warm AC. pay for diagnostics or just replace compressor

[June]

This was the cost to replace compressor and dryer at Volvo $1,900 which comes with a lifetime warranty as all Volvo repair does. My car's symptoms mirrored yours and replacing the expansion block is what fixed it. June

[pgill]

........................... I have stopped putting solenoids in as the age and miles can mean you are replacing the solenoid on a compressor that will have other issues within a year in many cases. The drier is integral with condenser and can be (and should be) serviced but you need to remove things for access to slid the cylindrical drier insert out of the vessel on side of condenser.

It always feels good when what I actually did matches Jimmy's recommendation.

For my "$10,000 S80 Challenge" here is what I did.

I decided to go aftermarket and buy a Valeo unit

I did this because the A/C in my LR2 is still blowing cold and its two years older than the S80 and has similar mileage and it came new with a Valeo unit (Volvo specified a Sanden unit)

And I also replaced the desiccant bag.

Doing the work myself except for the evacuating of the refrigerant I was able to keep the cost under $600.

June I saw your post on the cost for your Volvo and it was painful. I expect each compressor to last about 12 years. and I would need to replace the compressor 4 time before the DIY exceeded the free replacement from Volvo. If I am correct my S80 would be 50 years old before the free replacement warranty is a benefit. Back to my DIY.

Thanks

Paul

PS this is an amazing thread with excellent information

[ylwgto]

@June, ouch! That is the bill I am trying to avoid, but happy to hear your issue is solved. I did not see and expansion valve listed on that invoice. Is that what they said was the root cause of the issue? I'm pondering replacing mine, but they are recessed into the firewall and it looks difficult. I also have a rear AC car, which has a second expansion block that I don't even know the location of!
Thanks

[ylwgto]

@pgill, yes, I want to go Valeo as well but I am just reading that the unit I was about to buy is only for VIN #s up to 517070 (my car is higher VIN than that). Not sure if this is accurate, as I though the compressors were all the same from '07-11.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/vol ... essor,6628

I do not plan to do the drier, to much of a hassle. I want to replace the serpentine belt, but do not want to do all the idler pulleys etc. Looks like a serious procedure I don't have time for right now. But, I am reluctant to just replace the belt for fear that a new tighter belt would fry all the bearings on the old pulleys right quick. I'm at 124K and would like to stretch it to 140K before taking that on.

thanks

[abscate]

The engine control module runs the compressor variable displacement solenoid. The climate control module monitors the evaporator temp sensor and requests compressor displacement level which is used to determine the duty cycle of the VD solenoid. Expansion valves are not giving trouble on these unless there is debris from compressor failing that foul the system. The compressor will rattle or growl if the compressor has failed. I question how they decided it was charged to acceptable level. The static pressure for the gas in system will be the same from about 25% to 100% charge. The charge level has a great bearing on the compressor being able to vary its displacement. The solenoid failure usually starts with poor cooling performance for several minutes but suddenly it cools fine once the compressor warms and the binding VD solenoid frees up. It gets worse and quits cooling after a period of the delayed cooling phenomena. I have stopped putting solenoids in as the age and miles can mean you are replacing the solenoid on a compressor that will have other issues within a year in many cases. The drier is integral with condenser and can be (and should be) serviced but you need to remove things for access to slid the cylindrical drier insert out of the vessel on side of condenser.

Jimmy, just want to thank you for participating here. It’s great to have the deep knowledge source on a Forum.

[Masscomguru]

I just went through this with mine. The solenoid is easy to replace and my vent temp before was 60 degrees. The vent temp after was 32. For the 200 it costs for the valve and a recharge, it is worth trying. I did not replace anything else.

[Masscomguru]

I just went through this with mine. The solenoid is easy to replace and my vent temp before was 60 degrees. The vent temp after was 32. For the 200 it costs for the valve and a recharge, it is worth trying. I did not replace anything else.

[ggleavitt]

Had the same problem with the Ocean Race, this vehicle is new to me (November) . An evac with new solenoid (31305844) plus a refill and I'm back to consistently cool air. I opted not to do the drier as I had evac and refill done the same morning. Old valve looked like this (new valve has another screen at the end of the cap)-

[abscate]

Op, $225 for an Evacuation is inane. It’s a 30 minute process. It shouldn’t be more than one hour labor tops.

Go to an oil change place that advertises AC service and you might even talk them into a free evac

[Capndirk]

I'm a little late to the party, but there's a thread over at Swedespeed about the valve and the miraculous fix. There's a valve available on eBay (bought one, $40) that has fixed the performance issue for a few XC90 folks.
https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/ac-i ... st-7828947