What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

[MoVolvos]

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As mentioned before, didn't look into a leak on the 03 S80 T6 as my son had the car. When I got to it there was a large of amount of good size metal bits in the transmission pan. Complete flush and new filter and it's driveable only in manual mode.

Even then have to baby it through shifts, grades and inclines in the road or else feel revs sends it into Limp Mode. Ordered some 50W transmission fluid and will mix with existing to see if it will make it more driveable as he doesn't like the 03 Odyssey though not complaining.

Have used the 714 20W for years but haven't had a trouble transmission lately so forgot about it. Purchased last jug of 50W as it's little use and never on my radar till I saw it on Paragons website. The use of 20W cured a few transmissions besides saving others.

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https://www.paragon-products.com/Search ... co&Submit=

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https://www.swepcobp.com/sites/default/ ... j11005.pdf

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[MoVolvos]

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Will update after adding the 50W transmission Fluid.

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=99184

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Swepco 714 - 306.jpg (22.69 KiB) Viewed 1146 times

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[abscate]

Rolled down to NYC with my favourite Husky Shep, took the Taconic
She gets so excited at car rides because she knows her furry friends are at the end

[BlackBart]

She's a good girl.

[Krons]

The 2008 got new plugs, air filter and motor mounts. I'm tired...but man this car runs incredible after the PCV, plugs, fuel filter and air filter. A strong runner!

Midway through the plugs:

Still new headlights to put on it and cabin air filter, but that'll be another day. Only other new thing since the shop did the PCV is a squeak on the serpentine belt...tried belt dressing but still there. May be time for a new belt. Power steering fluid looks crummy too...

[Skymongrel]

Early this summer my windsurfer mast took out my radio! Today I replaced it with a used HU-650 from Ebay. I have a 2006 XC70 and went to the Volvo site for a radio code. I went back and forth with them and finally got the code. They require part number, vin number and model number.

Installed the radio and .....didn't need a CODE! Duh!

As a bonus the replacement radio has a CD in the radio from the previous owner!

[BlackBart]

Did you shove it in the hatchback and bash the dash? I sometimes do that with lumber.

[BlackBart]

What I did to my P2 today was to charge it overnight to save the almost new battery. Mrs BB came home, put it in the garage (GARE-rawzh for all the Brits), left it in gear, shut it off, left the key in it, and unloaded the stuff. Three hours later on the way to bookclub, the keys are missing, and lo, the battery is nearly dead, 10.5V. I believe that action leaves all the dash and console lights on.

I love her anyway.

[Blacklab467]

I ordered up some new GKN Loebro axles for the XC. A little history; my originals failed at 240,000 Kms, I then tried 2 sets of Cardone China specials with bad results (vibration right out of the box), then got a nice set of used originals (GKN) from the auto wreckers that have been working well for the last 55,000 Kms. A couple months ago I started to notice a very slight vibration at 60Mph under acceleration, it has gotten progressively worse such that now the car is essentially undriveable and vibrates horribly at almost all speeds under acceleration. Monday I will have my shipment and brand new CV axles, I can hardly wait! I'll do a DIY tutorial on changing them and post it in the forum, needless to say I've become pretty proficient with this job of changing axles!

[- Pete -]

I ordered up some new GKN Loebro axles for the XC. A little history; my originals failed at 240,000 Kms, I then tried 2 sets of Cardone China specials with bad results (vibration right out of the box), then got a nice set of used originals (GKN) from the auto wreckers that have been working well for the last 55,000 Kms. A couple months ago I started to notice a very slight vibration at 60Mph under acceleration, it has gotten progressively worse such that now the car is essentially undriveable and vibrates horribly at almost all speeds under acceleration. Monday I will have my shipment and brand new CV axles, I can hardly wait! I'll do a DIY tutorial on changing them and post it in the forum, needless to say I've become pretty proficient with this job of changing axles!

Way to go man!
I just did a set of these also (2nd new GKN/Lobro set on my 311k mile XC70). This time I ordered through FCP so in another 80-100k miles the next set will be “pre-paid”.

Question for you: I’m sure by now your drivers side pops out nicely (as I’m sure you probably grease the heck out of all mating surfaces). What tool are you using to pop it out?
My first few times I just used a pair of wonder bars (evenly spaced). Recently I got an axle popper that achieves the same thing in 1 tool. Works good & zero frustration with 1 or the other wonder bar falling out.

Steck Manufacturing 71410 Axle Popper Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IQMR8U/re ... UTF8&psc=1

One suggestion: I would HIGHLY recommend you inspect your engine mounts; all 5, but I’m talking primarily about the large, circular hydraulic mounts and the odd shaped one by the crank pulley. If you see any rust colored “seepage” around those hydraulic mounts you need to replace them. These, when failed, absolutely contribute to a premature failure of CV axles in XC’s. A good test is with a jack under the oil pan (and a 2x4 between the jack & pan). Slowly lift up the engine, slowly let it down. I do it when I’m underneath the car to hear better. If you hear any gurgling sounds (or see any rusty colored stains nearby to them), one or both of them have split & let out their contents. Once this happens, the entire engine is able to rock, shake & move in a way it wasn’t designed to, which in turn plays a role in your CV axles early demise.

An example of this is on my last set of GKN’s which failed at 80k miles. They should certainly be good for about double that, if not a shade more. Years ago, sometime after I’d replaced the originals with a new set of GKN’s, I’d noticed a rusty discoloration around the area of my hydraulic mounts. The one by the turbo isn’t easy to see, but the one below the intake plenum is. I figured the rusty colored stain was from an unfortunate raccoon I sort of unintentionally scalped. Well I’ll be darned if that blood didn’t come off, no matter what type of cleaner I used on it. It didn’t click until much much later (a year or so ago) that the rusty colored stain was from my split engine mount bleeding out.

Anyhow, that replacement set of CV’s went 80k miles by the time I noticed the familiar “under load” vibration. I figured “there’s no way those are bad already, makes sense to change the engine mounts. A lot cheaper than CV axles & the car is probably due for them anyhow.” Changed both hydraulic mounts & the mount by the crank pulley & the vibration changed quite dramatically, but still palpable. I couldn’t live with the “under load” vibration so I put in another set of new GKN’s & as you can about imagine, all vibes are gone.

Point is, worn out hydraulic mounts let the engine shake & oscillate in an unnatural manner. Because of that, you will get pitting (and then cratering) where your CV rollers make contact with their cups & then a premature need for replacements.