Oh boy, so, 2005 s60r, did camshaft seals, timing kit, using the Volvo Camshaft tool, car started right up and runs fine. But when I went to go take a peep at the timing belt as the car was running, the first thing I noticed was what looked like thew timing belt creeping towards the inner edge (towards the motor) to the point it was hanging over by a fingernails width, which obviously is still too much for comfort, so I shut the car off, loosened the timing tensioner, readjusted it (with allen key in slot, swing arm clockwise to around the 2 oclock position and then back CCW until the arm is center in the adjustment window, then tighten center bolt to spec). I then restarted the car and basically same thing. But then just this last time of trying to adjust and restart, the timing belt was legitimately doing an almost 'snake slither' type movement across the cam pulleys like it was way misaligned. My thoughts so far are possibly a poorly manufactured timing tensioner causing misalignment?
ALSO, one more thing I noticed which may or may not have part in the problem, both cam hubs seems to have a very slight in and out play. My other 06 s60r's cams do the same so I'm guessing it's somewhat normal.
Any input is appreciated! Thank you!
Timing belt LEGIT 'slithering' across cam gears
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renegade420
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- erikv11
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You've got the right idea I think, must be the belt path (e.g. tensioner) or the belt.
There were definitely some cases of this a few years back with P80 cars and Gates timing belts. Never heard of issues with Conti belts but who knows.
I might try running it with the old timing belt and the new tensioner, or the old tensioner and the new belt, i.e. swapping them one at a time only, to see if you can isolate either one of them as a problem. The old setup didn't slither, right? Not fun I know but it's one way to be sure.
There were definitely some cases of this a few years back with P80 cars and Gates timing belts. Never heard of issues with Conti belts but who knows.
I might try running it with the old timing belt and the new tensioner, or the old tensioner and the new belt, i.e. swapping them one at a time only, to see if you can isolate either one of them as a problem. The old setup didn't slither, right? Not fun I know but it's one way to be sure.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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renegade420
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It didn't do this prior (as I can recall), but like you said, I might have no other choice but to do some swap arounds. Unfortuantely this old belt is long gone now but what I can do is remove the timing belt and tensioner from my '06 (which is actually using the blue "performance" belt) and place it on the '05 (the one with the probs) and see if the problem persists. That is just a lot of no fun-ness. Have you every heard of a timing belt actually creeping all the way off the cam gears, which would, Im sure, in turn lead to ultimate doom?erikv11 wrote: ↑09 Dec 2021, 00:16 You've got the right idea I think, must be the belt path (e.g. tensioner) or the belt.
There were definitely some cases of this a few years back with P80 cars and Gates timing belts. Never heard of issues with Conti belts but who knows.
I might try running it with the old timing belt and the new tensioner, or the old tensioner and the new belt, i.e. swapping them one at a time only, to see if you can isolate either one of them as a problem. The old setup didn't slither, right? Not fun I know but it's one way to be sure.
- abscate
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Check your procedure against primary reference material
On the Late P80s with the mechanical tensioner you tighten the Allen key counterclockwise , tension past the marks , then return clockwise to center it according to ambient temperature.
I’m 90% sure P2s do the same. You then turn the belt by hand two turns and reset the tension again, then warmupcar, check a third time.
You might just be too loose on the tensioner.
On the Late P80s with the mechanical tensioner you tighten the Allen key counterclockwise , tension past the marks , then return clockwise to center it according to ambient temperature.
I’m 90% sure P2s do the same. You then turn the belt by hand two turns and reset the tension again, then warmupcar, check a third time.
You might just be too loose on the tensioner.
Empty Nester
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renegade420
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abscate wrote: ↑09 Dec 2021, 02:03 Check your procedure against primary reference material
On the Late P80s with the mechanical tensioner you tighten the Allen key counterclockwise , tension past the marks , then return clockwise to center it according to ambient temperature.
I’m 90% sure P2s do the same. You then turn the belt by hand two turns and reset the tension again, then warmupcar, check a third time.
You might just be too loose on the tensioner.
I will try the method you described to tighten tensioner (Going ccw this time) at the first sign of daylight at report results.
- abscate
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Ah, we have a chassis break based on engine number for this procedure. You need to find your engine number before you proceed
Tighten the timing belt:
There are two variants of the belt tensioner.
From engine number 3188688 the eccentric must be turned anticlockwise to tighten the belt.
From engine number 3188689 the eccentric must be turned clockwise to tension the belt.
turn the crankshaft clockwise carefully until the camshaft belt is tensioned. The belt should be tight between the intake camshaft pulley, idler pulley and crankshaft.
hold the center screw on the belt tensioner in position and turn the eccentric on the belt tensioner clockwise/anticlockwise, depending on the variant, until the tensioner's needle passes the marked position.
Then turn the eccentric back so that the indicator reaches the marked position in the center of the window.
Secure the eccentric and tighten the center screw to 20 Nm .
Check that the needle is in the correct position.
Tighten the timing belt:
There are two variants of the belt tensioner.
From engine number 3188688 the eccentric must be turned anticlockwise to tighten the belt.
From engine number 3188689 the eccentric must be turned clockwise to tension the belt.
turn the crankshaft clockwise carefully until the camshaft belt is tensioned. The belt should be tight between the intake camshaft pulley, idler pulley and crankshaft.
hold the center screw on the belt tensioner in position and turn the eccentric on the belt tensioner clockwise/anticlockwise, depending on the variant, until the tensioner's needle passes the marked position.
Then turn the eccentric back so that the indicator reaches the marked position in the center of the window.
Secure the eccentric and tighten the center screw to 20 Nm .
Check that the needle is in the correct position.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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- jonesg
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When my belt was walking it turned out to be the crank pulley was loose, center nut on crank went awol.
Had to replace the crank pulley as it was damaged from wobbling around.and the large nut.
Had to replace the crank pulley as it was damaged from wobbling around.and the large nut.
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renegade420
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Hey yall sorry for the late reply. So, this week, i did all that was mentioned above, I tried new tensioner, swapped the hubs from my 2006 as well as the belt, readjusted the idler, and still, the belt either slithers or creeps and hangs off the inner edge just a bit. Swapping the hubs and belt helped with the excessive slithering motion but still, it creeps to the edge to the point of hanging over slightly. Now, it does stay at that position as far as I know but dont feel comfortable enough to drive it like that. I was thinking another thing, I see I didnt mention that I also replaced the crank seal as well as the oil pump gasket. Could it be possible that when reinstalling the oil pump that it may somehow be accidentally seated at an angle? I would assume I would have a massive oil leak on startup if that were the case. Or maybe the crankshaft seal is seated flush? Im at a total loss right now.
- abscate
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Something is tipped, and anything replaced is prime suspect, yes.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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renegade420
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