Power Steering Hoses replacement

[abscate]

Those hoses are crying for oetiker clamps like lugs says. If you give me the OD of the hose I’ll send you some.

Crimp with a pair of dikes.

[enotslim]

Thanks for the crimp clamp suggestion. Sounds promising. I swore at Oetiker clamps when I had to remove them. Now I know why people use them. I guess you don't need a dedicated tool for application as long as you don't cut through using dikes?

Is there any way to add crimp clamps to an existing line without threading them on over an exposed "cut" end? My main concern is that disassembling the fuel line sleeve runs the risk of creating more leaks as I necessarily flex the fragile hydraulic line. I will be gentle if disassembly is needed but avoiding would be better.

Thanks again.

[abscate]

If you get genuine oetikers you can actually disengage the raised teeth from the catches and slip them over an installed line, then re-engage and crimp. If you cheat like me and use PeX fittings from a home store this won’t work. I want to say the genuine Volvo ones can be installed this way too, like the size for those small turbo cooling lines.

Swear not at Ye oetiker removal in the presence of Saint Dremel, ye shall conquer the Devil .

[enotslim]

Multiple Oetiker clamps from the belmetric.com site - which is right for this application?

|_ Oetiker 154 High Pressure->
|_ Oetiker 167 Stepless Ear
|_ Oetiker 163 Adjustable Ear
|_ Oetiker 168 LOW Stepless

[enotslim]

If you get genuine oetikers you can actually disengage the raised teeth from the catches and slip them over an installed line, then re-engage and crimp.

Any instructions for doing this? I haven't figured it out or found instructions after lots of looking.

Tried the clamps below to avoid dismantling the fuel line patch. Still a small leak. PS hydraulics run at ~1,000 psi. Given this high pressure is my approach hopelessly doomed?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040CU0 ... asin_title

Thanks.

[volvolugnut]

If you get genuine oetikers you can actually disengage the raised teeth from the catches and slip them over an installed line, then re-engage and crimp.

Any instructions for doing this? I haven't figured it out or found instructions after lots of looking.

Tried the clamps below to avoid dismantling the fuel line patch. Still a small leak. PS hydraulics run at ~1,000 psi. Given this high pressure is my approach hopelessly doomed?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040CU0 ... asin_title

Thanks.

My opinion is the mentioned clamp does not have much chance of sealing with this high of pressure. These clamps may be good to 250 PSI but not 1000 PSI.
volvolugnut

[abscate]

Yeah, at 1000 psi that needs a swage joint

[volvolugnut]

To remove the oetiker clamps use a very small (1/8 inch or smaller) flat blade screwdriver. Pry the hole up and over the hook/tooth. Do not stab yourself while pushing and prying. Alter releasing the clamp tension, you can unfasten the hook and open the clamp for removal.
With a crimped loop clamp, you can also use the very small screwdriver to pry the loop open and release the tension on the clamp.
volvolugnut

[enotslim]

Yeah, at 1000 psi that needs a swage joint

Would a swage joint then require brazing or solder? Dilating the existing line might fracture the metal. Prepping the external surface of the existing line to braze or solder well to a dilated piece might be a problem. How about using two compression joints to replace the leaking portion of the hydraulic line by a length of new aluminum tubing? This would require (easier?) cleaning/prepping the ends of the remaining hydraulic line that are created by removing the leaking portion but the same is true for the clamped fuel line I've been trying to use. I think the irregular external surface of the corroded hydraulic line is one likely reason the clamps are leaking.

[cn90]

Re high-pressure PS Hose...

Has anyone here tried local hydraulic shop to rebuild, shops where farmers use to rebuild their hoses?