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Prop shaft and Haldex service '07 XC70

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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erikv11
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Re: Prop shaft and Haldex service '07 XC70

Post by erikv11 »

From VIDA (their bold fonts):

Filling and checking the oil in the Active on Demand Coupling:

Use correct oil
Volume approx. 650 ml.
Fill oil up to the filler plug. Suck out 0.1 l oil.
Caution! If the AOC (Active on Demand Coupling) has been replaced with a new one, the car must be driven carefully in tight circles in both directions and then driven for a few kilometres after the oil is filled. Top up the oil level and check again according to the above.

So I will "drive it carefully in tight circles" in both directions" because why not at this point and then fill it to top minus 100 mL, thanks for the heads-up.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

What are you doing with that used Haldex oil?

-scot850
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

Changed the rear differential fluid with Valvoline 75w-90 synthetic, same thing I used in the angle gear.

Withdrawing the old oil was really slow, I used a 60 cc syringe and thin, flexible plastic tubing. Had to shove the tubing down into the box with pliers. Don't use anything brittle that may break off inside the rear diff case. Took about 4 minutes to fill the syringe each time; I propped the plunger back with a socket and extension and walked away while it was filling.

Oil was dirty! See pics.

Was able to remove 425 mL total, replaced same amount. Replacement is much easier of course, used a large bore tubing on the pointy bottle end and squirted it right in.
FE8088C6-3ACD-4233-A61D-D62B7F17EFD0.jpeg
AAD3A5A4-8C55-4B32-AEED-9F88EDD2A79F.jpeg
E00BEE9D-4058-469F-8D7B-E52DEA989798.jpeg
34C373FE-D703-4A09-9187-6E039BE550DD.jpeg
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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erikv11
Posts: 11800
Joined: 25 July 2009
Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
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Post by erikv11 »

Just a followup on finalizing the oil level in the final drive i.e. the rear differential. The fluid is different (75w-90 gear oil for the differential) but VIDA's fill instructions are similar as for the AOC:

Volume approx. 500 ml.
Fill up to filler plug level. Suck out 100 ml.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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erikv11
Posts: 11800
Joined: 25 July 2009
Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
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Post by erikv11 »

Update regarding swapping the DEM pump without completely removing the propshaft:

I swapped the pump this week on our 06 S60R and instead of pulling the propshaft completely, I lowered the exhaust slightly and let the propshaft sit on the exhaust. This change simplified and shortened the job compared to the other times I've done this task.

Car ready for Haldex service:
S60R on stands
S60R on stands
(1) remove DEM, remove the T25 Torx screw attaching the front O2 sensor wire to the exhaust.
(2) support exhaust with a jack, detach three rubber exhaust hangers at rear, lower exhaust slightly, support it with the muffler about 10 inches off the ground.
(3) do *not* loosen the two bolts holding the center carrier bearing. Instead, completely drop the bracket holding the center bearing by removing its 4 bolts underneath (10 mm socket). The drive shaft will now flex in the center, allowing you to
(4) remove the 6 front socket head cap screws; release the front CV using an air hammer and pointy bit
(5) remove the 6 rear socket head cap screws; release the rear CV the same way
(6) now pull the front CV out of the angle gear and maneuver it upward. Pull the rear CV out of the big rusty flange and slide the whole assembly (propshaft+bearing+bracket) slightly forward. It will drop down and rest on the exhaust.
propshaft resting on exhaust
propshaft resting on exhaust
propshaft front CV out
propshaft front CV out
propshaft rear CV out
propshaft rear CV out
(7) zap the center flange nut off with 24 mm impact, remove and replace Haldex pump and filter (4 mm hexes), refill Haldex fluid; all as described elsewhere.
(8) put it back together, enjoy AWD (and ABS) again.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

erikv11 wrote: 03 Aug 2025, 00:43 Update regarding swapping the DEM pump without completely removing the propshaft:

I swapped the pump this week on our 06 S60R and instead of pulling the propshaft completely, I lowered the exhaust slightly and let the propshaft sit on the exhaust. This change simplified and shortened the job compared to the other times I've done this task.

Car ready for Haldex service: S60R on stands.jpg

(1) remove DEM, remove the T25 Torx screw attaching the front O2 sensor wire to the exhaust.
(2) support exhaust with a jack, detach three rubber exhaust hangers at rear, lower exhaust slightly, support it with the muffler about 10 inches off the ground.
(3) do *not* loosen the two bolts holding the center carrier bearing. Instead, completely drop the bracket holding the center bearing by removing its 4 bolts underneath (10 mm socket). The drive shaft will now flex in the center, allowing you to
(4) remove the 6 front socket head cap screws; release the front CV using an air hammer and pointy bit
(5) remove the 6 rear socket head cap screws; release the rear CV the same way
(6) now pull the front CV out of the angle gear and maneuver it upward. Pull the rear CV out of the big rusty flange and slide the whole assembly (propshaft+bearing+bracket) slightly forward. It will drop down and rest on the exhaust.

propshaft on exhaust.jpg
propshaft front CV out.jpg
propshaft rear CV out.jpg

(7) zap the center flange nut off with 24 mm impact, remove and replace Haldex pump and filter (4 mm hexes), refill Haldex fluid; all as described elsewhere.
(8) put it back together, enjoy AWD (and ABS) again.
0) cut down a 12 inch oak and fabricate four jack stand safeties


9) burn wood in a solo stove and make pizza
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread

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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

About the only reason to remove the shaft from underneath the vehicle is if you were to clean and repack the CV joints fore and aft. Too bad they didn't make the pump removable without having to take the propshaft out. You'll notice that all the really dirty fluid only comes out when you remove the pump from the bore.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

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BlackBart
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Post by BlackBart »

I’m underneath (‘04 XC70) looking up at this because the exhaust is hanging to replace the sway bar.

Does the driveshaft flange have to come off to access the filter and change the fluid? I see a video where the guy maneuvers his hands around the driveshaft flange to get to the filter cover.

Are the filter cover bolts hard to get at without a wobble?

Thanks -
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty

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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

You can get the filter changed without removing the shaft or flange, I thing its a M4 or 5 Allan key. The flange has to come off for pump removal. Filter cover bolts are easy, use a hex key.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

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Post by BlackBart »

I see in that other thread Pete said:
“As I’m sure you can now see, the filter can only be replaced if the driveshaft is out of your way.”

That made me think that’s a bit involved for the time I have.
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty

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