Hosting 3D models of Volvo parts on MVS

[Teddy1975]

I've been 3D printing for a couple of years now with PETG and PLA on what started out as an Ender 3 Pro, but which I have modified to work somewhat better and be able to print at higher temperatures than normal.

My first project for the Volvo was new seat belt release buttons, all of mine had desintegrated or at least had a big jagged hole in the center, and I found the file for it on thingiverse. Thought it was a done deal when I'd printed them all in PETG and installed them, but on the first sunny day, I found they had all been forced up and out of shape by the little spring that keeps the button up which I thought was kind of puzzling given that PETG should withstand temperatures up to around 80c.
I've since removed the springs and the buttons are fine now, but I wouldn't want to use normal PETG (or even worse PLA) for anything car related again.

I've been wanting to try PETG HT100, which is why I upgraded the components in my printer, but haven't had the project for it yet. This filament should withstand temperatures up to 100C (212F) but needs to be printed at 250-280C (480F-536F) on to a heated bed of 100-110C which is well above what the average entry level printer will do.

ZionXIX, From what I can tell from seeing your pictures, it looks like your printer is either under extruding or that you are printing at too low temp, you shouldn't be seeing such big gaps in the top layer of your prints.

[ZionXIX]

I've been 3D printing for a couple of years now with PETG and PLA on what started out as an Ender 3 Pro, but which I have modified to work somewhat better and be able to print at higher temperatures than normal.

My first project for the Volvo was new seat belt release buttons, all of mine had desintegrated or at least had a big jagged hole in the center, and I found the file for it on thingiverse. Thought it was a done deal when I'd printed them all in PETG and installed them, but on the first sunny day, I found they had all been forced up and out of shape by the little spring that keeps the button up which I thought was kind of puzzling given that PETG should withstand temperatures up to around 80c.
I've since removed the springs and the buttons are fine now, but I wouldn't want to use normal PETG (or even worse PLA) for anything car related again.

I've been wanting to try PETG HT100, which is why I upgraded the components in my printer, but haven't had the project for it yet. This filament should withstand temperatures up to 100C (212F) but needs to be printed at 250-280C (480F-536F) on to a heated bed of 100-110C which is well above what the average entry level printer will do.

ZionXIX, From what I can tell from seeing your pictures, it looks like your printer is either under extruding or that you are printing at too low temp, you shouldn't be seeing such big gaps in the top layer of your prints.

I agree PETG isn't perfect but alternatives are either expensive or require equipment out of my price range to print. I feel like polycarbonate or carbon fiber mixtures may stand up better to the heat. I would try ABS but I dont have an enclosure for the fumes and I don't need to breath that stuff while driving either.

My top layers have no gap, it's bad lighting. My initial layer needs adjustment though. I print at 250C with 80C bed on a 0.8mm nozzle using E3D V6.

I have seen some videos of people 3d printing a mold and using that for DIY injection molding.

[Teddy1975]

Yes, I wouldn't like to print ABS either, I think that's better left to industrial injection molding.
Instead of fussing too much with the initial layers you could print a raft for build plate adhesion. That won't give you a perfectly smooth underside of the object, but will give all of your layers the proper height.