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240 ignition switch replacement

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
1986 - 1991 780
1990 - 1998 940
1990 - 1998 960
1997 - 1998 V90/S90

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Social_Joe
Posts: 2
Joined: 4 March 2010
Year and Model: 1986 Volvo 240
Location: Lawton, OK

240 ignition switch replacement

Post by Social_Joe »

Hi,

Longtime vintage car guy (mainly aircooled vw) newtime Volvo fan.

I'm looking at buying a very nice '86 240 that someone tried to steal.

They jammed a screwdriver in the lock and apparently pulled the shroud/yanked wires.

My question, I plan on fixing this properly, but to pick the car up, what would be the best method to get it started?

Go ahead and use a slide puller to yank the cylinder and reconnect the wires and use a screwdriver?

How complicated is the undercolumn/ignition wiring on this car?

Thanks for any info.

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billofdurham
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Post by billofdurham »

Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.

The electrical portion of the igntion switch is held in by two screws so is reasonably easy to detach.

If the wires have been pulled off the 2 x red/black go to pin 15 on the switch. Red goes to 30 (pos. from battery). Blue goes to 50 (starter motor). Yellow to X. White/red to S. and blue/yellow to the un-named contact.

I post this hoping you aren't the car thief trying to figure out why it didn't start. :)

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
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1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
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Social_Joe
Posts: 2
Joined: 4 March 2010
Year and Model: 1986 Volvo 240
Location: Lawton, OK

Post by Social_Joe »

Ha, no I'm definetely not the thief. I've got more info and pics.

The ignition is still locked and I have a used lock housing and cylinder with key on order, so if I tear it up it won't be a big deal.

I also have wiring diagrams/schematics for a 85 240, so that helps, ALOT.

Question is, what's the best/easiest way to go about disengaging the column lock?

1) Drill it out more/try to turn it with a screwdriver so I can get it to the "run" position, push the pin and get it out.

2) Liberally hack saw the mechanism apart so the locking pin can come out.

3) I'm not sure on 3.

Image

Image

Image

Thanks for any help.

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billofdurham
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Year and Model: 855, 1995
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Post by billofdurham »

Unfortunately your pictures haven't appeared.

If you have a slide puller and a replacement lock on order go ahead with that. It will be the easiest.

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

g1becks
Posts: 1
Joined: 14 August 2010
Year and Model: 240 GLT 1988
Location: London

Post by g1becks »

Hi there, I am having trouble configuring the wires on my ignition switch for my 240. I tried the arrangement you posted on the forum however my car is a little different- there is no red/white wire, I have a different one- yellow/black i think. This im sure is a european model so is probably slightly different to the US models. Do you have any advice? Also could you send me copies of the schematics. Many thanks

vertigo acid
Posts: 1
Joined: 28 August 2010
Year and Model: 1984 240 GL
Location: Portland, OR

Post by vertigo acid »

For anyone that stumbles upon this later looking for an answer, here's the scoop.

Essentially, to disengage the steering wheel lock, there is a lot of blood and sweat that will go into it. I recently did it on my '84. The problem lies in the fact that the whole ignition cylinder/lock piece is bolted on around the steering column with a 4 screws. Two of them are regular bolts, covered by a plate that is held on by the other two bolts. The outer two bolts are headless security bolts, and you need to either use a screw extractor, get lucky with vicegrips, or simply drill the tops off. They're hard steel, they're rounded, and it's an altogether completely unfun experience.

http://volvo2.homestead.com/Ignlock.html is a great guide with pictures

iaguilera
Posts: 17
Joined: 21 September 2021
Year and Model: Volvo 91 240
Location: 95076

Post by iaguilera »

My son bought a 91 Volvo 240 a few months ago, at first the key was a little hard to turn, today he started the car, and now the key is stuck in run position, can't shut it off, so I pulled the fuse for the pump out, and disconnected the batt, until I figure how to go about fixing it, any ideas?

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

iaguilera wrote: 22 Nov 2021, 21:54 My son bought a 91 Volvo 240 a few months ago, at first the key was a little hard to turn, today he started the car, and now the key is stuck in run position, can't shut it off, so I pulled the fuse for the pump out, and disconnected the batt, until I figure how to go about fixing it, any ideas?
It is probably the Shift interlock but could be the switch, gear shifter or cable. The Shift interlock is a cable that runs from the gear shifter to the ignition switch. When it is working correctly, it prevents removal of the key when the shifter in in any position other then park.

Shift interlock is a safety feature. It prevents roll away accidents due to not getting the transmission in park when you shut it down.

This will give you an idea where to start looking.
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
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iaguilera
Posts: 17
Joined: 21 September 2021
Year and Model: Volvo 91 240
Location: 95076

Post by iaguilera »

I watched that video, but this 91 240 does not have such cable, my initial thought was the tumbler, but now the locking mechanism seems like that could be the problem, and the other problem is I can't seem to find these new, where can one be purchased?

iaguilera
Posts: 17
Joined: 21 September 2021
Year and Model: Volvo 91 240
Location: 95076

Post by iaguilera »

It shifts into gear fine, and drives fine, just can't shut the engine off and pull the key out.

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