I have a no-start issue with my 1990 740 (B230F N.A.) and before this (heh, heh - YEARS ago) it was dying whenever I turned left from a dead stop while hot. It did not seem to die while hot when taking off from a dead stop and going straight or turning to the right.
Also, it was doing this when slowing down into a turn to the left.
This is the weirdest issue I have ever had, and pernicious, too!
So I ended up sort of solving these never-fully-explained-to-me issues via a new-to-me fuel sending unit with a new sock filter and a replacement in-tank pump from IPD (that did not match the one in the old sending unit, oddly, but I was assured that it was the correct replacement). I also installed a new Bosch pump and filter under the driver's seat in its lovely, easy-to-access cage. (That was an interesting exercise in patience, which I failed over and again.) I also replaced the banjo connection line.
In the process of installing this under-car stuff, the connectors to the two wires to the fuel pump slipped off the wire ends; whatever was used to attach them had completely disintegrated into a sort of powdery goo. I had a local guy see whether he could save the physical connectors and install them onto freshly trimmed wire ends.
The car drove great for some time. There were zero hesitations, no dying, lots of power going up long hills. I was pretty pleased to see the old girl chewing up miles again.
Then one day it would not start at all. This was fairly soon after all the wiring/installing/testing/etc. I suspect the connectors might have pulled loose or are not making contact between the pump and the wires. I have not yet checked that because it just occurred to me that this could be the cause.
I first replaced the CPS as the black sheathing had completely disintegrated, exposing the gold-looking wires within. Once I discovered how bad it was I posted a pic over at BrickBoard to get it identified. Then I let the car sit, sadly neglected, for years. I tried to sell it for parts on Craigslist four times. Where I live in Mississippi is very poor, so no one wanted an unreliable car of this age and mileage that currently would not start, even for $500. I am very honest and told each inquirer how much expense would be involved to get it into good shape. I tried hard to sell it as a parts car, but the locals would wink and nod and then ask me how much would it *really* cost to get it running because "Mama needs a car to drive to Jackson two or three times a week," or some such. NO ONE was willing to buy it as a parts car or a project vehicle. Everyone wanted the $500 Swedish "luxury car" (HAHAHA!!!) to be their next fantastic deal of a lifetime. No one wanted to work on it. They honestly believed you can drive up to AutoZone in one of these and get all you need to make it roadworthy, and that this should cost them about $75 to $100.
Living here can be frustrating at times…
So this past week I finally had the time and money to get that CPS and install it.
No joy. It cranks just fine and it gets spark, but I suspect it is not sending fuel to the injectors, or perhaps the pump I installed died a hard and sudden death or that kludge of a wiring job to the pump leads failed. I hear no click in the relay, but at the time I failed to remember to listen for that, specifically. I *did* listen for the pump to spin up; it did not. (I could not physically get over to where I could listen for the in-tank pump and crank the key over.)
The spark I saw *looked* rather weak and the plugs and wires have very few miles on them, so I don't trust my eyes on what I saw. I have purchased a test light that goes inline between the wire and plug head. I have also purchased a remote starter switch. I am hoping that these two new tools and my finally breaking out (and learning to use) my multimeter will allow me to nail down this no-start issue.
So, I am here today looking for advice and encouragement. I need a list of all relays that can cause a no-start condition and some info on how the LH 2.4 system looks for spark and fuel. I have read that the system will send spark but will shit off the injectors for certain reasons, and I have read so much that is contradictory (and posted decades ago) that I am now fully confused. I decided to start a thread here to see whether I can get any current information and start a dialog with some of you.
I suppose that I am using the shotgun approach by tossing out everything and not really asking anything too specific to see what sort of information will be posted. If anyone responds I will take photos and become much more specific (and a little less useless).
Help…?
YV1FA8846L2475653
YV1 - Volvo
F - 740
A - 3 pt seat belts + SRS
88 - B230F (LH 2.4)
4 - 4 door w/seat belt only
6 - <check digit>
L - 1990
2 - Made in Belgium
475653 - Chassis number
Transmission - AW 70L/71L/72L with lockup
Front Brakes - Girling
Rear Brakes - ATE
