Banjo bolt delete?

[arielt5]

I’m glad I’m not the only one that thought of this. I was thinking of doing the following in this diagram I drew up for a friend to understand.

In order to delete the intake banjo bolt and the bolt above the flywheel sensor, you’d then find a proper bolt of the same thread with a crush washer to block off both the intake manifold and the coolant port on the block. And to fix this nipple on the thermostat

you could simply run an NA thermostat housing

does my logic follow? I feel this simplifies the system in more ways than one along with eliminating oil circulating through the intake with the catch an present.

[RickHaleParker]

The Banjo is a precision engineered Valve. The Banjo switched the vacuum source from Intake manifold vacuum to turbo input vacuum. This insures that you always have Positive Crankcase Ventilation even when the Turbo is boosting ( Intake manifold pressure is positive ). You mess with the engineering and the PCV system will not work correctly under boost.

[C1ph3r]

Me again bumping an old thread. But this is freaking brilliant. I am in the middle of the PVC service for the first time and trying hard to figure out how I am going to get this put back together. Had to cut the coolant line to the thermostat housing just to get enough room to unbolt the banjo and get the intake out. I love the idea of bypassing the banjo for the coolant. Being in the south, it gets cold but nothing like other places.

Well now to my question and what I was actually looking for. Anyone know the torque spec on the banjo bolt on the intake manifold? Is it the same 26nm as the banjo bolt on the head for the other end of the coolant line?

[abscate]

I have 24 Nm in my notes for both banjos. I looked in Alldata to confirm but could not find it.

Someone with VIDA running can confirm

Use new copper crush washers and clean all the surfaces carefully to get a good seal.

If you replace the banjo bolt, make sure replacement is identical in depth to original

[C1ph3r]

Hi J-dawg. Glad you did this. As these vehicles get older, the likelihood of needing to pull the intake manifold for maintenance increases. Some people may be able to replace that banjo bolt without issues; good for them. But I see three benefits of doing a bypass:

1) Go from 4 connections to 2, decreasing probability of a leak.
2) No need to drain any coolant when removing intake manifold
3) Banjo bolt removal and replacing can be done with the intake manifold completely out, saving a lot of time.

These benefits far outweigh the benefit of an early heat up of the plastic line. I think regular oil changes should keep that line clear. Here is my setup for anyone curious. I would highly recommend this setup (see pics below).

As abscate mentioned, perhaps it is not as good of an idea in a colder climate, but I still think regular oil changes should prevent clogs. We will see. Hopefully someone else can benefit from this.

***Important - The reason this was even necessary was because some crappy IPD hose from the PCV kit started cracking only 6 months after install, causing a major coolant leak (see pics). Yikes! Either don't buy this kit, or at least replace their hose with some decent gates heater hose or something. This is crazy!

I know this an old thread but wanted to check in and see how this bypass has been working for y’all? I bypassed this when I did the PCV system the first time but now I too am having to re-do this because of that same crappy IPD kit. Hose busted. 1.5 years and Less than 5k miles later the coolant hose on the side of the head burst.

I’ve been told since bypassing this is a bad idea. I’m upgrading to the newer style hard line and now have doubts if I should keep the banjo coolant bypassed still or not.

[Richard99]

Hi J-dawg. Glad you did this. As these vehicles get older, the likelihood of needing to pull the intake manifold for maintenance increases. Some people may be able to replace that banjo bolt without issues; good for them. But I see three benefits of doing a bypass:

1) Go from 4 connections to 2, decreasing probability of a leak.
2) No need to drain any coolant when removing intake manifold
3) Banjo bolt removal and replacing can be done with the intake manifold completely out, saving a lot of time.

These benefits far outweigh the benefit of an early heat up of the plastic line. I think regular oil changes should keep that line clear. Here is my setup for anyone curious. I would highly recommend this setup (see pics below).

As abscate mentioned, perhaps it is not as good of an idea in a colder climate, but I still think regular oil changes should prevent clogs. We will see. Hopefully someone else can benefit from this.

***Important - The reason this was even necessary was because some crappy IPD hose from the PCV kit started cracking only 6 months after install, causing a major coolant leak (see pics). Yikes! Either don't buy this kit, or at least replace their hose with some decent gates heater hose or something. This is crazy!

I know this an old thread but wanted to check in and see how this bypass has been working for y’all? I bypassed this when I did the PCV system the first time but now I too am having to re-do this because of that same crappy IPD kit. Hose busted. 1.5 years and Less than 5k miles later the coolant hose on the side of the head burst.

I’ve been told since bypassing this is a bad idea. I’m upgrading to the newer style hard line and now have doubts if I should keep the banjo coolant bypassed still or not.

I no longer have the V70XC that I did this to. Doing the delete is the best way to go. Anyone saying it's a problem is total B.S. Run it like that for a nice easy time removing the manifold in future. Just make sure the plastic nipple is connected so that you maintain vacuum in the manifold. That banjo bolt is too big of a PITA to keep it there.

[C1ph3r]

Awesome. Thanks. Yeah the original kit i used from IPD was total garbage. The way the small vacuum line was connected couldn't have possibly stayed attached before I removed the manifold this time. The new one for sure isnt coming apart.

[Richard99]

Awesome. Thanks. Yeah the original kit i used from IPD was total garbage. The way the small vacuum line was connected couldn't have possibly stayed attached before I removed the manifold this time. The new one for sure isnt coming apart.

Yeah totally. I couldn't believe how quickly my IPD PCV kit tubing started cracking. Pretty sure I left a bad review but not sure.

[Twarr12000]

Reviving an old thread, but I have a question I don’t see addressed elsewhere.
I get the siamesed PCV line/coolant hose to keep the blowby gases heated. The same coolant line is wrapped around the banjo bolt in the intake manifold for the same reason. But the infamous plumbing makes the jog around the banjo bolt not worthwhile.
Why not use an electrically heated connection similar to the PTC at the other end? That’s how it is on my BMW’s. (Admittedly there have been 4 recalls on this part)
I’m in the process of doing the PCV maintenance on my S70 project car and thinking of how to improve this PCV mess.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/foru ... e_vignette

[abscate]

Why not use an electrically heated connection similar to the PTC at the other end? That’s how it is on my BMW’s. (Admittedly there have been 4 recalls on this part)