Yes.02V70 wrote: ↑. Would the straightedge and feelers be used for this?
Head gasket failure?
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vtl
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- volvolugnut
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This is where I suggested starting with a carpenters framing square and feeler gauges. Perhaps $30 if you have to buy both. Minimum machine shop charge might be $50-100??? Start low tech and work up if needed. If the cheap tools show you have huge gaps then your head is likely junk. And you will still have a framing square and feeler gauges.
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
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And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
I don't like the idea of a carpenter's square for this work. It could lead you to the wrong conclusions.
You can get a precision straight edge for like $50 on Amazon. Plus a set of feelers for $20. Can't beat that really.
Checking for flatness is super easy. I've done it multiple times. The block could be warped- VERY unlikely, but possible if the car has been severely overheated.
Otherwise it's just the head. And they are usually fine too, unless massively overheated. Look for less than .003 inches of gap with a precision straightedge.
Then you can check your carpenter's square against the straightedge
Also, if you switch to a MLS head gasket, make sure to prep the surfaces to a low RA rating-Typically this corresponds to a 600 grit or finer north american rated sandpaper. Many machine shops will not have machines which can produce this fine a finish.
If you go the sandpaper route, make sure to have a FLAT block behind the sandpaper.
Hope that helps,
Chay
You can get a precision straight edge for like $50 on Amazon. Plus a set of feelers for $20. Can't beat that really.
Checking for flatness is super easy. I've done it multiple times. The block could be warped- VERY unlikely, but possible if the car has been severely overheated.
Otherwise it's just the head. And they are usually fine too, unless massively overheated. Look for less than .003 inches of gap with a precision straightedge.
Then you can check your carpenter's square against the straightedge
Also, if you switch to a MLS head gasket, make sure to prep the surfaces to a low RA rating-Typically this corresponds to a 600 grit or finer north american rated sandpaper. Many machine shops will not have machines which can produce this fine a finish.
If you go the sandpaper route, make sure to have a FLAT block behind the sandpaper.
Hope that helps,
Chay
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Correct on that. If it’s mire than 0.010 inches or so , you can have it thermally straightened. Clearwater did this for me on a head two years ago for $600
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A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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