Car stalls when put in gear, sputters then gets better

Kushballz · Post by **Kushballz** » 19 Oct 2005, 22:15

When I first start my car (car details at bottom), wait a few seconds for it to stabalize its RPMs, then shift it into any gear, it chuggs, then dies. When you restart it and put it into gear the second time, its like nothing ever happened. So I back out of my driveway and go about 1/2 mile through the neighborhood, and try to get on the highway, but when you press the gas, it seems like you're not pressing on the petal, even if you're flooring it, and then a few seconds after sputtering around it will kick in and act as normal. Then, my car sputters while around 5-20mph while driving. It acts like it doesn't want any gas. The car will not accelerate, and often die. When I come to a stop, sometimes it dies, and sometimes it continues to sputter. Sometimes when i'm stopped, i'll shift it into neutral, and raise the rpms. The result of that makes the engine choke, randomly die, spin around less than 300 rpm, and randomly surge to over 5000 rpm. After those 5 minutes of waiting and restarting the car, it will continue as a normal operating car. All the (engine) electrical is new, new air filter, new fuel filter, and new gas. The car will not sputter for the first 30 secs of driving, but will sputter after that, then resume to normal operation after 5 mins. The fuel pressure is acceptable, intake is clean, and the exhaust is new (catalytic converter replaced in februrary, and the rest [except the manifold] replaced in 2004). Also, the injectors are clean, and working properly. Oh yeah, there aren't any vacuum leaks, nor any cylinders misfiring, though it feels that way even after the engine is warm.

1985 Volvo 240 DL Wagon
2.3L 4-CYL Non-Turbo
Automatic Transmission
142,500 Miles
Fuel Injected
Non- ABS
Hydraulic Brakes (DOT4)
Power Steering
Non working A/C (leaking freon)
Rack and Pinion Steering

petershen1984 · Post by **petershen1984** » 21 Oct 2005, 04:37

you might check the fuel pressure regulator or cleaning the throttle body...

Braddunagan · Post by **Braddunagan** » 17 Apr 2008, 07:15

I have the exact same issue! It sounds like I wrote this post. I have replaced everything I could think of. I have cleaned the throttle body (w/no luck even though I didn't see how that could possibly cause this issue). I will replace the fuel pressure regulator as previously described. I hope there are some more replies because I have replaced everything to no avail. Read my signature for what has been done.

Post by **jonesg** » 20 Apr 2008, 06:12

Fuel pressure, check regulator by pulling vac line, see if theres fuel leaking, if theres fuel in that vac line it will screw up pressure and flood the throttle body.

I would suspect the fuel pump too.

Braddunagan · Post by **Braddunagan** » 21 Apr 2008, 15:39

Fuel pressure regulator is the problem. I pulled the vacuum line and fuel poured out of it. I can't believe no one from another chat room never suggested that easy test. Thanks

jonesg wrote:Fuel pressure, check regulator by pulling vac line, see if theres fuel leaking, if theres fuel in that vac line it will screw up pressure and flood the throttle body.

I would suspect the fuel pump too.

Post by **jonesg** » 21 Apr 2008, 19:04

Petershen 1984 suggested you test it, we probably assume everyone already knows how to check it.

Anyway, the vac line has been sucking fuel right into your throttle body, imagine the havoc that plays with fuel mix.

When you bolt the new pressure regulator in be sure to do it in the right sequence or it WILL leak at the rail joint.

From the brickboard FAQ,
Changing the FPR. [Andy Jameson] Relieve the system fuel pressure and put a rag under the area to catch what does come out.

Use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp holding the fuel line to the FPR.
Remove the two bolts holding the FPR to the fuel rail.
Pull the FPR out of the fuel rail; straight out toward the driver's side fender. It is just held in by an o-ring which should come out with the FPR.
Then pull the FPR off the fuel line by pulling it toward the front of the car.
Installation is the reverse, except you will use the two bolts to force the O-ring and FPR into the fuel rail. Lubricate the O-ring with a little motor oil or vaseline. Be sure to keep it straight and turn each bolt a little at a time in turn. If it gets too crooked going in, the fuel rail can bend or the O-ring can tear.

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/F ... _Regulator

Braddunagan · Post by **Braddunagan** » 21 Apr 2008, 21:35

With the amount of extra fuel that has being burnt I am really surprised the plugs aren't fouled. I know the fuel mileage has been crap. Now I know why. How will this extra carbon from the rich mixture affect the catalytic converter?

Braddunagan · Post by **Braddunagan** » 22 Apr 2008, 19:33

I changed the fuel pressure regulator and it fixed the skipping, stalling and backfiring. I have to say your instructions didn't coincide with my FPR though. There are no two bolts or o-ring. I wonder if you were talking about a different year model but no worry. I am more than equiped to remove it with no help. It all of five minutes to remove the old, replace the new and have the car running good!

jonesg wrote:Petershen 1984 suggested you test it, we probably assume everyone already knows how to check it.

Anyway, the vac line has been sucking fuel right into your throttle body, imagine the havoc that plays with fuel mix.

When you bolt the new pressure regulator in be sure to do it in the right sequence or it WILL leak at the rail joint.

From the brickboard FAQ,
Changing the FPR. [Andy Jameson] Relieve the system fuel pressure and put a rag under the area to catch what does come out.

Use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp holding the fuel line to the FPR.
Remove the two bolts holding the FPR to the fuel rail.
Pull the FPR out of the fuel rail; straight out toward the driver's side fender. It is just held in by an o-ring which should come out with the FPR.
Then pull the FPR off the fuel line by pulling it toward the front of the car.
Installation is the reverse, except you will use the two bolts to force the O-ring and FPR into the fuel rail. Lubricate the O-ring with a little motor oil or vaseline. Be sure to keep it straight and turn each bolt a little at a time in turn. If it gets too crooked going in, the fuel rail can bend or the O-ring can tear.

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/F ... _Regulator