Control arm replacement....Manufacturers?

[Navy]

Dear All, Thanks again for all the help in sorting the small issues I have.
My last MOT flagged slight play in the nearside (passenger in uk) control arm ball joint. I have no idea which make/manufacturer is currently on my car.
I have researched oem which can be either Lemforder or Febi/Bilstein or maybe others. There seems to be lots a varying opinions about which brand is best and although Lemforder sell the more expensive arms opinions differ as to the quality of the rubber.
Here in the uk I can source a Lemforder control arm for about £95.00 or a Febi/Bilstein for about £45.00. I average less than 2000 miles per year.
My concern is shall I replace both left and right (good practice) or just the one side even if the left and right have different manufacturers.
Is there a easy way to find which manufacturer control arm I have installed. I have crawled under but struggle to see much apart from rust.
I know this topic has been exhausted over the years but any current advice (2022) will be helpful.
Many thanks
Andre
I have no idea why the image is upside down. Sorry!!

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[abscate]

You can get 5 years out of the Febi easily, so save your sterling. Just replace the bad one, no need to do both

[scot850]

The reason for all the debate is the quality of rubber is constantly changing. I have had units last as short as 6 months on a 8000 mile per year car and others that last for many years.

There are fans of Febi products but I tend to find them hit or miss depending where it is actually made.

Lemforder used to be the OE supplier but who knows who it is these days. As the ball joints are not replaceable after about 1994 (the original control arms were aluminum and had replaceable ball-joints) it seldom makes sense to replace only the bushes as sure as fate just removing the unit is is guaranteed the ball-joint will fail shortly afterward.

Having said all that, with the mileage you use annually, it depends on how long you plan to keep the car. Personally I would go with Lemforder or possibly TRW if they make one (I believe they now own Lemforder).

Good practice is to replace in pairs unless you may know of the other one being done recently. I would then have an alignment done although some may argue you don't need it. I do it as a matter of course as you can't guarantee everything went back in the same position or that all brands of parts are made exactly the same size.

Neil.

[rguzz]

Your car will "feel" better, ride better if you replace both...Lemforder probably best, Febi now priced so low they are suspect for quality. I just replaced mine as a pair and I will say the difference is apparent for sure, car seems to ride higher as well but who knows. Yours look like a mess if I may say so. Time for them to go! BTW tighten the bolts before lowering the car as you likely know.

[FireFox31]

Consider buying spare nuts and bolts for the bottom of the steering knuckle which holds the ball joint. On a New England car with not too much rust, where every other bolt removed well, those steering knuckle bolts snapped right off. I had to use a sledge hammer and a punch to remove them, applying far more force than I liked to.

[Navy]

Many thanks to everyone for the replies.

BTW tighten the bolts before lowering the car as you likely know.

I am probably mistaken but I recall reading the bolts should be tightened once the car is on the ground and level. I may be wrong though. Although, Would not the rubber bushings be stressed if tightened before lowering?

My car is 28 years old and has served me well and replacing both with Febi/Bilstein makes more financial sense. It will be half the price of Lemforder and as I read, no real guarantee Lemforder will be the better product. I am trying to keep the old girl going and plan to do the labour myself but I am always aware one major component failure may be the end....my post on power stage and heater problems came pretty close.

Thank again for all the help and information
Andre

[abscate]

New bolts required by Volvo, especially locknut on the balljoint. In wet climates. I replace all hardware.

Correct about tightening everything with the wheel inthe loaded position. You can just jack the the wheel up to do this.

[scot850]

Yup, inner bolts should be tightened with a load on them or you risk damaging the new bushes.

Volvo recommend replacing the bolts. I don't replace the inners unless badly rusted, but I always replace the ball-joint one. Heard too many stories of a re-used bolt breaking!

Neil.

[rguzz]

I tighten the bolts when the car is lowered enough so that the control arms are roughly parallel to the ground. Wheels off, on jacks. So yes, there is a load on them. I find it too hard to fit and work under there with the car itself fully lowered and on the ground. Hope that's right.

[Navy]

Many thanks again for all the information.

Rguzz, thanks for the clarification.

I will go with the Febi/Bilstein on both sides.

Thank you all for the help
Kind regards
Andre