Hi,
I have a 2005 Volvo S60 2.5T FWD and I just replaced my steering rack and installed the IPD front sway bar. I took it to Firestone since I have the lifetime alignment service. My steering wheel when driving straight points to the 10 o'clock position. The Firestone rep told me that my camber is really bad for the front. Could I have messed up when I had the subframe lowered and was installing the steering rack and front sway bar? Any recommendations? I have attached the current alignment spec sheet they gave me.
Things I have done previously to the car:
Bilstein B8 shocks
H&R Lowering Springs
Replaced control arms
IPD HD Front endlinks
Alignment problem
- chris11211
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Did they check the ball joint? It seems like the only thing missing, so you should put a pry bar somewhere and see if the knuckles moves up an down at the joint. Also, rear sway bars could be causing a conflict if you didn't change it, but that's just my opinion.
Sorry i forgot to mention that I changed the balljoints when i did the control arms. I took them out with a brass punch and then got a nearby shop to press them in. I have the new IPD rear sway bar and HD endlinks but didn't put them on because I thought I could just get it aligned now and install them the the next time I had time to. I'll install them and see if it makes a difference.
- SuperHerman
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Been sometime since I played with a Volvo suspension, but doesn't the subframe have cones that keeps the cradle aligned?
What was your alignment like before you started the steering rack? The lowering springs will mess up all sorts of things - including your steering rack.
Your other numbers are consistently bad which is the odd thing. I think they could have done better on the toe.
What was your alignment like before you started the steering rack? The lowering springs will mess up all sorts of things - including your steering rack.
Your other numbers are consistently bad which is the odd thing. I think they could have done better on the toe.
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chrism
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“…. The lowering springs will mess up all sorts of things….”
That’s for sure!
Don’t most of the struts have one slightly slotted bolt hole to allow camber adjustment? Probably not enough to bring yours back to spec. I believe Moog, and probably other companies, sell eccentric lower strut bolts that allow for some degree of camber angle correction. Or you could “go Rambo” and elongate the slotted hole a little more.
That’s for sure!
Don’t most of the struts have one slightly slotted bolt hole to allow camber adjustment? Probably not enough to bring yours back to spec. I believe Moog, and probably other companies, sell eccentric lower strut bolts that allow for some degree of camber angle correction. Or you could “go Rambo” and elongate the slotted hole a little more.
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vtl
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No. The "alignment" procedure is to slacken the bolts, lower the subframe on the passanger side, tighten the driver side then the passenger.SuperHerman wrote: ↑03 Oct 2021, 20:43 but doesn't the subframe have cones that keeps the cradle aligned?
Thank you for all of your replies. I wanted to give y'all an update.
The other shop I took it to got the camber figured out but now the toe is messed up. Shop said both wheels are turned inwards because the steering rack is "too long" maybe. I told them when i put the new outer tie rod ends on the new steering rack I compared it to the old original steering rack with the original outer tie rod ends and it was roughly the same length. They tightened the outer tie rod ends as much as they could and the toe was still messed up. They suspect that the inner tie rods may be too long and will cut them to make them slightly shorter after looking at the inner tie rod ends of the original steering rack.
The other shop I took it to got the camber figured out but now the toe is messed up. Shop said both wheels are turned inwards because the steering rack is "too long" maybe. I told them when i put the new outer tie rod ends on the new steering rack I compared it to the old original steering rack with the original outer tie rod ends and it was roughly the same length. They tightened the outer tie rod ends as much as they could and the toe was still messed up. They suspect that the inner tie rods may be too long and will cut them to make them slightly shorter after looking at the inner tie rod ends of the original steering rack.
Oof, I dont remember how I tightened down the subframe bolts but it surely wasn't like this. I used original bolts again. I have new ones along with the poly subframe bushings but thought I'd put them on after to make sure the steering rack was good and I wouldn't have to lower the subframe again.vtl wrote: ↑04 Oct 2021, 09:05No. The "alignment" procedure is to slacken the bolts, lower the subframe on the passanger side, tighten the driver side then the passenger.SuperHerman wrote: ↑03 Oct 2021, 20:43 but doesn't the subframe have cones that keeps the cradle aligned?
- SuperHerman
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Vtl - I believe you - I may be envisioning the brush guard piece on an XC90 - or another car.
OP - do your part numbers match for the steering rack? Do they match for the inner AND outer rack ends?
How did the alignment sit before you replaced the rack?
I pulled up some pictures and it makes sense to cut the inner tie rods as a work around.
OP - do your part numbers match for the steering rack? Do they match for the inner AND outer rack ends?
How did the alignment sit before you replaced the rack?
I pulled up some pictures and it makes sense to cut the inner tie rods as a work around.
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