Oil Anti Drain Valve for the P3 -- 3.0T and 3.2 Topic is solved

[pbierre]

Paul & others:

If anyone finds a broken rubber stopper loose in their oil filter housing, please save it...don't pitch it!

If someone can send all the pieces retrieved to me, I have an idea how I could start making replacement plugs.
DM me if you can supply one.

[pgill]

I looked for mine but it isn't on the shelf

If I find it I will let you have it

Take care

Paul

[mt850glt]

I've got my little rubber stopper saved, its in one piece except the little part that goes through the ring/spring. I can send it to you if you think you can make some, that would be awesome! Otherwise I thought of just putting it back in the hole before inserting the filter and hoping it would stay there till the next oil change.

[pbierre]

DIPSTICK TEST OF OIL ANTI-DRAIN-BACK VALVE for the P3 - 3.0T and 3.2

How can you tell if your oil filter housing is holding onto its oil volume when the engine is stopped?

If the anti-drain valve has failed, you'll be able to detect this condition using the dipstick.

Test with car on a level surface. Test by comparing the oil level with engine running to the drain-back level,
about 2 minutes after shutting off the engine. Here are the Normal and Abnormal outcomes:

Normal: The drain-back oil to the pan from the engine channels raises the dipstick level about 1/4" (6mm).

Failed anti-drainback valve: An additional 1/2" (12mm) drains back if the oil filter housing empties out. So, you'll see
3/4" (18mm) of level rise on the dipstick (as opposed to the normal expected 1/4" (6mm)).

What could be easier?

[pbierre]

DIPSTICK TEST (Engine running vs. 3-min. off)

For these Ford-Volvo engines with the oil filter accessed from up top, you can tell whether the oil filter housing's anti-drain-back valve is working by comparing the dipstick level 3 minutes apart:

Park on a level surface with engine running. Observe the dipstick. About 350ml of oil is circulating thru the channels lubricating and cooling the engine. Remember the dipstick level.

Shut off engine, and wait 3 min. for drain-back of oil to happen. Do your 2nd dipstick check.

NORMAL: The level should be about 1/4" (6mm) above the first reading.

FAULTY OR MISSING ANTI-DRAIN-BACK VALVE: The level will be up 3/4" (18mm), 3X higher than in the NORMAL case.
The 700 ml of oil that's supposed to be retained in the filter housing for a well-lubed engine startup has drained back down into the pan.

NOTE: This explains why the correct oil fill level should be based on engine running (and warmed up). If your
anti-drain-back valve has failed, the level will "look good" with the engine off, but will actually be 700 ml low with the engine running.

[Legger]

Hi, I came across this thread while reading various information on the forum. I conducted a test with a metal oil dipstick and wanted to ask if the situation I'm experiencing is normal.

I warmed up the engine and measured the oil level on the warm, running engine. Then I turned off the engine and about 3-4 minutes after shutting it down, I took another measurement. The oil level on the metal dipstick increased by about 4-5mm.

And it seems that the oil valve is okay, but when I measured the oil level 30 minutes after turning off the car, the oil level increased even more by another 10mm... Is this normal?

[pgill]

Legger,

Based on my experience your valve is starting to fail.

The next time that you change the oil and filter you should inspect the small rubber disc.



For a new valve I would expect the following (based on my experience with two Volvo Si6 Engines)

--- 3 to 4 minutes after shutdown and the oil level rises about 6 mm (this is expected as the oil settles in the pan)

--- >24 Hours for the level to rise significantly higher (you are getting to the higher level in 30 minutes)

For my 2010 S80 with the 3.2 that I purchased used in 2019 the Valve had failed but the disc was not completely missing. Someone had removed the bypass valve from the oil filter housing. I suspect that this was done to increase oil flow and oil pressure. The problem with this solution is that the oil was bypassing the filter. I replaced the oil filter cap so that the filter would actually filter the oil as intended. Not long after that I replaced the entire housing. And I have never seen any oil pressure related faults. Note: the variable valve timing Solenoid seems to be very sensitive to oil pressure and a faulty anti drain valve may lead to faults with the variable valve timing.


My recommendation is to replace your housing but I would keep driving the car while I waited for the part to arrive.

Alternatively you could wait for the day that the rubber disc comes completely off and when it does I would no longer use your S80 until you complete the repair.


Note: when the rubber disc completely detaches a significant amount of oil will flow directly back into the oil pan and the engine will not be getting the volume of oil it was design to receive.


The VOLVO Si6 is shared with LAND ROVER and if you are looking for a field expedient repair take a look at this post where I show how a T25 TORX KEY could be used

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31826-30.html


Good luck

Paul

[Legger]

pgill
Thank you for the comprehensive answer. I will try to replace the valve in my car with another one, matched from a different device, of course resistant to oil and temperature.... I already have 2 ideas where to get such a valve, and I want to check if it's possible to replace just the valve and not the whole housing and it will work (by the way, it's a pity that you can't buy just the spring with the valve in the service).

Of course, after installing the new, non-original valve, I will conduct tests for leaks.

One more thing that I'm wondering about is whether a higher compression force of the filter->spring->valve->filter housing assembly would help with sealing... for example, if we were to use a few millimeters thick washer under the filter that would additionally compress the spring with the valve... hmmm.

And one more thing is still bothering me... if the new valve starts leaking oil after 24-30 hours, does that mean it's not supposed to be completely sealed?

[ironbrick]

Hey Paul, I recall you wondering what rubber could be used that stands up to oil - how about the rubber from the oil filler cap O-ring?

[pgill]

The way you are thinking about this is 100% correct

Let’s be more specific about the requirements

1. The material must be capable of operating at high temperatures and low temperatures 0F - 300F

2. The material must not degrade or dissolve when in contact with hot motor oil

3. The replacement part should have a similar form factor to the original

The gasket will get you items 1 and 2 but not really item 3 unless you can come up with a way to modify it.

Don’t give up we will find a solution

Keep looking

Thanks

Paul