What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved
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Chuck W
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I think you need to get those connectors a little hotter to allow that solder to flow.
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.
The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.
The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6
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RickHaleParker
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They are called solder-seal connectors. A step up from crimp butt connectors.
It helps if you dip the wires in Liquid Rosin and heat the solder enough that it flows into the wires.
Here another way that works even better and cost less. Better joint and not a bulky.
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
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ZionXIX
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I maxed out my heat gun for several minutes and that's all it would flow. After they cooled I couldn't pull them apart. My light is working great so I'm gonna call this one done. Maybe higher quality connectors would flow better. These were the Amazon special.
Scarlett: 1996 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl ~210K mi
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
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RickHaleParker
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The problem is: The wire does not get hot enough to flow the solder. Some Liquid Rosin will clean it and help flow the heat.
When soldering you are suppose to heat the material them melt the solder with the heat of the material. That is why he is wrapping the solder around the ends and heating from the center in the video. The little bridge of solder helps to get the heat flowing. The Liquid Rosin cleans and also helps heat flow.
Watch the video, when the solder melts it wicks along the hot and clean wire. Your solder-seal did not do that because the wire is neither hot or clean.
Solder-seal is not a good solder joint but, it is a step up from crimp butt connectors.
Note on using Liquid Rosin: Go easy on it!
In the video he did even use a drop. He drew the Liquid Rosin off the side of the tip. If you use too much, the Liquid Rosin it will catch fire, cook the copper or leave a residue that will do more hard then good. Liquid Rosin is primary for cleaning the surface of the material. You need just enough to lightly coat the material.
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
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abscate
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Empty Nester
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Sveedy
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[quote=RickHaleParker post_id=581045 time=1629604575 user_id=8402
The problem is: The wire does not get hot enough to flow the solder. Some Liquid Rosin will clean it and help flow the heat.
When soldering you are suppose to heat the material them melt the solder with the heat of the material. That is why he is wrapping the solder around the ends and heating from the center in the video. The little bridge of solder helps to get the heat flowing. The Liquid Rosin cleans and also helps heat flow.
Watch the video, when the solder melts it wicks along the hot and clean wire. Your solder-seal did not do that because the wire is neither hot or clean.
Solder-seal is not a good solder joint but, it is a step up from crimp butt connectors.
Note on using Liquid Rosin: Go easy on it!
In the video he did even use a drop. He drew the Liquid Rosin off the side of the tip. If you use too much, the Liquid Rosin it will catch fire, cook the copper or leave a residue that will do more hard then good. Liquid Rosin is primary for cleaning the surface of the material. You need just enough to lightly coat the material.
[/quote]
It's same principle as sweat soldering copper plumbing pipes. You heat the copper fitting and pipe, then touch the solder to that hot copper, and the solder will wick into the joint and set up.
He didn't provide a link for the liquid rosin - I wonder if standard paste solder flux would work.
The problem is: The wire does not get hot enough to flow the solder. Some Liquid Rosin will clean it and help flow the heat.
When soldering you are suppose to heat the material them melt the solder with the heat of the material. That is why he is wrapping the solder around the ends and heating from the center in the video. The little bridge of solder helps to get the heat flowing. The Liquid Rosin cleans and also helps heat flow.
Watch the video, when the solder melts it wicks along the hot and clean wire. Your solder-seal did not do that because the wire is neither hot or clean.
Solder-seal is not a good solder joint but, it is a step up from crimp butt connectors.
Note on using Liquid Rosin: Go easy on it!
In the video he did even use a drop. He drew the Liquid Rosin off the side of the tip. If you use too much, the Liquid Rosin it will catch fire, cook the copper or leave a residue that will do more hard then good. Liquid Rosin is primary for cleaning the surface of the material. You need just enough to lightly coat the material.
[/quote]
It's same principle as sweat soldering copper plumbing pipes. You heat the copper fitting and pipe, then touch the solder to that hot copper, and the solder will wick into the joint and set up.
He didn't provide a link for the liquid rosin - I wonder if standard paste solder flux would work.
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.
1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT
1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT
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foggydogg
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69 1800s, @500k Death by Rust
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94 850 Turbo, T-boned, ambulance for me, crusher for it
97 855 T5, 855 R projects
98 V70R x2, Silver Junkyard rescue, Coral Red
98 V70GLT x2, parts cars
00 V70xc x2, both now dead
62 122s, gone to live in Richmond
56 445 Duett basket project
1950 Studebaker 2R10 flatbed, T9 crashbox
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