What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

[Krons]

A couple small jobs on the 08 2.5T today.

Replaced the plastic piece to left of driver seat surrounding power seat switchblock, was cracked from previous owner...easy 15 minute job and part was only $30.

Replaced cabin air filter, was certainly due based on condition. A bit frustrating the Mahle LA 54 I got from FCPEuro was the wrong part. While it is the 1" version mine is square'ish with foam surrounding...no plastic like the LA 54. Returns normally would be on me so may cost as much to return as the $16 I paid. Grabbed a correct charcoal version at Carquest for $24 to get the job over with.

[abscate]

A couple small jobs on the 08 2.5T today.

Replaced the plastic piece to left of driver seat surrounding power seat switchblock, was cracked from previous owner...easy 15 minute job and part was only $30.

Replaced cabin air filter, was certainly due based on condition. A bit frustrating the Mahle LA 54 I got from FCPEuro was the wrong part. While it is the 1" version mine is square'ish with foam surrounding...no plastic like the LA 54. Returns normally would be on me so may cost as much to return as the $16 I paid. Grabbed a correct charcoal version at Carquest for $24 to get the job over with.

There are two versions of filter on P2 s. You snap the plastic part out of the housing yo fit the larger filter You can adjust the air flow in VIDA For the thicker filter but you won’t need to do that in climate friendly ON

viewtopic.php?t=70538&start=10

[Krons]

There are two versions of filter on P2 s. You snap the plastic part out of the housing yo fit the larger filter You can adjust the air flow in VIDA For the thicker filter but you won’t need to do that in climate friendly ON

viewtopic.php?t=70538&start=10

There have to be at least three versions. My car has a 1" foam edged filter. Similar to Corteco 30630752 on FCP. The Mahle LA54 is 1" plastic framed edge. The two aren't compatible. Maybe I have this wrong...simply what I ran into, FCP offers both 1" versions.

Good to know conversion to 1.5" is possible if someone wanted to. I noticed there were two slots when taking the cover off.

[gnalan]

Finally put my battery on a charger, and was able to bring it back to normal voltage after it was sitting for the last 8 months (even though I've taken it for a few drives in the last week or so, but with a weak battery that barely had enough power to keep the car running). Started it up, and ran nice and smooth, witn no more rough idle or stumbling to try and stay running.

[lawrencium265]

Got the alignment done at a shop yesterday after replacing the subframe bushings and inner tie rod ends.

I explained everything to the shop and he said it was "very alignable" the printout shows that he adjusted front toe on both sides, and rear toe on one side. Everything is even from side to side. Thrust angle is .1 or basically zero everything is well within factory specs.The car drives straight down the road no problem. They only charged me $80, which I thought was pretty cheap, I forgot to ask how much it would cost. I would probably recommend this shop.

That being said, I'm pretty disappointed with how this car is driving right now. The front camber is -.9 which is pretty high if we consider I do mostly highway driving, rear is pretty negative as well -.7 or something probably due to having a saggy old booty. Caster is 4.1° which is just in spec, I think if it had more the car would feel better.

The car feels very twitchy now from before I worked on it. High speed cornering does not feel great either. This could be a factor of aged struts or at least a combination of that and alignment.

Overall I think the problem is that Volvo allowed for too much variance in the alignment specs.

I also have a shudder/vibration when accelerating that wasn't present before the work. I replaced the engine mounts and the right side was completely collapsed. When I search this issue the posts say that it's probably the right side axle.

I think that now that the drivetrain is sitting more level and not tilting the axle is at more of an angle and was already worn. I also wonder if the extra negative camber is also making the issue worse.

Basically like everything with this car, I fix one thing and find five other problems.

[BlackBart]

Less than 1 degree negative camber doesn’t seem bad. What’s the spec?
Seems like 2 or 3 starts to eat tires.

[lawrencium265]

Less than 1 degree negative camber doesn’t seem bad. What’s the spec?
Seems like 2 or 3 starts to eat tires.

The ideal spec is Front -.3 Rear +.3, I'm seeing threads from years ago where these had crazy negative camber when new. I also found a thread where someone had almost identical measurements to mine with the exact same concerns. I agree that it won't affect tire wear that much, but combined with the rear also being negative I can't just rotate to even things out, so the inside of the tire is going to wear out faster than the rest of the tire, hopefully it's negligible.

[Blacklab467]

You might want to take a real good look at the lower control arms for wear and soft bushings, also the strut spring seats. These items can cause things to move around in the front during cornering for example if worn. I would concur almost 100% that the right CV shaft is causing your acceleration vibration, I just went through this on my car for the second time!
It sounds like you're well on your way to having a really nice driver! I've had to address all of the items you've mentioned in your posts also, including the Haldex and the Bevel gear. These cars are so worth it when you get all the bugs sorted out, but with a 20 year old car........there's always going to be something! Treat it like a hobby, that's what I do.

[lawrencium265]

You might want to take a real good look at the lower control arms for wear and soft bushings, also the strut spring seats. These items can cause things to move around in the front during cornering for example if worn. I would concur almost 100% that the right CV shaft is causing your acceleration vibration, I just went through this on my car for the second time!
It sounds like you're well on your way to having a really nice driver! I've had to address all of the items you've mentioned in your posts also, including the Haldex and the Bevel gear. These cars are so worth it when you get all the bugs sorted out, but with a 20 year old car........there's always going to be something! Treat it like a hobby, that's what I do.

I am actually planning on doing the lower control arm bushings, and had attempted to replace them before but couldn't find a way to press out the horizontal front bushings with what I had at the time. I have come up with a new plan of attack to get it done though.

The upper spring seats were one of the first things to get replaced as they were completely ripped and I didn't want a hole in the hood.

There is a way to adjust caster on these cars (I think) they make ovalized subframe bushings, in fact one of the factory ones I removed was like this.

On the left side of my car there are two posts protruding from the body that align the subframe bushing and on the right side it's only the bolt going through. So with the ovalized bushings I should be able to push the subframe forward ~1/2" which should put me right in at the factory 5° caster if my guestimated calculations are correct. This also shouldn't affect the other alignment parameters if I only move it forward.

I am also thinking more and more that the struts are just very worn as well. The car starts to feel floaty on the highway at times. Not all the time and it doesn't feel bouncy when driving over normal bumps.

Of course those things will have to wait, my main goals are safety and reliability since I need this to get to work and I have a family to consider as well.

[Krons]

Just hit 140,000 miles yesterday on the 2008. Running well, my 150+ mile run at around 65mph averaged 30mpg by my calculator. Was excited near home to see $3.59/gal so stopped to fill up.