Camshaft Locking Tool Instructions

[hans747]

So you used the clamp because tool's bolt opening did not align. Now, what if the clamp had snapped while you were working on the timing? So, here, a solid steel (more robust) still clamp would have been safer?. You mentioned the clamp broke after the pic was taken..

In my picture, there was oil deposit on the crank side. On the cam side, lots of oil oozed out. Looking at the inside of the plug, looks like the oil has been there for a long time, since the bottom part of the plug got stained from the oil sitting there that long.
Are the oil deposits normal?

Thanks.

CamCrankOil.JPG

When the clamp snapped, I rotated the cam a few degrees. It was nothing major and I reset the tool with a better clamp.

That oil dripping past the rear cams means you are probably due to have the rear cam seals replaced. They cost $15 for the set at any chain auto parts store. And the chain auto parts stores will usually carry the real cam covers as well.

[Oka]

And as others have said, DO NOT crank the two long bolts into the cams. They are maybe 7mm and not the best steel and they will shear off INSIDE the camshaft. I did this.

If the cam and crank are locked in place, I should still put markings on the wheels and the belt, just in case? Though I will be replacing the timing belt and water pump. Would I need to align any other thing with the locking tool in place?
Thanks

[firstv70volvo]

. . . .
If you look at the attached photo, you will see my janky setup. You can see the nuts being used as spacers, and then there is the clamp being used to hold it all together. . . . .

Looking at your picture, I did not see a "janky setup". I see a brilliant setup!!!

So you used the clam because tool's bolt opening did not align. Now, what if the clamp had snapped while you were working on the timing? So, here, a solid steel (more robust) still clamp would have been safer?. You mentioned the clamp broke after the pic was taken..

In my picture, there was oil deposit on the crank side. On the cam side, lots of oil oozed out. Looking at the inside of the plug, looks like the oil has been there for a long time, since the bottom part of the plug got stained from the oil sitting there that long.
Are the oil deposits normal?

Thanks.

CamCrankOil.JPG

Question about your intake cam side, did it have a cam seal in place behind the plug? My car did not and it looks like it came from the factory with no seal on the intake cam cap end. The oil that gets into the cavity behind the end cap sits there for a long time and cooks so it's dark. I was actually surprised there wasn't more oil in this area without a cam seal.

[Oka]

If you look at the attached photo, you will see my janky setup. You can see the nuts being used as spacers, and then there is the clamp being used to hold it all together.

1. Looking at your photo, it looks like your cam and crank did not line up.
My grooves did not line up either to use the tool. What am I missing?
Please, how did you get your tool to fit?

2. With the locking tool, did you still put marks on the cam wheel?
I'll be replacing the water pump also.

Thanks

[vtl]

Looking at your photo, it looks like your cam and crank did not line up. My grooves did not line up either to use the tool. What am I missing? Please, how did you get your tool to fit?

That's the notch for the camshaft position sensor, not a slot for the tool. Look at page 1, I have a photo with a piece broke off, you'll see that notch.

[hans747]

WHEW!!!!

[hans747]

With the cam tool in place, you create three sets of marks:

Both of these already have their own sets of marks already on the parts, but they are really hard to see:
Front of cam sprocket showing alignment of the sprocket to the timing notches on the upper timing cover
Crankshaft in relation to the front of the engine.

Now take the timing belt off:
There will be some rotational play in the cam sprokets that are VVT controlled. Make some marks on the cam sprocket and the engine to record leftmost and rightmost roation of each sprocket.

[Oka]

With the cam tool in place, you create three sets of marks:

Both of these already have their own sets of marks already on the parts, but they are really hard to see:
Front of cam sprocket showing alignment of the sprocket to the timing notches on the upper timing cover
Crankshaft in relation to the front of the engine.

Now take the timing belt off:
There will be some rotational play in the cam sprokets that are VVT controlled. Make some marks on the cam sprocket and the engine to record leftmost and rightmost roation of each sprocket.

Answer to exactly to my question. With the locking tool in place, I still need to do some marking.
Thanks.

[Oka]

Looking at your photo, it looks like your cam and crank did not line up. My grooves did not line up either to use the tool. What am I missing? Please, how did you get your tool to fit?

That's the notch for the camshaft position sensor, not a slot for the tool. Look at page 1, I have a photo with a piece broke off, you'll see that notch.

What I was really needing was how to line up the tool. I called someone who told me what to do; am still learning and in great work in progress. I had to keep turning the wheel till they lined up, Just one more turn did it.

By the way, my tool bolt holder did not line up so, I employed your "janky setup", exactly like you did yours and it worked right for me. It's tight and snuggled. Thanks for the photo.

[Oka]

Please, disregard this question, I got the answer I need.
Thanks