The Bosch Alternator Clutch Pulley discussion

[pgill]

CN90,

This is a very good discussion.

Thanks for starting the thread.

If you want to look up the part number for your over drive pulley you can use this link.

https://aftermarket.schaeffler.com/en/c ... pare-parts

And if you want to see the tool kit and learn about the testing you can use this link.

https://api-aftermarket.schaeffler.de/m ... 2FhMDgwOTc


Note: my overdrive pulleys are

Alternator Pulley: Left-Handed thread

AC / Power Steering and Water Pump: Right-Handed Thread

so I modified the picture and description to show how the pulley works if it is for a left handed thread.
The picture shows how the pulley is tested according to the people that make the pulley.
Microsoft Paint is very useful for editing like this

Left Handed.jpg (135.73 KiB) Viewed 1106 times

Edit: Here is the original picture for the Right Handed Pulley

Take care

Paul

PS the picture that you posted with the Orange Bar applying Clockwise torque and it is implied that the breaker bar needs to be held steady or turned counter clockwise. To quote Ed China "Simple but not easy". Don't forget that you also need to push down on the T50 so that it doesn't slip. And be ready to apply 100 Ft * Lbs. to the orange bar.

[cn90]

I used to fix bicycles as a teenager.

The Bosch alternator OAD pulley is basically the bicycle free-wheel design and that is all.
You can see in this video how the bicycle sprocket goes in (it is right-hand thread in a bicycle bc when you pedal it, it tightens the sprocket further)...

[vtl]

If you have a bad luck doing this in car - remove the fan shroud and disconnect the intercooler -> throttle pipe. Now you have plenty of space to move the alternator to the driver side and pull it out. Protect the radiator with a piece of cardboard. Adds maybe 10 minutes of work, but makes it lot easier.

In fact, I would rebuilt the alternator at the same time, it's not difficult at all.

[regent]

It does make a lot of sense to rebuild the gen when the clutch pulley dies. Unfortunately I could not find a good reliable kit for mine so I just changed the pulley. This was on my 2006 S60 n/a at 180kMi a few years back, just before it got decommissioned.

The rebuilt alts on eBay and such have very attractive prices but poor quality bearings so no go

[vtl]

Right, I was hunting for bearings. They are low friction, high(er) temp, high speed bearings. Sort of hard to source, had to order overseas. The cost of just 2 bearings was higher than for those $100ish rebuilt alternators.

In return, the alternator works super-plush. So plush that I could do anything but rebuild the alternator in wife's 5 y.o. XC60 with low 40k miles on the odo. The alternator in this "luxury" car was whining on every cold morning from zero miles, being brand new. Like everything else in these post-Volvo Volvos, the alternator is 30% smaller/lighter than ours; the bearings balls are squarish, made in not where you hope them to be made, very little grease; voltage regulator comes with a minimal length brushes, just enough to cover warranty miles; etc. Oh, and the main reason for rebuild was its INA clutch that froze. INA is horrible these days. Nothing, but problems.

Alternator rebuild is expensive when done right, but the result will serve you the next 10 years without hassles.

[cn90]

- Where to find new Bosch alternator these days?

- For those who want to rebuild the alternators (do this only if you have < 150K bc at 200K, the copper rings on the shaft usually are worn):

1. Google Bosch F-00M-145-279, about $50 online.

2. If you find the copper rings, please post.

3. The 2 bearings: search for proper sizes.
My personal preference is Koyo or NTN (made in Japan).
Stay away from Chinese bearings...

[vtl]

Ebay has plenty of slip rings for Bosch alternators, for example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/183634858662

[abscate]

New ones for our cars aren’t happening. My guy in Schenectady will rebuild for $100 and give you back your OE stuff of quality if you do it before you torch it.

[nickbw898]

Just take the radiator shroud fan unit out 10 min job one harness connection and two bolts unclip harness across top - remove the two hose clips and intercooler hose - plenty of room - two bottom bolts of alternator are shared with zircon compressor remove alternator downwards (air dam is two clips and two 10mm bolts in middle of radiator where gap is max.

[cn90]

Just look at an alternator from 2004 S60 with 122K miles, the pulley coupler mechanism is seized. So it is basically a solid pulley (similar to P80 1983-1998 S70 design, which is solid pulley).

I wonder for those with seized pulley, any symptoms at all?