Immobilizer question Topic is solved

[bmdubya1198]

Just scanned over the thread a bit, and while I may have missed some key details, what I gather is that you're having the starting issue that you stated in the OP, requiring a reset of that 15A fuse (or the battery possibly) before the car will start.
I had strange electrical issues, as abscate posted, but the only thing that I was ever able to find wrong was the fuse box B+ cable. After replacing that, the electrical issues that previously showed themselves (the cluster occasionally losing the tach, random warning lights turning on and off, etc.) disappeared. I still get a pulsing CEL when it's on and it has rained recently, but that's not enough of an issue to bother me since it's maybe a couple times a year and there are no codes now. That was a whole big issue... not worth getting into, basically chasing my tail for months on end

Anyway, start by ensuring the DIM is getting ample power and is properly grounded. Same for the ECU. Also check resistance on the CAN bus wires between the DIM and ECU. Of course, if you haven't already, ensure ALL of your battery cables are in good shape. The '99-'00 cars can be finicky.

As far as production date, your car is certainly a 2000. Seems weird that it would be a 2000 MY so early in '99, but I've seen crazier things. My '99 Miata I owned a couple years ago was built in 12/1997.

Here is a link to the 2000 P80 wiring diagram:

[abscate]

Did you get a tune done on thus car, or any evidence of one from a PO?

The only other big news is that the tuner figured out where he went wrong, on these newer engine management systems there's an additional "motor identification code" that if it isn't copied right it trips the immobilizer. So I gave him the month to figure that out, and since he doesn't have his remote loader software working yet I'm going to send the ECU in to him to have it re-re-flashed either this week or early next. He successfully got another dude working that was having the same problem I was, so confidence is high.

[subzerocarfanatic]

Did you get a tune done on thus car, or any evidence of one from a PO?

The only other big news is that the tuner figured out where he went wrong, on these newer engine management systems there's an additional "motor identification code" that if it isn't copied right it trips the immobilizer. So I gave him the month to figure that out, and since he doesn't have his remote loader software working yet I'm going to send the ECU in to him to have it re-re-flashed either this week or early next. He successfully got another dude working that was having the same problem I was, so confidence is high.

Only thing I have ever done was when I replaced the original ETM that went out when we first purchased the car. I bought a second hand Xemodex Built ETM online and when I installed it I hooked up the Vida Dice and scanned everything and if I remember correctly it updated the software on the ETM or ECU or something and it started right up, hard to remember, but other than that nothing since I have owned it.

[RickHaleParker]

Is this one in good shape? Searchable ... pages in order?

Here is a link to the 2000 P80 wiring diagram:

[bmdubya1198]

Is this one in good shape? Searchable ... pages in order?

Here is a link to the 2000 P80 wiring diagram:

Yes, it should be. The front contents page is linked, and it's in better order than others I've dealt with. I transferred it over to Mega to make it easier to download.
https://mega.nz/file/AqJyRBjY#KoeYnrMAZ ... gTQwYjToT8

[RickHaleParker]

Yes, it should be. The front contents page is linked, and it's in better order than others I've dealt with.

Index is intact but the pages have been converted to graphics, all with the same name, then scrambled. That is why it is 21MB. Graphics are unsearchable.

[bmdubya1198]

Index is intact but the pages have been converted to graphics, all with the same name, then scrambled. That is why it is 21MB. Graphics are unsearchable.

They can't make it too easy

[subzerocarfanatic]

I really do appreciate the help from everyone! abscate, you mentioned a sniffer of some sort, would the one I have be sufficient for what you are talking about? Power Probe ECT3000

[abscate]

I think that is an open/short circuit tester. A CANBUS sniffer actually detects and stores Hex commands over the CAN. You need to know if everthing is talking to everything on the car correctly.

I *think* a 1999 only uses CANBUS between ECU, ETM, DIM, and Lock controller 2/76

TCU? (Not sure,but you dont have one on your M56. Well, you do have one, but it is mounted above the driver seat.)

[RickHaleParker]

I really do appreciate the help from everyone! abscate, you mentioned a sniffer of some sort, would the one I have be sufficient for what you are talking about? Power Probe ECT3000

A CAN bus sniffer eavesdrops on the CAN bus messages. It is wiretapping. Of course you need to know the language to make sense of anything you see.

Power Probe ECT3000 is a signal tracer.

A signal tracer is a good tool for finding the exact location of electrical shorts and opens. Even if it is buried deep in the harness.
A signal tracer has two parts. (1) A low powered transmitter which you connect to the wire(s) to be checked. That turns the wire(s) into an antenna. (2) A receiver which is tuned to the transmitter. You run the tip of the receiver along the length of the wire to locate the defect. Because the transmitter is low power. when you go past the open or short the receiver will stop picking up the transmitter signal. That is now you know where the defect is.