Battery Light

Post by **abscate** » 26 Sep 2021, 05:42

Get the battery on a 6 amp charge for 24 hours before having a BatteryFuneral.

Low Buss voltage on any Volvo 1999- can cause all sorts of havoc.

See here, car started fine....

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... =1&t=92161

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 26 Sep 2021, 06:35

Guys, but the battery is over 4 years old. So you are saying that even though the battery has been drained down to nothing that the battery itself is still fine?

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 26 Sep 2021, 06:43

Low Buss voltage on any Volvo 1999- can cause all sorts of havoc.

abscate, what does "low buss" voltage mean? Does that have to do with the alternator?

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 26 Sep 2021, 07:44

"You should have 13.6 V or so at the B2 terminal at the alternator with the engine running."

Blacklab467, can you show me with a screenshot or photo of where this B2 terminal is?

Post by **volvolugnut** » 26 Sep 2021, 12:33

Batteries CAN be good and rechargeable even after a deep discharge. BUT, it will need to be recharged by a separate charger as Abscate noted. Low buss voltage means the CAN (Car Area Network) buss voltage is too low to operate all of the electronics on the car. Unlike an old chevrolet, these cars will not run well if the battery is only good enough to crank the engine.

I would bet the cost of coffee and donuts that you can recharge your battery and it will be OK. Alternator (or voltage regulator) may still have a problem.

volvolugnut

Post by **Blacklab467** » 26 Sep 2021, 13:52

Its the one that the big red wire comes off with a 13 or 14 mm nut on it. I think its called B2 but Abscate will correct me if the nomenclature is wrong. You can reach it with your multimeter when the engine is running but may burn your hand a bit.

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 28 Sep 2021, 16:19

OK, so I dropped the car off at a real mechanic yesterday and they charged up the battery since I don't own one. Then checked out the alternator and that was the problem. Bad alternator. Installed a re-manufactured one with a new serpentine belt and I think I am back in the fast lane.
The mechanic did say to keep an eye on that 4 yr. old battery. He said if I hear a clicking sound when I try to turn it over later on, then it is the battery.

Post by **cn90** » 28 Sep 2021, 18:14

- The re-mfg alternator is a gamble.
If you drive around town then no worry, replace it whenever it fails.

- If you frequently do long-distance, get a new (not rebuilt) Bosch alternator.

PS: If you old genuine alternator has less than 120K, replace the VR (using Bosch brand) and keep as spare...

Post by **volvolugnut** » 28 Sep 2021, 18:43

VR equals voltage regulator. Replaceable as a module on a Bosch alternator.
You can keep the coffee and donut money from the battery wager to help with the VR.

volvolugnut

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 29 Sep 2021, 05:44

I did not have much of a choice with the alternator, (new over $600, re-built $310). My daily commute to work is 20 minutes and mostly on the freeway.
The old/original alternator had 170k miles on her. Are you saying now the re-built does not have an external VR?
Only Bosch alternators?

Battery Light

Re: Battery Light