90 »

Salut @manovlov,

The Crank Pulley PN is 1275801, about US $280 for Genuine Volvo.
Even FCPEuro does not sell it ("on back order").
This is simply bc this part lasts the life of the car.

I have been around Volvo forums for > 20 yrs and have NOT seen a single case of rubber separation.

The 2005-2010 Honda Odyssey van Crank Pulley can (but rarely) come apart at the rubber bond.

So, whatever Volvo (or the supplier of the crank pulley) vulcanized the rubber very very well and even after 30 yrs, it still holds up.

Here is a random photo from ebay to show everyone the rubber portion of the crank pulley, this is why
this is also called harmonic balancer. The YELLOW arrows show the rubber cracks, but they are minor cracks.

---
Volvo-Crank-Pulley.jpg
Volvo-Crank-Pulley.jpg (306.28 KiB) Viewed 591 times
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

User avatar
manovlov
Posts: 1180
Joined: 6 July 2011
Year and Model: 1995 850 GLT 2.5 170
Location: Grenoble, France
Has thanked: 620 times
Been thanked: 143 times

Post by manovlov »

cn90 wrote: 23 Jul 2021, 20:11 Salut @manovlov,

The Crank Pulley PN is 1275801, about US $280 for Genuine Volvo.
Even FCPEuro does not sell it ("on back order").
This is simply bc this part lasts the life of the car.

I have been around Volvo forums for > 20 yrs and have NOT seen a single case of rubber separation.

The 2005-2010 Honda Odyssey van Crank Pulley can (but rarely) come apart at the rubber bond.

So, whatever Volvo (or the supplier of the crank pulley) vulcanized the rubber very very well and even after 30 yrs, it still holds up.

Here is a random photo from ebay to show everyone the rubber portion of the crank pulley, this is why
this is also called harmonic balancer. The YELLOW arrows show the rubber cracks, but they are minor cracks.

---

Volvo-Crank-Pulley.jpg
Salut cn90,

Cool to read you. I'm convinced by all minds expressed here.

Again, thanks to all of You.

Manov
Last edited by manovlov on 25 Jul 2021, 01:50, edited 1 time in total.
1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56

User avatar
volvolugnut
Posts: 6233
Joined: 19 January 2014
Year and Model: 2001 V70
Location: Oklahoma USA
Has thanked: 927 times
Been thanked: 1000 times

Post by volvolugnut »

manovlov wrote: 21 Jul 2021, 08:34 Salut Volvolugnut

If you have some plan of o tool to build DIY, i'm interested ...

I spend as much money for tools than for parts, at the end.

:D
I thought I had a photo of the tool I made to hold the crankshaft, but I cannot find it. It is simple to make. I used about 1/8 x 1 x 1 inch steel angle (but other sizes will work). A Y shape is made from a short length and a longer length. Both angles at the top of the Y have holes to match two of the four holes in the crank pulley. Two opposite bolts of the pulley bolt through the end holes. The two angles are joined by a pivot bolt at the middle of the Y. The long end of the angle is braced against something (or held with a cheater bar) to prevent rotation of the crank while torquing the crank nut.

volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

User avatar
Kokonradus
Posts: 32
Joined: 11 December 2022
Year and Model: 1995 850 10v GLE
Location: Slovakia
Has thanked: 14 times

Post by Kokonradus »

About tightening the crank nut on the engine. I have made a good tool that worked for me perfectly. You just tap the Y ends with 10mm sockets on the pulley screw heads while the middle of the tool has long M10 rod that will stop at the engine mount side and will safely lock the engine so you can tighten the crank nut to180Nm (on 850) with torque wrench according to manufacturers spec.
P1090053.JPG
1995 Volvo 850 2,0 10v NA - Wagon
1996 Volvo 850 2,5 20v NA - Wagon
1992 Škoda Forman 1,3 Carburetor
--------------------------------------------------------------
2004 Volvo Xc70 D5 AWD (Sold)
1998 Škoda Felicia 1,9D LAURINA (Sold)

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post